Day 5: Jedediah Sew-Along | Sewing the inseams
Today we will be sewing our flat fell inseams. It'll be a nice, easy, and short day since we've already perfected our flat fell seams on the back yoke!
Please note: Within newer versions of the Jedediah instruction booklet you are instructed to sew the flat fell inseams prior to sewing the outseams - this is because many people find flat fell seams require a bit of careful sewing! It is easier to sew the flat fell seams first when you can spread the pant legs flat. After finishing your inseam you can add binding to the outseam as the instruction booklet suggests. The sew along shows you how to sew the outseams first and the inseams last - both ways are perfectly acceptable and you can choose which order works best for. Which type of seam feels easier to you? Flat fell or bound seam? Sew the difficult one first and the easier one second!
The sew-along is different from the instruction booklet because I changed the instruction booklet after the sew-along took place (based on customer feedback). The majority of you find flat fell seams to be a little more difficult than bound seams...thanks to everyone who gave their feedback! It is so helpful to me and to all menswear sewists! Ok, ready to get back to the sew-along?
First, I've started by pinning the inseams together with the WRONG sides together.
I sewed this seam at 5/8" (you may need to ease a little bit as you sew so that the hem ends up even) and then carefully trimmed the seam on the Pants Back to 1/4". Don't catch the other half of the seam (the one belonging to the Pants Front) when you are trimming!
I've pressed the seam open (this will ensure your flat fell seam is crisp and even when it is done).
Next, I've pressed the seam entirely to one side (with the narrow seam allowance laying on top).
And here comes the fiddly bit: I've folded the wide seam allowance in towards the narrow seam allowance so that the two raw edges meet in the middle. To do this I press as I go...keeping my fingers folding the seam allowances with one hand and following along with the iron with the other hand.
I've then flipped this pressed seam allowance package over to the other side of the seam so that all the raw edges are enclosed and then I've pinned in place (use lots of pins so your careful pressing doesn't become a bit wonky!)
Now I've sewn 1/8" away from the loose edge, permanently enclosing the raw edges and creating a lovely (and strong!) flat fell seam. Sewing along the pant legs is a bit tricky because they form a narrow tube (though it's easier with shorts than pants!) but believe me, it's possible...and you can do it if you take it slow and steady!
And just like that, we've sewn our RTW worthy flat fell inseams and our shorts are beginning to look like shorts! Now that you're in the groove of things this week, we are ready to tackle the fly tomorrow! Stay tuned because we have worked SUPER hard on this next post and think it will fully demystify the previously oft-dreaded fly sewing process. I can't wait to show you what we've done!