Tailored Peacoat Series: #2
Day #2 – Wednesday, March 19th: Adjust Pockets, Apply Canvas and Interfacing
Day #3 – Thursday, March 20th: Sewing the Facing and Lining
Day #4 – Friday, March 21st: Sewing the Main Body Seams and Adding Shoulder Pads
Day #5 – Saturday, March 22nd: Creating the Collar
Day # 6 – Sunday, March 22nd: Inserting the Sleeves
Day #7: – Monday, March 23rd: The Finishing Touches
Today, the second day of our Tailored Peacoat Series, Dana is walking us through a couple minor changes to the front patch pockets. She will also be discussing the use of hair canvas to interface the coat front. Okay, lets get right into it:The Front Patch Pockets The only change I made to the pockets was to fuse a piece of interfacing to the top of the pocket (the part that will be folded over to the back). It will keep the pocket from stretching (this is a great tip, especially if the wearer likes to shove their hands into their pockets quite often). I used weft interfacing. Using the placement markings for the top of the pocket as a guide, I basted a piece of pocketing (I used washed quilting cotton, but there are pocketing fabrics and Silesia out there) on the wrong side to act as a stay for the pocket (Definition: A stay is a piece of material applied to the wrong side of the self fabric to provide extra strength and resilience. An example that is commonly visible in ready to wear clothing is a button sewn to the inside of a garment at the same time as the exterior button is sewn. When used, the button will be pulling on the inside button rather than stretching out and damaging the self fabric). The stay fabric should be about 2” wider than the finished pocket and 3” tall. Position it so it will be behind the flap but still low enough to catch the top of the pocket. this one.) a tutorial on pad stitching as part of her Lady Grey Sew-Along). On a suit coat, you would pad stitch the lapel, shaping the wool and canvas so the lapel rolls and sits nicely on the finished suit. Overcoats, however, are often designed with the lapels to be worn open or closed, and if both sides of the lapel will be visible, you don’t want the stitches from pad stitching to be seen. If you know the lapels will always be worn open and want to pad stitch the lapels, go for it. Trim the canvas even with the edge of the front and hem (here’s where knowing exactly where the edge is comes in handy), stopping at the notch for the collar. Cross stitch (also called catch stitch) the canvas to the coat. Encyclopedia Peacoatica that was compiled by us from your wonderful contributions a couple months ago. It's a great place to go to find links to resources when planning to start your Goldstream Peacoat!