Day 1 - Cutting out Your Fabric (Jedediah Shorts Sew-along)
To even further prevent possible fabric shifting (can you tell I really hate twisty pant legs?) I like to pin around the outside of the pattern through both layers of fabric so that the only thing I have to worry about while tracing is creating a smooth line.
Once I've traced the entire outline and the markings, I set the paper pattern piece aside. In the photo below you can see how I transfer notches using chalk. To transfer the two notches at the top of the fly facing I simply drew a line outwards (away from the pattern piece) exactly where the notch was on the paper pattern. When the paper pattern was removed I extended the chalk line down into the pattern piece for 1/2". That way I don't have to cut into the paper pattern at each notch or awkwardly fold up the paper to draw the little notch line.
I also wrote a big, clear "X" at the zipper placement dot by sticking a pin up through the fabric and the pattern piece, removing the paper pattern piece and then lining up the chalk "X" so that it's center is where the pin is coming up through the layers. Then I removed the pin and Voila my zipper dot is marked!
Make sure to transfer all notches and markings to the other side of the folded fabric too so that you will have them when you cut out and separate the two pant legs (and other pattern pieces). I tend to forget this step and it is frustrating and time consuming to have to line up the paper pattern piece with the unmarked fabric piece to transfer the markings when I am in the middle of sewing the garment.
Now, if you were using Option #1, simply cut along the chalk outline through both layers of fabric. There is no need to cut the notches (and it is best not to if you are planning to follow along with the sew-along and use flat fell seams - the whole seam allowance is needed to make these).
If you are cutting out your pattern using Option #2, line up your grain lines using the measuring trick already mentioned and then pin the pattern pieces down through both layers of fabric. Since the fabric I am using is a mid-weight Denim with a grippy texture, I didn't need to use very many pins. Also, the stiffness of the pattern paper (since it was printed and taped together from a PDF) makes it sit nice and flat without the crinkles and folds I find tissue paper to be prone to.
And then I cut out my pattern pieces, carefully avoiding the paper pattern (since I love my nice sharp new scissors so much and would hate to dull them on pins and paper!).
When I'm choosing to pin rather than use chalk, I often like to stick to pins to transfer my markings as well. This is the process I mentioned when I discussed transferring the zipper placement dot during Option #1, this time used to transfer all markings, including the pocket placement dots.
I stick a pin down through the center of the dot that corresponds to the size I am using, through the paper and both layers of fabric.
I then turn the piece over so I can see the tips of all the pins sticking up.
I place a pin going in the opposite direction exactly where I had stuck in the first set of pins.
I then pull away the paper pattern from the fabric, like so:
This removes the first set of pins I placed so I pick them out of the paper and stick them back in through both fabric layers.
Then I pull apart the fabric layers so a set of pins stays with each layer, the head staying on the wrong side of the fabric and the sharp tips on the right side.
I leave the pins in as I sew and use them as 'markers' when I reach the step I need them for in the sewing process. I know this process of pinning instead of marking seems long repetitive but I actually find it very fast and easy as my pins are already on hand and I don't have to refresh my markings as I often have to with chalk (as they wear off when the fabric is handled). I also like how the pins serve as a quick reminder as to which is the wrong and right side of the fabric.
As for the pros and cons of Option #1 and Option #2 - here is my analysis:
Option #1: Chalk
Pros: Chalk (when using the Clover tool) is extremely precise and, since the fabric is not lifted very often from the tracing surface, does not lead to the fabric shifting. It is easy to cut exactly on the inside of the chalk mark so that the fabric piece does not end up slightly bigger than the paper pattern piece. Chalk is a fast and easy way to mark notches.
Cons: My chalk tends to rub off quickly and I often don't notice this is the case until the marking is completely gone (this can get awkward if I am about to insert a zipper and no longer have a zipper placement notch! Chalk also adds a little extra time because tracing tends to take me a bit longer than pinning.
Option #2: Pinning
Pros: Since I already have pins on hand (all the time) I don't have to rummage around for my chalk...which I always seem to lose :P It is very fast and I often like to leave my pieces pinned to the pattern pieces so it saves time later on in the sewing process too because I don't have to examine the stray pieces of fabric trying to figure out which piece they are and which is the right and wrong side.
Cons: It is less accurate because the fabric can shift slightly when being pinned and also later when cutting (with not chalk outline to ensure I cut correctly despite shifting). The fabric pieces could potentially end up slightly bigger than the paper piece...especially if I'm very anxious not to cut paper with my new scissors!
Now that we've analyzed these two cutting out processes, choose the one you like best to cut out your fabric pieces from your self fabric and don't forget to cut out the necessary interfacing and pocket lining using the same process.
You will need:
- 2 Front (shorts length or pants length depending on which variation you've chosen)
- 2 Back (shorts length or pants length depending on which variation you've chosen)
- 2 Pocket Facing 1
- 2 Pocket Facing 2
- 2 Back Pocket
- 2 Back Yoke
- 1 Waistband
- 2 Zipper Shield
- 3 Belt Loops
- 1 Waistband
- 1 Zipper Shield
- 2 Pocket Lining