Sew-along with us!

Perhaps you'd like some company while you sew? We've sewn up each of our patterns and photographed each step along the way. Find the pattern you're after in the filter drop down below left.

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 1 - Gathering Materials and Choosing a Size

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 1 - Gathering Materials and Choosing a Size

Welcome to the Bamberton Shorts Sew-along! We hope you'll enjoy making these wonderfully comfortable shorts. No matter the variation you choose you have some satisfying construction processes ahead of you.
First let's go ahead and select which design details you plan to sew:
Will you work on some welt pockets? Or add flapped patch pockets? Would you like a knit waistband (soft and comfortably casual, coordinating or contrasting with your main material) or woven (more structured, easier to match exactly to your main material)? Would you like to add contrast details by picking a secondary color for your side panels and even pockets or waistband?
The Bamberton Shorts are best sewn in light to medium weight woven fabrics. Their gathered waistband and wide legs makes them unsuitable for stiffer/heavier weight materials such as canvas. Avoid anything that is too crisp so that the gathers will sit nicely. Batiste, lightweight twills and even quilting cotton will work nicely.
Try a summery seersucker:
An elegant linen:
A sporty quick-dry material:
The Bamberton Shorts are available in two formats in our shop - a women's/curvy pattern and a men's/straight pattern. They feature the exact same design details with the only differences being the body measurement charts they were drafted to fit and the inseam length. The men's pattern has a longer leg than the women's pattern. Both patterns can be easily adjusted to have any inseam length you prefer!
There is a line that you can use to slash and spread or shorten the pattern and instructions included on how to do this within the booklet.
Within the women's and men's patterns are two seperate patterns - one for a smaller size range and one for a larger range. Have a close look at the charts below to find the pattern that suits your dimensions best:
If your hip and waist ration differs from any of the Body Measurement charts above, not to worry! We have graded these patterns to include MANY sizes and nested the pattern pieces in such a way that you can easily grade between the sizes that match your waist an hip measurements. There are also many fitting suggestions within the instruction booklet.
Now that you've decided on a style and size, let's gather the rest of the details before we begin to sew. Aside from fabric, as discussed above, you will also need to select the following notions:
  • Ribbed Knit Material (if you've chosen to sew a knit waistband): Look for 1X1 ribbing that is quite thin. Anything thicker than t-shirt weight will result in a waistband that is too bulky. If you're choosing a knit waistband for comfort, I'd recommend finding something made from bamboo or a bamboo/cotton soft!

  • Pocket Lining Material: This can simply be your main/self fabric or you can have fun by adding a secret print (quilting cotton or other thin material) or something suited to your intended purpose for the shorts. For example, if you're sewing quick-dry activewear or swimwear you could look for a mesh material that keeps your shorts light and quick-drying.

  • Elastic: The pattern calls for 3/4" elastic which is narrower than the finished waistband. The elastic fits within the drawstring channel so the area above and below the elastic is left unstructured for a very casual looking effect and a comfortable unconstrained feeling when worn. If you prefer a more structured waistband you can choose elastic up to 1 1/2" thick to fill the entire waistband and provide more firm support around the waist. Simply widen the drawstring channel topstitching to match the width of the elastic you chose. Look for braided elastic and, if you are sewing the shorts as swimwear, look for chlorine resistant elastic specifically. If you have a woven elastic in your stash this could work too as long as it isn't especially thick and rigid. The main aim is comfort here!

  • Interfacing: Any light to medium weight woven interfacing will work! It is used to add structure to the drawstring buttonholes and some of the other small design details.
  • Drawstring Cord: The cord you choose can really alter the look of the finished shorts. If you're after something beachy and summery, choose a double woven 5mm cotton cord and simply knot the fraying ends. If you'd like to create activewear, search for something flat like a shoe lace (in a pinch, if you want to shop local and can't find the cord you are after, simply repurpose two shoelaces by sewing them together to create your cord. The seam where they join will be hidden in your drawstring casing).

  • Thread: Remember to select thread colors to suit each of your contrast details unless you want visible topstitching!
  • 2 Buttons (for the patch pocket variation): Any flat style of button measuring 5/8" will work here. Avoid anything with a shank and much depth as these buttons will be sat on!
  • Aglets (optional): If you are knotting your drawstring ends you will not need aglets. Likewise, if you are using shoelaces, your aglets will already be installed. There are many styles of aglets or drawstring end caps. You could even add beads to the end of your drawstrings to contribute to the overall style of the shorts!

June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 2 - Back Welt Pockets

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 2 - Back Welt Pockets

Today we begin sewing our shorts. First, apply your interfacing to the pocket facings and waistband. Next, add interfacing to the relevant pocket pieces. This post will be all about the welt pockets, please skip ahead to Day 3 to learn how to sew the patch pockets.
Prepare the welt pocket bags by first finishing the edges of your welt facings with a serger or zig zag stitch. Alternatively, you could fold under the long raw edges 1/4-3/8" but keep in mind this will add some bulk.
Position the facings onto the pocket bags (wrong side of the facing against the right side of the pocket bag) using the notches to guide you. Pin and edgestitch them in place.
Next, prepare the shorts back pieces for the pockets by transferring all the necessary markings. I like to use a regular pencil for this but, depending on your fabric choice, you may need to use a light colored chalk or a washable fabric marker or even basting stitches in a contrast thread for this marking.
Double check that your welt markings are drawn at exactly the same position on both shorts by lining up the shorts with right sides together and peeking to check that the markings align perfectly. You woul not want to create shorts with one pocket higher than the other!
Now we can prepare the actual welt pieces by folding them in half with wrong sides together. If you like to keep the welts from shifting around you can optionally baste them within the seam allowance as pictured above. The less moving parts we have to work with in the next few steps, the better!
Place the welts on the shorts back with raw edges together centered over the welt markings. Note that the welts are longer than the drawn marking. They should be centered over the marking.
To stitch them in place, use a very short stitch to slow yourself down and allow the stitching lines to be very precise. Make the stitching lines match the penciled in marking as precisely as possible.
Push the raw edges of the welts out of the way and cut across the center of the welt markings. Cut a diagonal to each corner. Snip as close to the last welt stitch as possible as this will create crisp corners later on.
Push the welt flaps through the opening you just cut. The end result will be that the raw seam allowance is on the wrong side of the shorts back and the folded welt edges are now facing each other.
Press the welt pieces and pocket opening to form a neat rectangle. From the right side it will look as above and from the wrong side it will look as below:
While the pocket looks finished from the outside, there are some more very important steps to go! Let's secure the welt in place now. Fold the shorts back to expose the small triangle on each narrow end of the welt. Stitch veritcally across the triangle. You can see in the photo that we did this stitching after adding the pocket bag. In the instruction booklet we have you do it before. Either works!
Now it is time to add the pocket bag. On the wrong side of the shorts, flip up the bottom welt and pinch all raw edged layers. You will be sewing only these layers to the pocket bag. Let the rest of the shorts fall away from these pinched layers.
To attach the pocket bag we will be working with the end farthest from the pocket facing (the bottom of the pocket bag).
Place the pocket bag under the shorts with the right side up. Pin it to the bottom welt seam allowance that we exposed by pinching earlier.
Stitch across the entire seam allowance. Press the pocket bag away from the welt opening:
Flip to the right side of the shorts and edgestitch through the welt/shorts/pocket bag along the bottom of the welt. You can see below that we edgestitched along the sides at this point too. It is better to wait until the pocket bag is complete to stitch along the side of the welt so please ignore this stitching for now!
Back on the wrong sides of the shorts, fold up the pocket bag along the notch. Press along the new bottom of the pocket. The pocket facing should be centered over the welt opening.
Pin the pocket edges together (keep the shorts back out of the way for this step).
Stitch the pocket bag edges and finish with a serger or zig zag sittch. Baste across the top of the pocket bag and shorts to keep it in place.
From the right side edgestitch around the rest of the welt pocket through all layers (including the pocket bag).
And there you have it! A functioning and attractive welt pocket that won't sag due to all our careful stitching efforts!
June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 3- Back Patch Pockets

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 3- Back Patch Pockets

Today we are sewing the back patch pockets for Variation 1 and 3 of the Bamberton shorts. Before we begin, make sure that two of your four back pocket flaps are interfaced.

Assemble the flaps by placing one interfaced and one non-interfaced flap with right sides together. Repeat for the second flap. Sew around the sides and bottom edge using a 5/8" seam allowance. Reduce bulk if needed by grading one seam allowance shorter than the other and by clipping the corners.


Flip the pocket flaps right side out and press crisply. Finish them off by topstitching and/or edgestitching. Depending on the look you are after for your shorts you might like to complete your shorts with minimalist edgestitching 1/8" from the pocket flap edge (and then repeat this style of stitching whereever topstitching or edgestitching is called for. This is a great look for color blocked shorts and swim shorts in particular.

To create a more rugged look, add a second row of stitching 1/4" inwards. This is called topstitching. It is a great choice aesthetically for hiking shorts and any shorts sewn with a more rigid and sturdy fabric.

Complete the flaps by creating a vertical buttohole to suit the size of your chosen button.

Let's move on to the patch pockets themselves. Above you can see we've finished the raw edges of the pocket. This is optional and is a nice way to prevent wear on the pockets if they will be used often as the constant in an out of a phone or wallet can fray unfinished edges.

Turn under the pocket hem along the first notch. Turn under again at the second notch to create a wide hem. Press.

Stitch across the pocket opening hem to secure it. Our instructions suggest stitching from the right side of the pocket to ensure the most attractive stitching on the outside of the garment but you can also stitch from the wrong side if you are happy with how your bobbin stitches are performing.


Turn the remaining edges under using 5/8" seam allowances. Press thoroughly.

Place the pocket onto the shorts back using the pocket placement markings. I like to pin the pockets in place and then hold the two shorts back pieces with right sides together to ensure that the pockets are exactly aligned with each other.

Stitch around the pocket sides and bottom using 1/8" edgestitching and the optional extra row of topstitching. If only adding edgestitching, you can add a sturdy upper corner to your pockets by completing your edgestitching with a small triangle shape as pictured above.

Add the flap above the patch pockets by placing it pointed up with the right side of the flap (the more attractive side of the buttonhole) facing the right side of the shorts. Align the raw flap edge with the top of the pocket. Stitch 5/8" up along the pocket flap markings.

Trim the excess seam allowance from the pocket flap. Press the pocket flap down.

Stitch the pocket flap down by edge stitching and top stitching across the top of the flap. This will also enclose the raw seam allowance.


Repeat this process for the second pocket and flap. Add the buttons to your pockets at the marking. And now your pockets are complete!

June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 4 - Back and Front Seat Seams

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 4 - Back and Front Seat Seams

Today we will complete the back and front seat (or crotch) seams on our Bamberton Shorts.
Begin by aligining the two shorts back pieces with right sides together. Stitch along the curved seat seam using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances together using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Press the shorts back open with the seam allowances towards the left back. Stitch them in place by edgestitching from the right side of the shorts back. Optionally, add a row of topstitching 1/4" away for a faux flat fell seam. This creates a more rugged appearance reminiscient of jeans.
Now it's time to complete the front seat seam. This will be sewn at the same time as a mock fly.
Begin by placing the shorts fronts right sides tigether. Pin along the fly and seat seam and then stitch along the edge (following the curve of the fly) using a 5/8" seam allowance.
Next, mark the true center front using the notch at the waistline. This can be marked with chalk or a pencil and ruler. The line will extend from the notch down to the bottom of the curved fly and will meet with the stitching you just completed.


Sew along this center front line and then stitch the entire center front and seat seam a second time for added strength in this high wear area.

Open up the shorts front and position them on your ironing surface with wrong side up. Press the mock fly and seam allowance towards the left front (if you were wearing the shorts).

Flip the shorts over so the right side is visible. Use the stitching template to mark the fly topstitching on the left front of the shorts (this is currently on the right side of your work surface).

Topstitch along this J-stitch line to secure the mock fly in place. Next, complete the seam underneath the fly by edgestitching 1/8" from the seam. Optionally, match the faux flat fell seam on the back of the shorts by adding a row of topstitching 1/4" from your edgestitching.

Next we will be assembling the fronts and backs along the inseam and side seams!


June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 5 - Front Pockets, Side Panels, Inseam

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 5 - Front Pockets, Side Panels, Inseam

Today's a big day of progress! We will be sewing the front pockets, side panels and inseam.
Let's begin with the front pockets. First, ensure that your pocket facings ae interfaced.
Next, finished the curved facing edges with your chosen manner such as a serger, zig zag stitch or even folding under the raw edge and pressing. If you choose to fold under you will want to sew a line of basting stitches along where you plan to fold. Next, clip into the seam allowance up to the basting stitch along the curve. This extra step will make pressing under the raw curved edge much easier!
Next, place the facigns on the pocket bags. Position the pocket bags wrong side up on your work surface (the striped fabric shown here didn't have an obvious wrong side but if your pocket lining material does, it works great to place it facing down so that the finished pockets will have colorful linings visible from the inside of the shorts. This is a nice surprise when the wearer goes to put their shorts on.
Notice that the angled pocket opening on the pocket bag is pointed down. Pin the facings in place and then edge stitch around all facing edges.
Now we can attach the pocket bags to the shorts front. Match the shorts front right side with the pocket bag wrong side. Pin along the angled pocket opening. Notice that the facing is now on the bottom.
Stitch the angled pocket opening using a 5/8" seam allowance and then trim and/or grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the seam allowance and pocket opening away from the shorts. Ensure that the pocket opening stays crisp (and the pocket bag isn't inclined to roll to the outside of the shorts) by understitching 1/8" from the seam as shown above.
Fold the pocket bag towards the shorts so the pocket opening appears as it will on the finished shorts. Lastly, finish off the pocket opening by edge stitching along the opening through the shorts and pocket bag layers. You could optionally skip the edge stitching or add a second row of top stitching depending on the look you are after.
To finish the pocket bag, flip the shorts front over so you are looking at the wrong side. Fold the pocket bag up along the fold line (wrong sides together). As per the diagrams in the instruction booklet, you are now looking at the right side of the pocket bag fabric and the facing is on the inside of the pocket. Below is another view with the pocket bag pulled away from the shorts front. We are looking here at the other side of the pocket bag (the side without the facing):
Pin and stitch along the vertical pocket bag side. Finish the seam allowance using a serger or zig zag stitch.
From the right side of the shorts pin the top and side of the pocket bag in place to match the raw edges of the shorts front. Baste. Repeat for the second pocket and they are now functional and finished!
Let's move on to the side panels.
Position one side panel against the shorts front or back with right sides together (the bag is pictured here, the front is shown in the instruction booklet - both work as the first step!). Pin and stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowance using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Press the panel away from the shorts back (or front). Add your desired edgestitching or topstitching along the panel to secure the seam allowance to the panel and create a sporty look.
Add the other half of the shorts (front is pictured here, back is pictured in the instruction booklet). Pin the panel and shorts front with right sides together. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance in the same manner as before.
Press the seam allowance towards the side panel and edgestitch and/or topstitch again.
Repeat this process for the second panel to create a full loop.
Now it is time to sew the inseams!
Position the shorts front and back with right sides together and the inseams align. Particularly focus on lining up the seat/crotch seam. Pin thoroughly.
Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Check the seat/crotch seam line up and then press the seam allowance towards the back of the shrots. Finish the seam allowance using your preferred method. You can do edgestitching and even topstitching along this seam if you like though it is easier to make small fit adjustments later if you do not.
Flip your shorts right side out and they are ready for the waistband next!
June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 6 - Waistband, Hem

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 6 - Waistband, Hem

We will have finished shorts by the end of today's sewing progress!
Let's create the waistband.
Begin by preparing your drawstring buttonholes. Make sure the small rectangle of interfacing has been applied over the button hole markings. This stabilizes the knit or woven material to make the button holes easier to sew.
Apply the buttonholes and cut them open.
Place the front and back waistband pieces right sides together. Sew the side seams using a 5/8" seam allowance.
Fold the waistband in half along the fold line so raw edges are matching. The fold is now the top of the waistband. Press.
Next we will add the elastic and drawstring casing. We do this with topstitching. If you are using a woven material for your waistband, keep your stitch length as is. Our sew-along sample is sewn using linen for the main shorts and a matching rib knit for the waistband (so comfy!). To ensure the stretchy ribbing doesn't cause the casing topstitching to snap it's a good idea to use a fairly long stitch length or even a stretch stitch if your machine has this option. A zig zag is also a possibility but keep in mind that it will be very visible on the finished garment.
As you can see below, Adrianna chose a long stitch length with a very narrow zig zag:
Sew the topstitching along the drawstring casing markings. Start near one of the side seams. When sewing the bottom row, leave a 2" opening so you can insert the elastic later. If your elastic is wider than recommended you will need to use your elastic to determine new topstitching lines. The topstitching should create a channel that is equal to or slightly wider than the elastic width:
Cut your elastic to the recommended lenght (your waist measurement minus 3") or circle the elastic around the wearer's waist (where they intend the shorts waistband to sit) and ensure the elastic is comfortably snug (remember it needs to hold up the weight of the shorts). Add 1" to this measurement and cut to length.
Insert the elastic using a safety pin to pull it through the channel.
Overlap the elastic ends 1/2" and stitch securely. Distribute the waistband material evenly along the elastic. Stitch the 2" opening closed.
Insert the drawstring in the same manner (but through the buttonholes instead).
Add the waistband to the shorts by placing them right sides together and the raw edge of the waistband aligned with the raw top edge of the shorts. Pin thoroughly at center front, center back, the side seams and then to ensure even distribution between these points. Keep the drawstring pulled away from the waistband seam.
Stitch carefully to avoid creating tucks in the shorts or waistband material. Flip the finished waistband up and press the seam allowance towards the shorts.
Depending on fabric choice, the seam allowance can cause a considerable amount of bulk. To reduce this bulk, finish the seam allowance and then edgestitch it in place from the right side of the shorts.
Add knots, beads, aglets or even a toggle to your drawstring and your shorts are just about complete! We've only the hem left to sew.
To create the hem, press the raw edge under 1/2".
Press the hem under again at 1". Pin.
Edge stitch and optionally topstitch to complete the hem.
Give your shorts a final press if needed and try them on! Time to head to the beach!
June 05, 2024

Carmanah Sweater Sew-Along: Day 1 - Yokes and Pockets

Welcome to the Carmanah Sweater Sew-Along! I'm so glad you're joining us as we sew both variation 1 and 2 of the pattern. We're diving right into the sewing steps for this sew-along but if you need some extra assistance choosing your materials, please have a look at our Finlayson Sew-Along where we discuss suitable sweater material choices in detail (all of which would work great for this pattern too!).


Let's begin our sweater by interfacing all applicable pieces. When adding interfacing to a knit fabric, here are a few tips to ensure success:
1. Use a pressing cloth so you don't accidentally get interfacing glue on your iron
2. Do not move your iron side to side, instead, place it down onto the pressing cloth, hold it for 10 seconds, and then lift it up before applying the iron to the next area. This prevents the weight of the iron from stretching out the knit fabric or breaking the small strips of interfacing.
No matter the variation you have chosen you will need to interface the center front of the sweater to stabilize the fabric in preparation for adding the zipper later. The partial zip variation requires this interfacing only on the Front Yoke. The full zip variation requires it on the Front Yoke and Front Body pieces.
Next, let's add interfacing to the collar or hood pieces. The collar needs interfacing only on the short ends as this is where the zipper will extend to:
The hood needs interfacing along the short straight edges as this is where the zipper will extend to:
You will also be adding grommets to the hood to prepare for a drawstring. Grommets can easily pull off of stretchy knit fabric so it's important to remove any stretch in this area by appling a 2" square of interfacing:


Ok, our pieces have been interfaced, now we can get sewing! We are going to begin with the kangaroo pockets. The sewing process is the same for the the full zip and partial zip variations with the only difference being that the pocket is split in half by the zipper for the full zip variation.
Begin finishing the pocket opening edges. These are the angled edges that will be folded under to make the pocket hem later. I like to finish these with twill tape as this serves multiple purposes - it stabilizes the hem so it is less likely to bag out over time, it makes the pocket edge harder wearing which will allow the sweater to last longer, and it adds an attractive high end feel and appearance to the sweater. You can use regular twill tape or experiment with decorative ribbon (velvet ribbon in a coordination color to the main sweater feels very nice against the hands!).
Place the twill tape on the right side of the pocket opening so it is only half on the fabric. Stitch in place. Next, flip your pocket so you are looking at the wrong side of the material and fold over the pocket opening/twill tape. The hem should be 5/8". Press crisply and then stitch this hem secure 1/8" from the inner edge of the twill tape (the left edge of the twill tape in the picture below):
From the right side of the garment, your pocket will look like the photo below. Note that the sharp angle at the bottom of hem should line up with the pocket looks like it got a bit askew here! Not to worry though as this will be fixed when we finish the remaining edges of the pocket.
Once you've finished both pocket openings, it's time to press under the remaining edges of the pocket 5/8". If you're sewing the full zip variation leave the straight center front edge of each pocket unfinished as this is where the zipper will run.
Our pockets are done and we can now add them to our sweater front! Align the pocket with the placement markings on your sweater (I like to mark my placement markings with a pin or a small bartack with needle and thread). Pin the pocket (or pockets) thoroughly in place so they don't shift while you topstitch.
To topstitch the quarter zip variation, first, stitch 1/8" from the edge along the pocket top. Next, start at the bottom of one angled pocket opening and edgestitch along the side, bottom and other side of the kangaroo pocket.
If you are sewing the full zip variation, the process for adding the two pockets is quite similar to the quarter zip variation but we will need to pin the two pockets in place to each sweater front and then do a single stretch of stitching that starts at the top of the pocket opening, goes across the top of the pocket, down center front, across the bottom of the pocket and up to the bottom of the pocket opening:
For added strength (on both variations) you can do a tight zig zag or buttonhole stitch to bartack the top and bottom of the pocket openings in place. This is a great idea if you place your hands in your pockets often as this is a common point of strain that could tear your pocket fabric!


Pockets are now done and we can move onto the front and back yokes. Let's begin with the front yoke. Both the quarter and full zip variations have the same yoke pieces but the finishing for each variation is slightly different to prepare for the two different zipper lenghts.

For both variations we must first attach the yoke front and back at the shoulder seams. Pin all yoke pieces right sides together and stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Press the allowances open and then stabilize the shoulder by edgestitching through the yoke and seam allowance material on each side of the shoulder seam. Alternatively you could simply serge the shoulder seam.

This is also a good point to staystitch around the neckline to prevent it stretching out during the rest of the sewing process. Staystitch with a short stitch length just shy of 5/8" from the raw edge of the neckline.

Now we can add the back yoke to the back of the sweater. There are several ways we could do this depending on your seam finishing preferences. You could simply serge the seam as pictured below:
Or you could add twill tape to finish the seam allowance as you'll see in the photos for the front yoke momentarily (scroll down now to see the process or skip ahead to adding the front yoke first so you can learn the steps of applying twill tape to apply them to your back yoke after).
If you are sewing the quarter zip you will need to press under the center front yoke seam allowances 5/8" before attaching the yokes to your sweater front. Next, line up the yokes and front with right sides together. The center front pressed edges will form a gap at the middle. Align the finished yoke edges with the placement markings on the sweater front. If you are struggling to align them exactly (your gap is smaller or larger), please don't worry! It just means your zipper tape will be more or less visible when you apply your zipper later accordingly. Just make sure that your gap is considerably narrower than the zipper tape you have chosen.
If you are sewing the full zip, do not turn under the center front of your yoke pieces. This will be done later when you apply the zipper! Instead, simply place the yoke and sweater fronts with right sides together and stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance.
To finish the yoke seams with twill tape instead of a serger, lay the twill tape on your work surface, place your sweater front (wrong side down) on top of the twill tape so that the twill tape covers the seam and extends down onto the sweater front at least 1/8". Place the yoke on top of the sweater front with wrong sides together if you havent already.
You can see in the photo below that Adrianna is applying twill tape after sewing the yoke and front together. This is different than recommended in our instructions but certainly works too!
Stitch along the seam line so that the yoke, front and twill tape are all stitched together.
Press the seam so that the twill tape and seam allowances extend up towards the yoke. Trim the seam allowances so they are narrower than the twill tape - you can now cover them entirely with the twill tape. Edgestitch along the top edge of the twill tape using the straight edge of the tape as a guide to keep your stitching nice and neat:
From the right side of the garment, here is what your stitching will look like. The distance from the seam will vary depending on the width of twill tape that you used:
In our next post we proceed with the collar or hood. See you then!
February 16, 2024
Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 2 - Hood and Collar

Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 2 - Hood and Collar

Today we will create our hood or collar for the Carmanah Sweater! Let's begin with the hood:

Hood or Collar Assembly

Add buttonholes or grommets to hood front to ready it for a drawstring. If you are working with a very unstable knit (loosely knit or very stretchy) I highly recommend doing a test buttonhole or grommet on a scrap of material. You may find that one layer of interfacing is not enough to stabilize this area and that the grommet will easily pop off. To further stabilize you could add a thicker or even woven style of interfacing or layer an extra square of woven material (quilting cotton for example on the wrong side of the hood when you apply the grommet.
Next, let's sew the hood panels together. The hood is made of three panels - two sides and a center rectangle. Begin by placing one hood and the cetner panel right sides togehter. Pin so that the long curve of the hood bends to match the long straight edge of the center panel. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. You don't need to finish this seam allowance as the hood is lined but if you are using a serger for your seams it will look finished anyways, as per the photo below.
Add the second side of the hood to the other long straight side of the center panel. Trim the seam allowances if necessary to reduce bulk and press the seam allowances towards the hood sides. Lastly, topstitch along the hood sides 1/8" from the seam to create a tidy finish.
Now we repeat the same process with the lining pieces. Instead of pressing the trimmed seam allowances towards the sides, instead press them towards the center panel. This will reduce bulk when the hood and lining are sewn together.
Next, let's assemble the hood facing. Sew together the narrow straight edges of the facing with right sides together and a 5/8" seam allowance. Press open.
Attach the facing to the hood lining by pining the facing and lining right sides together along the hood front. You will need to attach the longest edge of the facing (the convex curve) to the longest edge of the hood opening (the concave curve). It will feel a bit awkward when you match these opposing curves together but with lots of pins and care to place the facing seam centered between the hood seams, it will work!
Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance and trim the seam allowances, especially along the sharpest curve. Press the seam allowances towards the lining.
At this point we need to prepare the bottom of the hood lining so it is ready to be added to the sweater later. You can either press under the bottom seam allowance 5/8" or apply twill tape for fancy neckline finish. To apply twill tape you will need to place your tape on top of the right side of the hood lining. Position it so that it is mostly on the hood and only extends 1/8" over the seamline. Stitch along the seamline 1/8" from the bottom of the twill tape edge.
Press the twill tape down over the seam allowance.
The hood is now assembled and ready for our next sewing steps. Let's do the same process to prepare the collar option! First pick one of your collar pieces to be the lining (the contrast fabric piece if you've decided to do contrast for the inner collar).
Turn under the bottom 5/8" seam allowance or apply twill tape as we did for the hood lining above. With the right side of your collar lining facing up, place the twill tape on top of the collar. Position it so that it is mostly on the collar and only extends 1/8" over the seamline. Stitch along the seamline 1/8" from the bottom of the twill tape edge. Press the twill tape down over the seam allowance as pictured below:

Add Collar or Hood to Sweater

It's time to add our hood or collar to our sweater!
If you're sewing the quarter zip you will need to temporarily unfold the pressed center front seam allowances along the yoke. Try to keep those pressed lines visible for use in future steps (if you accidentally smooth them out, you can repress them later at 5/8".
 Place the hood or collar and sweater with right sides together. Align the raw neckline edge. Note that the raw collar or hood center front edges will align with the raw center front edges of the yoke. Pin thoroughly. Stitch around the entire neckline at 5/8" and press the seam allowance towards the hood or collar. You can trim and grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk if needed. Grading is when you trim one seam allowance shorter than the other. It will be sandwiched in between the collar/hood and collar/hood lining soon.
If sewing the quarter zip repress the center front to include the collar seam allowance:
Thanks for following along! See you next post!
February 16, 2024
Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 3 - Main Seams and Cuffs

Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 3 - Main Seams and Cuffs

Sleeves and Side Seams

Let's dive right into the main seams today! First, begin with the sleeves:
Align the sweater and ones sleeve right sides together. Make sure that you have the right sleeve matched to the right armhole. You can tell which is the front portion of the sleeve because there is a single notch and the back portion of the sleeve has a double notch - these notches both match up to the sweater body. Pin along the armscye thoroughly to match the two opposing curves together. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance and finish the seams as per your preference (you can see the seam is serged below):
Once you've repeated this process with the second skeeve and pressed the seam allowances towards the body of the sweater you are welcome to edgestitch through the body and seam allowance for a decorative stitch that keeps the seam allowance in place (not pictured here).
Now it's time to sew up the sleeve and side seams in one go. Fold one sleeve in half lengthwise and match the raw edges. Pin all along the length of the sleeve and body seams. When you stitch this seam, make sure the armhole seam allowance is sitting nicely at the underam. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance and again finish as per your preference. You can press the seam allowances open or to the back depending on the seam finish that you chose.

Cuffs and Hem Band

Ok, let's add the sleeve cuffs to finish them! Fold the cuffs in half with wrong sides together so that the notches match. Stitch along the notched edge using a 5/8" seam allowance and press the seam open (no need to finish this seam allowance, we just did here because we were serging our seams rather than stitching them first with a sewing machine.
Flip the cuffs right side out and press the seam. Now fold the cuffs in half horizontally so that the raw edges match. Press the folded edge.
To add the cuff to the sweater, first ensure the sweater is inside out. Place one cuff into the sleeve end so that right sides are together. Stretch the cuff so it fits the sweater and pin thoroughly. Sew around the entire loop using a 5/8" seam allowance and then finish the seam as desired.
Press the seam allowance towards the sweater and then repeat with the second cuff. The sleeves are done!
Now we will do the same process for the hem band. The hem band finishing differs depending on which version you are making.
If you are sewing the Full Zip version, place the front and back hem bands with right sides together and stitch at the side seams using a 5/8" seam allowance. Press the seam open.
If you are sewing the Partial Zip variation you will need to make a loop with your hem band just as we did with the cuffs.
For both variations, fold the hem band in half horizontally with right sides together and press along the fold (again, just like we did with the cuffs).
To apply the hem band for the Full Zip variation, simply place the raw edges of the band matched with the bottom edge of the opened out sweater. Line up the seams of the hem band with the seams of the sweater and stretch the hem band to match the length of the sweater. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance from center front to center front.
To apply the hem band for the Partial Zip variation, align the hem band and sweater with right sides together and raw edges matching. Make sure the hem band seam is lined up with one of the side seams.
Stretch the hem band to match the sweater and stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowance as desired and press the seam allowance towards the sweater.
The sweater just needs the finishing details now!
February 16, 2024
Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 4 - Zipper and Finishing Details

Carmanah Sew-Along: Day 4 - Zipper and Finishing Details

Today's the last day of the Carmanah Sweater Sew-Along! Let's begin by adding the zipper.


First, for both variations, create a chin guard by placing the two small chin guard pieces with right sides together. Stitch along the curved edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.
Flip right side out and press. Finish the straight edge (which temporarily appears concave in the photo below) as desired.
Ok, let's move on to adding the zipper itself. You'll notice in the instruction booklet that we've added a comprehensive selection of Zipper Installation Tips directly before the zipper installation steps. These are well worth a read as adding a zipper to a knit project can be a bit tricky (since it's mixing the woven zipper tape with the stretchy knit). You'll also likely need to customize the length of the zipper and this section shows you how.
The photos below detail how to add the full zipper. First, begin by placing the zipper along the sweater front so that the bottom stopper is aligned with the bottom edge of the zipper. It's helpful to mark several points on the zipper tape so you can use them to align the zipper for sewing - just as we would use notches when matching together two pieces of fabric:
You can see Adrianna marked 'notches' on the zipper tape whereever there was a seam on the garment. The more markings the better as this will ensure your two zipper halves are applied so they match up exactly!
At this point, if it is necessary to shorten the top of the zipper to match the top edge of the sweater, you can follow the instructions in the Zipper Installation Tips! Note that the zipper stop should be positioned so it is 5/8" below the raw edge of the collar or hood.
Also note that within the instruction booklet I direct you to add the chin guard to your zipper at this point. In the photo below Adrianna chose to add it slightly later in the sewing process.
To further ease the zipper sewing process, you can add narrow double sided tape (the kind that dissolves in the wash and is made for this purpose) to the zipper tape so that the zipper stays precisely placed on the fabric (really helpful to prevent the fabric from stretching as you sew!).
Place the zipper halves so that the right side of the zipper is aligned with the right side of the sweater. Double check that you are using the correct half of the zipper!
Stitch quite close to the zipper teeth using a zipper foot. You can see in the photo below Adrianna began her stitching several inches from the top of the zipper to allow her to add the chin guard afterwards.  Once you are done stitching you can trim the extra zipper tape off the top of the zipper (if you haven't done so already) but be sure to leave enough tape (1/4") above the zipper stop to prevent the zipper stop from falling off!
You can now add the chin guard (if you haven't already as per the instructions) by sandwiching the zipper tape between the two halfs. Stitch it in place and onto the sweater all in one go (still using that zipper foot).
To add the zipper to the partial zip variation, the sewing process is much simpler!
Apply the zipper guard by basting it onto the zipper. Place the whole zipper under the sweater front so the zipper stop is just visible above the yoke seam line. If you are using a longer zipper, you can optionally let it extend below the yoke seamline...the yoke seamline will just become the zipper stop!
Stitch down one side of the zipper, across the yoke seamline, and then up the other side of the zipper.

Hood or Collar Lining

Our zippers are done and it's time to finish the inner hood or collar!
If you are sewing the hooded variation, begin by placing the hood and hood lining/facing unit with right sides together. When aligning these pieces, make sure that the center front seam allowance of the sweater is folded outwards - this way the zipper teeth are facign in towards the sweater and you are lining up the centre front raw edge of the hood and the sweater.
If you have twill tape at the bottom of your lining, allow the twill tape to extend beyond the neckline seam. If you chose to press under the bottom edge of the lining instead, make sure that the pressed edge matches or extends just 1/8" below the neckline seam. Pin all edges thoroughly.
Sew up the center front, aroung the long curve of the hood and down the other center front. Leave the bottom unsewn at this point.
Trim the seam allowances if needed to reduce bulk and flip the hood right side out. Press along the edges. The only edge left unfinished is the bottom of the hood lining. We will proceed with that edge momentarily, but first, here are some photos of finishing the collar lining:
In the same manner that we just added the hood, place the collar and collar lining with right sides together. Ensure that the raw edges of center front are aligned (the zipper tape is flipped so that the teeth are pointing towards the sweater).
Sew up one center front, across the top of the collar, and down the other center front. Trim the seam allowances as needed and flip right side out. Press the collar edges and corners.
Ok, now we are ready to finish the bottom edge of the collar or hood! Within the instruction booklet we offer two options: 1. Folding under the raw edge and stitching by hand or machine. 2. Applying twill tape.
If you folded under the lining seam allowance, you can now pin the folded edge to extend just 1/8" below the neckline of the sweater. Handstitch these layers together OR baste by hand or with large machine stitches and then, from the right side of the sweater, stitch in the ditch to secure the lining to the neckline. Stitching in the ditch is where you carefully stitch right on the seam so your finished stitching isn't visible from the outside of the garment.
To finish your neckline with twill tape, you will notice that the twill tape extends below the neckline:
In the photos above you can see the neckline seam allowances below the twill tape. Before we attache the bottom edge of the twill tape, it can help to attach the neckline and lining seam allowances together so that the lining doesn't want shift in the following steps.
To attach the two seam allowances, pinch them together:
Baste or otherwise stitch these seam allowances together by moving the rest of the garment out of the way and just stitching the seam allowance layers. Adrianna used her serger here but you can use a basting stitch or regular machine stitch. You'll notice you can't get close to either zipper. That's ok! Just sew the bulk of the allowances together.
Now we just need to fold the twill tape over the allowances (trim the allowances if needed). and sew the bottom of the twill tape in place.
Since the seam allowances have been secured together, you can guarantee that the twill tape will sit evenly over the neckline seamline. Simply sew 1/8" from the bottom of the twill tape. You will see that your stitching looks very straight and attractive on the right side of the garment afterwards:
Now that the neckline is done we can proceed with the final details!
For the full zip variation, secure the zipper tape to the sweater by folding it back over the raw center front edges:
Topstitch the zipper tape in place - you can do this from the right side of the garment by stitching 1/4" from the zipper teeth or you can do it from the wrong side of the garment by edgestitching 1/8" from the edge of the zipper tape.
For the quarter zip variation, finish the sweater by topstitching along the center front and and top edge of the collar 1/4" from the edge. This will match the topstitching that you already applied to the zipper on the sweater body.
If you are doing the collar variation, you are now finished! Way to go! If you're sewing the hooded variation there is only one more step:


For the hooded variation, we must now prepare the channel for the drawstring. First, ensure the lining and facing are nicely positioned by pinning through all layers along this seam.
Stitch in the ditch of the lining/facing seam through all hood layers.
Use a safety pin or purpose made tool to thread the drawstring through the channel.
Finish the strawstring by attaching toggles if desired and knotting the drawstring ends (or adding drawstring end caps or beads).
And now your Carmanah Sweater is complete! May it spend many years making it's wearer cozy and warm!
February 16, 2024
Grading the Sayward Raglan Up or Down for a Perfect Fit

Grading the Sayward Raglan Up or Down for a Perfect Fit

Today, as a special addition to the Sayward Raglan Sew-along, we have a guest post from talented sewist and fellow Canadian, Gillian!
Gillian tested the Sayward for us and has also been a source of sewing and blogging inspiration for me for many years now!  I particularly love Gillian’s thoughtful blog post analysing the indie sewing pattern community and her dad’s recent post about sewing an under quilt for hammock camping – Gillian helped her dad tackle this big project.  Their resulting blog post brought back a lot of memories featuring the two camping hammocks Matt and I sewed together a couple of years ago!  We filled one of our under quilts with llama insulation – you can view our first hammock by scrolling down part way through this blog post.
Thank you, Gillian, for sharing your experience with the Sayward Raglan and for teaching us how to easily extend the size range!

Hi! I’m Gillian from Crafting A Rainbow, and today I’m going to talk about what to do when a pattern is just a little too big or small!

I jumped for joy when Thread Theory asked me to test the new Sayward Raglan pattern – finally, a classic but fashionable design that would work for my husband! The options out there for plus-size menswear are just awful, and I’m so glad that Thread Theory has stepped in to fill that gap.

Once I saw the size chart though, I realised that my husband is just out of the 4x size range. No problem though! It’s simple to grade a basic pattern like this up or down a size, and today I’m going to show you how.

You will need:

Let’s start grading! 

There are many ways to grade up a pattern. For a simple knit pattern like the Sayward, I’m going to show you a straightforward method that will give a good result going up or down 1 or 2 sizes without too much fuss. If you want a more precise method for more complex patterns, I recommend this Craftsy class!

Step 1: Measurements! 

Take measurements, and compare them to the size chart. The key thing here is to look at how many inches you’ll want to add or subtract to make the pattern fit!

In this case, I want the chest and shoulders to be about one size bigger, which means I’ll want to make the sleeves one size bigger too so that the seams match up nicely. In the waist and hip, I need to add an average of 6″ of ease. If I was adding that much to a children’s pattern, I would worry about distorting the proportions, but on a shirt for a big guy, it won’t be a problem.

At this point, you’ll also want to pay attention to height, and any fit preferences like extra length, shorter sleeves, etc.

Step 2: Grading up or down a size!

It’s time to lay out your pattern and start adjusting! The process is the same if you are grading up or down.

Essentially, we are going to continue the grading rule for the existing sizes to create a smaller or larger size. The way the existing sizes are nested will be our guide for how much to add or subtract!

In red, I’m grading the shoulders and sleeves up one size. I look at the distance between size 3x and 4x, and draw a new line the same distance out to create a 5x. In blue, I’m grading down to an XXS.

The process is the same for the front, back, and neckband. Pay attention to when the nested pattern lines get closer together or further apart along a curve!

3. Adding or Subtracting Ease

If one part of the shirt needs more or less ease, like the arms or torso, you may want to do more than just grade up or down the existing proportions.

For example, I only needed to grade the top part of the shirt up 1 size, but I want to add about 6″ of width from the underarm down. That means I need to add about 1 1/2″ to the front and back side seams.

To add ease, I straightened out the side seam, and simple drew a straight line down from the underarm to add more width. You could do the same in reverse to make the shirt slimmer.

(Side note: As a plus-size women, I often make similar adjustments for my pear-shaped figure. I might add a wedge to the side seam or centre front/back which results in a fun, swingy shape. For a traditionally masculine fit though, I chose to keep the side seams in this shirt straight and vertical. In sewing there are so many ways to approach each adjustment, so just keep the wearer’s preferences in mind!)

This is the point to adjust things like height, sleeve length, or neckline! For my version, I’m going to add 3″ in length and 2″ to the sleeve length because my husband prefers that look.

4. True the Seams

The final step whenever you adjust a pattern is to cut it out and make sure that all the seams still match up nicely.

Compare the front and back to each other to make sure the shoulders, side seam and length are identical on both pattern pieces. This is basically your chance to catch any errors, like adding more to the front than the back! Lay the curved raglan seam over the front and back pieces and “walk” them together to make sure the seam lines match. (Remember that the seam allowance is 5/8″, so that is where the length needs to match!)

I added a 1/2″ wedge to the sleeve side seams to help balance the extra width I added to the torso of the shirt, and I’ll ease any extra width as I sew. With a knit pattern, a few millimetres here or there won’t matter!

5. Sew! 

If you have made significant changes to the pattern, it is always a good ideas to sew a quick trial version in cheep fabric. I made my tester version in slightly-sheer turquoise crinkle knit, which you can imagine was quite a look! Once you know your adjustments are right, then sew it up in nice fabric.

Here’s the finished Sayward Raglan!

We are both really happy with it! Raglan sleeves are new for him, but I think they look great. He likes the neckline and length, but wants another inch on the sleeves next time. I’m pleased with the fit in the torso – not too tight, but also not too baggy.

The great thing about a basic tee like this is you can perfect that pattern to reflect the wearer’s preferred fit and style. Jamie is an avid Fantastic Four fan (that’s an FF tattoo on his arm, and on my leg too), so he chose the team colours of royal blue and black. The fabric is a 95% cotton/5% spandex blend, which was a pleasure to sew!

And here’s how he’ll often wear it – layered with his “battle vest” covered in the nerdiest patches and pins!


So there you have it – the Sayward Raglan graded out to a 5x, and tailored to the wearer’s taste!

Once you’ve used this method a few times, you may find you don’t need to use a ruler and draw out your adjustments. I tend to grade up or down on the fly as I cut the paper pattern, or as I’m cutting out fabric. It just depends on your comfort level with grading and sewing knits!

Do you grade patterns up or down for yourself or others? It’s a useful skill for getting the most out of patterns, either as children grow, or to make one pattern work for many different figures! I’d love to hear how you approach grading, or if this tutorial works for you!



Coming up later today, we will actually sew the Sayward…perhaps the quickest part of this sew-along!  See you later!

October 12, 2023
Jutland Sew-Along: Extra - Adding a Gusset and Removable Knee Pads

Jutland Sew-Along: Extra - Adding a Gusset and Removable Knee Pads

Today we’re going to talk about creating removable knee pads and we will be adding a gusset to the Jutland Pants!  I’m adding both of these features to the heavy work pants I’m making for my Uncle.  My inspiration is the brand of pants my Uncle likes to wear (Kühl) which always include a gusset.

Creating Removable Knee Pads

Let’s start with the easiest job today – I’ll show you how I’ve altered the knee patches to create pockets for knee pads!  You can use these to insert store-bought knee pads or you can simply add some padding of your choice.  I bought some foam alternative from my local fabric store which is really just a lofty synthetic batting.  I cut two rectangles the size of the knee patch minus seam allowances.

To make the knee patches into pockets I bound the top edge and then pressed it under 5/8″.  If your fabric isn’t overly bulky you could fold the raw edge under instead of binding it.  I avoided this because I didn’t want to add that much bulk to my side and inseams.  I finished this edge by top stitching and edge stitching along the fold.


Next, I added the velcro to the top edge of the knee patch and stitched it in place using a rectangular stitch pattern as pictured above.


I folded under the bottom edge of the knee patch and pressed as directed in the instructions.  I Placed the knee patch on the pant leg so that the finished edges matched the provided notches.  I marked where matching velcro needed to be added to the pant leg and removed the knee patch.  I stitched the velcro on to the pant leg.


To finish my knee pad pocket, I pinned the knee patch back in place and basted within the seam allowances along the side seam and inseam.  I top stitched and edge stitched along the bottom horizontal edge.

Remember to leave the top edge free of stitching!  You now have a pocket to which knee pads may be added and removed while the pants are worn or washed.

That was a pretty easy way to warm up…so now lets move on to a little pattern drafting!  Let’s create a gusset:

What is a gusset?

Let’s talk a little about what a gusset is and what purpose it serves.  A gusset is a diamond or triangular piece of fabric that is inserted into a garment.  This piece of material can be added for several entirely different reasons:

Gusset underarm

(Photo of underarm gusset from blog Reves Mecanique)

  • To add room and flexibility:  A gusset can be added to the underarm of a tight woven dress as in the tutorial on Gertie’s Blog For Better Sewing or to the crotch of jeans such as the famous “Chuck Norris Jeans” to add width without loosing structure and a close fit.

Chuck Norris

(Photo of advert from Chris’s Invincible Super-Blog)

  • To prevent seam allowances from creating bulk: A gusset can be used to prevent many seams from meeting in one area.  Lulu Lemon’s ABC (anti ball crushing) Pants, designed to be all-purpose trousers for active men, use a gusset to prevent the Centre Back, Centre Front, and both inseams from meeting at one point.  When a person is crouched or sitting smooth fabric will press against them rather than a big mash of seams.  You can see a review of the pants complete with a look at the shape of the gusset in this YouTube video.


  • To add strength: A gusset is a good way to add strength at high stress points.  The diamond or triangular shape disperses the stress to it’s various points rather than allowing the stress to concentrate at the one area where all the seams join.  The All American Clothing Company provides two photos and a description explaining how the stress is dispersed when sitting.
  • To save fabric: The use of gussets on plus size pants is quite common as a fabric saving measure during manufacturing.  Adding a gusset, as you will see in the tutorial below, causes the crotch curve on the pants Front and Back pieces to be considerably reduced.  This makes them far easier to place side by side on fabric as they are much more rectangular in shape and narrower than classic pants pattern pieces.

How to Draft a Gusset

For my Uncle’s pants, I decided to create a gusset that does not add a lot of extra room in the crotch since this was not necessary for the pants to fit him well.  I mostly just want to disperse stress and add a little bit of flexibility.  Since this is the case, it was necessary for me to remove fabric from the pants Front and Back before adding it by sewing in a gusset.

Gusset Tutorial-01

Since the Jutland Pants include seam allowance, it is a good idea to mark all the seam lines on the pattern before beginning any pattern alterations.  When altering the pattern, only work on the actual pattern and don’t work within the seam allowances.

  1. Once all seam allowances are marked, draw in the desired shape and size of your gusset.  My shape is indicated by the orange shading.  I created a gusset that was 4″ along the inseam and then is larger in the back of the pants than the front.  I made mine small enough (I hope!) that it won’t be visible when the pants are worn because the entire gusset will be hidden in the crotch.
  2. Now that the actual gusset area is marked, you need to add new seam allowances to the pants before cutting the gusset area off of the pattern pieces.  You can see the new seam allowances indicated with black lines.  Remember, they are being added to the pants pattern so they will cut into the gusset shape that you just drew.  I connected this new seam allowance with the existing inseam seam allowance and the crotch curve seam allowance.
    Gusset Tutorial-02
  3. Trace the two gusset pattern pieces onto new paper (using tracing paper or by holding the pattern piece up to a window and tracing with regular paper on top of it).  Remember that the gusset shape is the orange shaded area.
  4. Once your gusset pattern pieces are recorded (NOT before!) you are ready to cut into the Jutland Pants Front and Back.  Cut along the new seam allowances that you created.  Your Pants Front and Back pieces are now complete.Gusset Tutorial-03
  5. Above is a diagram explaining how the gusset elements that you traced onto new paper merge to become the actual pattern piece.  You will see that the shapes don’t fit together perfectly to create a diamond (the skinny slivers have a gap in the centre as you can see in diagram one).  This is okay – by adjusting the shape slightly you will be adding a little more room and thus flexibility into your pants.  You can either trace around the rough diamond shape to create a pointed diamond or you can round the corners as I have for what I hope will be a more pleasing gusset shape reminiscent of the Lulu Lemon ABC gusset.  If you would like to cut your gusset on the fold, you can do so (as in diagram 3) because it is symmetrical!  Oh…and don’t forget to add seam allowances to your gusset pattern piece!

I will be covering how to add the gusset into the Jutland Pants on Friday when I show you how to sew the Fly and Waistband (that’ll be a big post!).  This is because it is easiest to change the order of construction when adding a gusset.  In the Jutland instructions the fly is constructed near the end of the pants sewing process (so you can work up the confidence for that step!) but, for my Uncle’s pair of pants with a gusset, I will construct the fly and crotch seam first, add in the gusset and then sew the side and inseams.

In the meantime, come back tomorrow for a free pocket embroidery template and a screwdriver pocket template!

October 11, 2023