good pattern pic Great news!  Early yesterday Sabine of Suncoast Custom emailed me to announce that she had finished drafting the medium size of the Newcastle Cardigan.  It was ready for me to mock up to approve the fit before she grades it to all the sizes!  We met at my school (The Pacific Design Academy) because she had an appointment there regarding an evening patternmaking course that she will soon be teaching and she handed over the big white roll of paper that represents the beginning of the Parkland Collection.


This morning I got right to it and cut out the pieces from 1.5m of a 150cm wide olive knit called Oslo Plain (85% Acrylic, 15% wool).  I bought it from Gordon Fabrics Ltd. in Vancouver as a good mock up material because, as far as knits go, I thought it was pretty cheap, a medium weight, and had a medium amount of stretch.  After completing the sample though, I think the cardigan will look better in a heavier weight and maybe in something with a little more stretch to it.

pattern on fabric

I sewed up the sample and made notes on the process which will eventually become the instructions.  I concentrated on accuracy of seam allowances and simply serged all the raw edges for now because for the first mock up, I am mostly just examining the fit and style. sewing The arms and shoulders fit Matt very well which is good because he has medium sized shoulders but the body was quite snug.  Matt has a size small body so, seeing as the mock up was supposed to be a medium fit, the width of the garment will have to be increased quite a bit.  I've let Sabine know the fit adjustments I would like and next time I mock the garment up I'll test it out on as many size medium men as I can get my hands on :P

full front

full back

Before sewing the next sample I'll be brainstorming different finishing techniques to use - should I add stabilizing elastic at the shoulders?  Should the collar be interfaced?  Should the main seams be french or maybe flat felled seams?  All those answers are still to come but for now, I'm really happy with the appearance of the cardigan.

front detail

For this sample, I haven't added the button placket as Sabine, my patternmaker, chose to include a full width body piece which could be cut narrower to make room for the placket.  I think I'll continue to use the placket I designed though because it will provide options for stitching the facing firmly in place so it doesn't flap around (which, I'm sure you can agree, is the most annoying thing for a facing to do!)

back detail

Next step - finalizing the pattern, writing the instructions and sending it out to pattern testers (for free!) - anyone interested?  Leave a comment or email me at



MadeByMeg said:

I agree, I think a thinner collar would be more of a classic look for a man. Can’t wait to see the next version, and I’d love to test one for my man (size s) if you need testers!


ThreadTheory said:

Great, I’ll add you to the tester list! I’m eager to see how the shawl collar looks with a thicker fabric choice and interfacing because it wasn’t folding at the indicated fold line on our test sample (which will make it look quite a bit smaller), but I know what you mean – the pattern will definitely have to include a smaller collar option. Maybe I’ll check with my patternmaker to see if she could add one in :)
Thanks for the comment Meg!


ThreadTheory said:

Hi Michael,
No, sizing won’t be a problem, actually you would be the perfect pattern tester as I want to make sure that our patterns fit sizes XS-XL properly and your opinions on the fit would be very valuable. I’ll send you an email with the details!


ThreadTheory said:

Hi Sue,
Thanks for the suggestions – yes, we’ve asked Sabine to add more width to the sleeves as we want a little more room for clothing to fit under. We haven’t asked her to adjust the collar because the final pattern will call for interfacing and will be sewn up in a slightly thicker knit so we are hoping that it will stand a little higher and thus appear narrower. I might adjust the collar width on the flat though to closer match the final pattern if it still looks too wide. Matt really likes the wide shawl collar – we figure, if we’re going to do a shawl collar we might as well do a really obvious and stylish one :). The pattern, at this point, won’t have collar width options but that’s a great idea to include as an online tutorial! I’ll keep that in mind!


Sue said:

Wow, nice job Morgan! A couple questions, as it’s hard to tell from the pictures, but, is the forearm part of the sleeve loose enough to fit a long sleeved shirt under comfortably? (We’re a bit old fashioned.) Also, the collar appears wider than what I had imagined from the sketch, is that something that would be a choice in the pattern itself? Ie. would the pattern have various widths of collars that you could chose from?
I am impressed at how much you have achieved in such a short time. Congrat!

Richard Meredith

Richard Meredith said:

I think it may look better to see the buttons. Also, how about a picture with the cardigan unbuttoned.


ThreadTheory said:

There aren’t any buttons to see yet as it was just a rough fit mock up but when we’ve received the final pattern and we start sewing samples we’ll be sure to show more views of the garment as well as several button options – stay tuned for that!


Michael said:

I’m a guy that sews and I would like to be your pattern tester… The only thing is I wear size L-XL.

Will that be a problem?

I just finished two pairs of jeans. I hope the Jebediah Pants pattern will be released soon.

Thanks for making mens sewing patterns!!

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