To assemble the pants legs and create the seam finishes shown in this section of the sew-along please get ready:
- Front pant
- Back pant
- Back yoke
- Bias binding (optional)
For the back yoke and inseams, we will be using a flat felled seam to finish the seam allowances. Refer to the diagram in your instruction booklet for step-by-step illustrations.
With wrong sides together, match one back yoke to one back pant aligning notches. Stitch at 5/8" (1.6 cm). Press the seam open.
This step is very important to pay attention to. Trim ONLY THE LOWER seam allowance edge to 1/4" (0.6 cm). Do not trim the top seam allowance edge.
Press both seam allowances toward the back pant leg. Fold the TOP seam allowance edge around the LOWER trimmed seam allowance edge, securing the raw edges. The top seam allowance will now be about 3/8" (1 cm) wide. Edgestitch along the pressed folded edge to finish the seam.
Variation 1: Shaping the pant legs (see diagram in the booklet)
Lay out both Pant Leg Fronts with right sides together on your ironing board. Use the iron (with lots of steam) to stretch the areas indicated in the instruction booklet. By stretching these areas, and keeping the indicated areas short, the pant legs will better fit the contours of the leg and there will be less easing involved when sewing the side seam and inseams. Repeat for the back pant legs.
Your inseams and outseams will look slightly rippled as shown, but the seam will match up easier for the front and back legs.
Match the front and back legs together at the inseam. Finish the seam using a flat felled seam.
SIDE SEAMS OPTION 1:
With right sides together, match the front and back pant legs at the side seams, matching notches. Sew the seam, easing in any excess. Finish the seam allowances together and press towards the back leg.
SIDE SEAM OPTION 2:
With right sides together, match the front and back pant legs at the side seams, matching notches. Sew the seam, easing in any excess. Press open the seam allowance.
Bind the seam allowances with contrast or color to create an interesting detail on rolled cuffs. Use store-bought 1/4" (0.6) double-fold bias binding or make your own using a thin cotton fabric.
TIP: To reduce bulk at the hem, only bind the seam allowances to the hem fold line.
Place a bar tack or rivet just below 5/8" (0.6 cm) at the top of the pocket opening.
Extend bar tack from the side seam towards the center front at the point where the pocket opening edge meets the side seam.