Tailored Peacoat Series: #1
Here is the posting schedule:
Day #1 - Tuesday, March 18th: Prepare Pattern, Cut Fabric, Mark Seam Lines
Day #2 - Wednesday, March 19th: Adjust Pockets, Apply Canvas and Interfacing
Day #3 - Thursday, March 20th: Sewing the Facing and Lining
Day #4 - Friday, March 21st: Sewing the Main Body Seams and Adding Shoulder Pads
Day #5 - Saturday, March 22nd: Creating the Collar
Day # 6 - Sunday, March 22nd: Inserting the Sleeves
Day #7: - Monday, March 23rd: The Finishing TouchesOnce this sew-along is over, these posts will be available in the "Sew-Along" drop down on our website. I am by no means a skilled and practised tailor. Fortunately, Dana, one of our very skilled pattern testers, is! She has put a huge amount of work into documenting her Goldstream Peacoat sewing process and, you can see by the beautifully crisp results, that all her efforts paid off. I hope that you will be able to benefit from her kind offer to share her knowledge. She has done an excellent job of thoroughly explaining each step she took. Thank you so much for doing this Dana and welcome to the Thread Theory blog! [caption id="attachment_2149" align="aligncenter" width="550"] Dana's beautifully tailored peacoat modelled by Travis.[/caption] Now, without further ado, here is Dana with her week long tailoring series: I’m Dana, and I’ve been doing theatrical costuming for 11 years. I’ve always loved futzy handwork, and tailoring is a great way to indulge in it. The theater I work for has some amazing tailors, and I’ve learned so much about menswear and construction from them. While the patterns we work with are custom drafted, there are lots of tailoring techniques that translate to commercial patterns. Basic tips to begin creating a tailored Goldstream Peacoat: Two things you do much more of in tailoring are basting and pressing.
- I baste in white thread or a color that matches my fabric.
- Pressing with lots of steam will help you shape a coat beyond what seams and interfacing could ever do. Since you will use so much heat and steam, it’s important to pre-shrink, or at least steam press, your fabric, lining, and all interfacings and tapes you will use.
- Optional - Adjusting the Seam Allowances: The first thing I did was remark the pattern pieces to have ¼” seam allowance, except at the front edge, neckline, and hems. I cut all the seam allowance off of those. Using ¼” seam allowance is a personal preference, although it really comes in handy when setting sleeves. It is very helpful to know where the stitch lines for the front edge, neck, and hems are, though.
- Necessary - Finding the Roll Line: You do need to figure out where the roll line is on the coat front (Definition: The roll line is where the collar/lapel folds over on a garment) . The roll line starts at the top button, and is angled towards the neck, coming about 1/2” away from the neck seam line at the shoulder.