Woodhaven Apron Sew-Along Day 2: Pockets!
The Woodhaven Apron comes in three variations that offer options for different styles of pockets. The pattern features a chest pocket for pens and small tools along with three hip pocket designs. Variation 1 includes three layers of divided pockets reinforced with rivets and an extra ergonomic hip pocket perfect for tools that need to be reached quickly and frequently. Variation 2 includes a clever 'kangaroo' pouch with two deep angled pockets and two shallower pockets. Variation 3's divided pleated pockets are ideal for carrying many small things (nails, screws, a phone) in an organized manner. Today we will be going through the steps to assemble the top zipper chest pocket and the lower hip pockets.
Top Zipper Chest Pocket
With right sides together and notches aligned, match one Top Zipper Pocket - Outer Side piece to the Top Zipper Pocket - Outer Center piece. Stitch together.
Press the seam allowances towards the center, and make a row of topstitching along the seam to keep the seam allowances in place. Repeat for the other Top Zipper Pocket - Outer Side piece.
Tip: Create two rows of topstitching throughout assembling the pattern for detail.
When topstitching, use topstitching thread so the stitch lines are more visible. Try a contrasting color thread for topstitching to make the stitches pop even more!
Hem the top edge of the outer pocket.
With the right sides facing up, place the Outer Zipper Pocket onto the Top Zipper Pocket piece, matching notches. Baste the outer pocket in place within the seam allowance so that the basting will be hidden in later steps.
Match the narrow side of the Top Zipper Pocket Flap to one side of the zipper tape, with right sides together. Stitch the Top Zipper Pocket Flap to the zipper using a zipper foot and stitch along the length of the zipper tape.
Fold the Top Zipper Pocket Flap up and away from the zipper but do not press.
Stitch the other side of the zipper to the top of the pocket.
Press the zipper right side up, along the pocket edge.
Fold the Zipper Pocket Flap down covering the zipper and top portion of the zipper pocket. Fold the Pocket Flap up along the fold line, so that the wrong sides are together. The folded edge of the Pocket Flap should match with the edge of the Outer Zipper Pocket.
Baste the short edges of the Pocket Flap to the zipper and pocket pieces following the basting line on the pocket.
Baste the short edges of the Pocket Flap to the zipper and pocket pieces following the basting line on the pocket.
Press the outer edges to the wrong side at 5/8 (1.6 cm). Match the chest pocket to the apron aligning with the placement markings. Topstitch around the outer edges of the pocket unit and flap.
TIP: If the edges are too bulky and difficult to turn, trim the inner seam allowance edges to reduce bulk. For a nice curved edge, try basting along the seam line and then turning the edges, using the basting line as a guide. Remove the basting stitches after. You can also use the rubber mallet to hammer around the edges to reduce bulk.
Variation 1 Hip Pockets
For the three center pocket pieces, start by hemming the top edge of each pocket piece.
Press the outer edges of the small pocket piece to the wrong side at 5/8 (1.6 cm). Match the small pocket piece to the middle pocket piece, aligning with the placement markings. Topstitch around the small pocket to secure. Match the middle pocket to the large pocket, aligning notches and lower outer edges.
Baste the outer edges of the pocket unit together. Press the outer edges to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.6 cm) and set aside. We will not be attaching this pocket unit to the apron yet!
Hem the top edges of the lower side pocket pieces.
Match the square pocket to the angled pocket. Baste the outer edges together.
With the pocket unit facing right side up, press the RIGHT outer edges of the pocket to the wrong side at 5/8" (1/6 cm). Press the bottom edge of the pocket to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.6 cm). Leave the LEFT outer edges as is.
For simplicity, all pockets for the Woodhaven Apron are the same size and have not been graded. Depending on which size you make, you may need to trim the outer edge of the lower side pocket to fit your apron.
When attaching the lower pockets, it is important to attach the lower side pocket first. This is because the center pocket unit will enclose the pointed edge of the lower side pocket. Refer to the diagram in the instructions and the image below.
Match the lower side pocket to the apron aligning with the placement markings.
Topstitch around the pressed edges of the lower side pocket first to secure.
Match the center pocket unit to the apron aligning with the placement markings and overlapping the pointed edge of the lower side pocket. Topstitch around the pressed edges to secure.
Once you have attached the center pocket unit, stitch along the center of the pocket unit, through all layers, from the top hem of the large pocket to the bottom of the pocket unit to create smaller pockets.
Variation 2 Hip Pockets
Assembling the lower pockets for variation 2 is very similar to assembling the center pockets for variation 1.
First, hem the top edge of the small rectangle pocket. Then hem the angled edges of the large kangaroo pocket.
Match the small rectangle pocket to the kangaroo pocket matching the lower outer edges. Baste along the lower outer edges. Press the lower outer edges of the pocket unit to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.6 cm). Press the top edge of the kangaroo pocket to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Match the pocket unit to the apron aligning with the placement markings. Topstitch along the top pressed edge of the kangaroo pocket, and the lower outer pressed edges, to secure.
Stitch along the center of the pocket unit, through all layers, from the top of the kangaroo pocket to the bottom of the pocket unit to create smaller pockets.
Variation 3 Hip Pockets
Two narrow rectangular pieces are overlapped and skewed to create the hip pockets for variation 3. These pockets are great for carrying smaller narrower items, such as brushes, a tape measure, nails, a cellphone, etc.
On both lower pocket pieces, create pleats following the directions in the instruction booklet. With the pieces right sides facing up, the left fold creates a knife pleat. The two center fold lines create narrow box pleats. Press the pleats thoroughly to create sharp folded edges.
Unfold the pleats. Hem the top and bottom long edges pocket piece. Fold the pleats back in place.
There are notches on the short edges of each pocket piece. With the right sides facing up, overlap the pocket pieces. Align the top finished edge of the outer pocket piece with the notches on the short edges of the inner pocket piece. Baste along the short edges to connect the pockets and create a larger pocket unit. Press the short edges to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Match the pocket unit to the apron aligning with the placement markings. Topstitch along the pressed side edges and bottom edge of the lower pocket to secure.
In the center of each pleat create a small vertical bar tack to create the smaller pockets. You can also choose to create these smaller pockets by adding a rivet to the center of the pleats as shown in the image below (which we will go over on the third day of the sew-along).
Day 3 of the Woodhaven Apron sew-along will detail how to install hardware and straps to complete the apron.
