Sew-along with us!

Perhaps you'd like some company while you sew? We've sewn up each of our patterns and photographed each step along the way. Find the pattern you're after in the filter drop down below left.

Sombrio Polo Sew-Along: Day 1 - Brief History of the Polo Shirt & what you need to make your own!

Sombrio Polo Sew-Along: Day 1 - Brief History of the Polo Shirt & what you need to make your own!

Have you ever wondered about the history behind the classic polo shirt? The polo shirt, also known as a tennis shirt or golf shirt, has a rich history that dates back to the early 20th century.

Origins in India

The polo shirt goes back to the sport of polo, which originated in India in the 19th century. British soldiers in India, during the colonial period, were introduced to the game of polo by the locals. The soldiers adopted the sport and its attire, including the comfortable and breathable polo shirt and brought the polo shirt back home.

Rise to Popularity

As the sport of polo gained popularity in England and other parts of the world, so did the polo shirt. Famous French tennis player René Lacoste popularized the polo shirt in the 1920s. Lacoste, known for his style and innovative approach to sportswear, created a short-sleeved, piqué cotton shirt with a buttoned placket and a soft collar. This design was a departure from the traditional long-sleeved, button-up shirts worn by tennis players at the time.

Since then, the polo shirt has become a versatile and essential piece of clothing for men and women outside of the sporting world. Its timeless design, comfortable fit, and sporty aesthetic make it a go-to option for casual and semi-formal occasions. Whether you're hitting the golf course, heading to a casual Friday at the office, or simply running errands on the weekend, the polo shirt is a classic choice that never goes out of style.

What you need to make your own Polo Shirt

The characteristics of a Polo shirt come down to just a few things. Fit, a short front placket, collar, and specific fabrics. We've got the fit and constructions details for you with the Sombrio pattern, but here is some information on the other items you'll need!

Cotton Pique

Pique is a style of weaving fabric with a subtle texture. The construction of the weave can resemble different patterns, such as waffle, honeycomb, birds-eye, and bullseye. The texture and pattern can best be seen up close.

This is the most classic style of fabric to use for a casual Polo shirt. Pique can be made out of cotton or synthetic fabrics, woven or knit. For my Dad's Polo I used a stretch Pique cotton fabric from Mood Fabrics.
French Terry
Our Sombrio pattern has a short sleeve and long sleeve option. For our long sleeve version you can use a French terry, or similar sweater knit, for a classic rugby style Polo shirt. The collar can be made out of self fabric, but if that creates too much bulk, use a rib knit in a similar or contrasting color. We suggest using a rib knit for the long sleeve cuffs as self fabric may not stretch enough. Here are some examples from Blackbird Fabrics, they have an excellent selection of coordinating or matching knits and ribbing fabrics.
Athletic Knits
For a sporty style golf, or tennis shirt use a synthetic athletic wear specific knit, such as this Performance Spandex with moisture wicking and antimicrobial properties from Mood Fabrics.
Collar

A knit shirt without a collar is not a Polo! A collar is what defines the traditional Polo shirt and is the area on the shirt that can be most playful. Most ready to wear companies have the ability to knit their own collars to match the exact color of the shirt fabric. They can also knit their own contrast collars, or create collars with stripes as shown below. Nowadays it is a little harder to purchase premade collars in the correct size and color of fabric you are using to sew your own Polo. I was able to find some businesses on Etsy that sell premade knit collars, but they are a bit pricey and can take a while to ship. The colors are also limited. For the home sewist, the easiest way to create a Polo collar is with rib knit fabrics. If you are using a lighter weight knit fabric, you could use the self fabric for the collar.
Notions
To get a professional look on the front placket, I suggest using knit interfacing to help reinforce the fabric. If you are using a more stable knit fabric you might not need to use knit interfacing. Knit interfacing is very lightweight and stretches easily to match the stretch of your knit fabric. It can be helpful for the front placket to keep the edges and corners nice and straight.
Twill tape is used to reinforce the collar seam and hide the seam allowance.
Buttons can be another fun way to add a pop of detail to your Polo. Use contrast color buttons that stand out, or use clear, or similar colored buttons to your fabric for a more subtle look.
Now let's get to sewing!
August 20, 2024
Sombrio Polo Sew-Along: Day 2 - Front Placket & Back Yoke

Sombrio Polo Sew-Along: Day 2 - Front Placket & Back Yoke

Placket
Constructing a placket can often feel a little daunting. Not only does it contain buttons, it is one of the first things you notice when looking at a Polo shirt.  Don't worry though, if you approach this portion of construction slowly, read through the instructions before you begin, and mark the details on your fabric carefully, you will be surprised how quickly it comes together! I'll walk you through some tricks to get a perfectly straight, even, and professional looking placket. 
  
If you are using a lighter weight knit fabric I would highly advise using knit interfacing to reinforce your placket pieces. If you are using a more stable knit or thicker knit, like French Terry, you don't need to interface the placket pieces.
  
Transfer the rectangle sew line markings from the pattern to the wrong side of your fabric. I prefer to use chalk for this process but pencil or a fabric marking pen or even basting stitches can do the job! Include a line that goes down the center of the rectangle. Baste along the rectangle using a straight stitch. This will help keep your fabric from stretching or warping as you attach the placket pieces.
  
On the wrong side of your placket pieces, draw your 1/2" seam allowance from the top to the bottom of the placket, ending 1/2" from the bottom of the placket.
  
Flip your shirt so the fabric is right side up. Match the placket pieces to the center front, right sides together, aligning the drawn seam allowances with the edges of the basted rectangle. The bottom of the placket pieces will extend past the baste lines 1/2".
  
  
Using a regular stitch length and straight stitch, sew the placket to the front. Press the long edges of each placket piece to the wrong side at 1/2".
  
Cut along the center front line of the front from the neckline to 1/2" before the bottom of the rectangle. Clip from the center line to each corner at an angle. Make sure to clip as close as you can to the corners but be careful to not clip through!
  
  
We will finish the placket after attaching the collar in later steps.
  
Back Facing
  
Baste along the curved edge of the back facing at 5/8". Clip triangle notches into the seam allowance to the basting line. Press the seam allowance toward the wrong side.
 
  
Now would be a great time to add a decorative square or label to your shirt! You can see some great examples of how to decorate a back neckline facing in our Finlayson Sweater sew-along.
  
With wrong sides together, match the back facing to the back neckline. Edgestitch along the curved edge of the facing to attach to the shirt. Baste along the neckline and shoulders.
Are you happy with how your Polo is coming along? Come back tomorrow for the next sewing steps!
August 20, 2024
Sombrio Polo Sew Along: Day 3 - Sew Shoulders, Assemble & Attach Collar

Sombrio Polo Sew Along: Day 3 - Sew Shoulders, Assemble & Attach Collar

Today's sew along is going to cover a lot! We are going to attach the collar and finish the front placket. 
  
Sew Shoulders
  
Match the front and back together at the shoulders, right sides together, and stitch together at 5/8". For added reinforcement, you could sew a strip of twill tape to the shoulder seam allowance. Simply cut a strip of twill tape the length of the shoulder, match it to the shoulder and stitch the twill tape to the shoulder at the same time you are sewing the shoulder seam.
  
Assemble Collar
  
Fold the collar in half, right sides together, matching the notched edges. Stitch the short angled edges together using a straight or serge stitch. Trim and grade the seam allowances and clip the corners if you used a straight stitch.
  
Turn the collar right side out and neatly press. If desired, you can edge stitch and topstitch along the outer edges for a decorative detail.
  
Attach Collar
  
Match the collar to the neckline with right sides together. Align the notches at center back and shoulders. At the center front neckline, the raw edge of the collar will extend 1/2" past the placket seam. Make sure the placket and front seam allowance are facing toward center front. This construction is so that when finished, the collar edges will meet at center front rather than having a 1" gap between them.
  
Fold the placket pieces right sides together, matching the folded edge to the seam line, sandwiching the collar. Stitch around the neckline and placket with a straight stitch or serge at 5/8". 
Eventually the placket pieces will be turned right side out and will enclose part of the collar seam line. This would be a good time to double check that the collar and placket pieces are positioned and overlap correctly before moving on to the next steps. The folded edge of the placket should match to the placket seam line and there should be 1/2" of the placket extending past the collar. Adjust the pieces accordingly if needed. 
  
Now we will attach twill tape to the neckline seam allowance. Cut a strip of twill tape the length of the entire neckline edge, including the placket. Match the top edge of the twill tape to the stitch line along the neckline. The ends of the twill tape will stop just before the center fold of the placket pieces. This will help keep a nice corner at the top of the placket. Pin or use wash away tape to keep the twill tape in place.
Using a straight stitch, edgestitch along the top edge of the twill tape. It is very important that you are stitching the twill tape to the seam allowance only.
  
Turn the placket pieces right side out. Press the twill tape and seam allowance towards the front along the seam line. The twill tape will cover the raw edges of the seam allowance.
  
To stop the seam allowances from slipping upwards, using a straight stitch, edgestitch along the bottom edge of the twill tape. I started my stitching just after the placket seam line so my stitches would not be visible. You could start your stitches across the top of the placket if you want visible stitching. If you want to do this, make sure the placket pieces are positioned correctly, with the pressed edge of each placket matching the stitch line. 
This is when I decided to add my Thread Theory tag so that it was at the neckline. If you didn't add a tag or decorative square to your back facing piece you could add it at this step!
  
  
With the front right side up, fold the placket pieces away from center front to reveal the triangle cut out at the bottom of the placket. Neatly press the triangle flap to the wrong side of the front, making sure to create a straight folded line.
Fold the placket  pieces towards center front. Push the bottom edges of the placket to the wrong side of the front through the opening. Position the placket pieces so that the left front placket is overlapping the right front placket.
  
Fold the front away from the placket pieces to reveal the narrow edges and triangle cut out. Using a straight stitch, stitch through all layers as close to the base of the triangle as possible. Be very careful to not stitch through the front fabric. 
  
Finish the edges together using a zig-zag or serge stitch.
  
  
  
Flip the front right side up. Edgestitch along the seam lines of both placket pieces, making sure to catch the pressed edges of the placket underneath.
At the bottom of the placket, use a straight stitch to stitch either a small rectangle or square and decorative “X” through all layers.
Wow, we are on the home stretch now! Your Polo will be completed in the next post.

 

August 20, 2024
Sombrio Polo Sew Along: Day 4 - Sleeves + Hem

Sombrio Polo Sew Along: Day 4 - Sleeves + Hem

Attach Sleeves and Sew Side seams (All Variations)
  
This is my favorite way to attach sleeves and can be done with almost every kind of sleeve (even a woven set in sleeve!) 
  
Open up one armhole edge of the shirt with the right side facing up. With right sides together and notches aligned, match the corresponding sleeve to the armhole. Stitch the sleeve to the armhole at 5/8" using a zig-zag, stretch stitch or serge.
  
Now, match the entire front and back side seam and underarm edges together. In one long seam, stitch the underarm and side seams together at 5/8" using a zig-zag, stretch stitch, or serge.
  
  
Variation 1 Finish Sleeve
  
Since I am using a thicker and sturdier knit for my polo shirt, I decided to use ribbing for my sleeve cuffs. If you are using a lighter weight or very stretchy knit fabric you could use self fabric for your sleeve cuff.
  
Fold the sleeve cuff right sides together matching the short edges. Stitch the short edges together at 5/8" using a straight stitch or serge.
  
  
Turn the sleeve cuff right side out. Now, fold the cuff in half matching the long edges, with wrong sides together. 
  
With right sides together match the sleeve cuff to the sleeve opening, aligning the underarm and cuff seams. Stretch the cuff to fit the sleeve opening. 
  
  
Stitch together at 5/8" using a zig-zag, stretch stitch or serge.
  
 
All Variations: Hem
  
We are now at the final step to complete your Polo shirt!
  
Once again, due to my sturdy and thick knit fabric, I decided to do a single fold and stitch method for finishing my hem.
  
First, I serged around the entire bottom of my hem
  
  
Next, I pressed my hem to the wrong side at 1" and pinned in place.
  
  
From the right side of my fabric I stitched a single straight stitch 3/4" up from the folded edge of my hem. If you have a twin needle, you could stitch this part with your twin needle for a more ready to wear look! Be careful to not pull or stretch your fabric as you are stitching the hem in place.
  
  
Another method for finishing the hem is a double fold method. First, fold the raw edge to the wrong side at 3/8". Then, fold again up at 5/8". Give the hem a good press and pin in place. To finish the hem, use a zig-zag or stretch stitch to edgestitch along the top folded edge. 
  
Your Sombrio Polo is now ready to be worn! Congrats! Feel free to share your photos on social media using #sombriopolo or email us at info@threadtheory.ca. We would love to see what you've made!
August 20, 2024
Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 1: Gathering Materials

Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 1: Gathering Materials

The Timberland Henley, the newest member of our Parkland Collection and women's version of the Strathcona Henley, is a casual everyday wear garment to add to your wardrobe. This pattern comes in two variations, has a scoop neckline, and a curved hem that is lower in the back. You can choose between long or short sleeves, chest pockets, or add a Henley placket to the front neckline. In our sew-along, we will go over detailed instructions on how to assemble a Henley placket in two ways. 

To begin, pick which variation you would like to make. Then, pick your size.

Please refer to your instruction booklet on how to take your measurements and determine which size works best for you. You can also refer to our Woodley Tee Sew-along where we go into similar detail on which measurements to account for, and which ones you can adjust on the pattern. 

If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it is very important to use our lengthen/shorten lines provided on the front and back pattern pieces. Due to the curvature of the hemline, it is best to make adjustments at the lengthen/shorten lines to keep the correct shape of the hem. 

 

Fabric

When choosing fabric for your Timberland Henley, we highly suggest picking out a cozy light to medium-weight knit fabric that will soften over time. A medium-weight knit will be easier to sew with, especially if you are planning to make the Henley placket detail. A lightweight knit fabric may be a little trickier to sew with but could make for a perfect summer lounge tee. If you are not sure what type of fabric to look for, think of your favorite t-shirt that you already own and check the fabric weight and content. 

 

When designing the Timberland Henley, we had a vision of a traditional Henley shirt made in waffle knit fabric that could be a great stand-alone or layering piece. Waffle knit fabrics tend to be more available in cooler weather seasons. For our photo sample, we used a waffle knit from Blackbird Fabrics that unfortunately sold out quickly. We hope they bring it back for next fall/winter ;)

 

Here are some recommendations for online stores that are currently carrying waffle knit fabrics:

Organic cotton waffle knit from I See Fabric

Cotton/spandex waffle knit from Style Maker Fabrics

Here are some non-waffle knit fabrics that are also great for creating the Timberland T-shirt variation:

Hemp/organic cotton jersey knit from Blackbird Fabrics

Mid-weight cotton jersey from Style Maker Fabrics

 

Some fun bold stripe cotton interlock fabric from Blackbird Fabrics

 

Optional: Use a matching or contrast ribbing for the neckband of your Timberland Henley or t-shirt. Check your favorite fabric store for their rotating stock on ribbing fabrics. Pictured here is ribbing from Blackbird Fabrics

 

The only hardware needed for the Timberland Henley is snaps or buttons for the placket variation. You can choose to use sew-on snaps, set-in snaps, or buttons.

Getting Started:

Before our next installment of the Timberland Henley Sew-along refer to our previous tutorials and posts about helpful tips to set up your sewing machine, get your sewing space ready, and how to cut out your pattern pieces from knit fabric:

How to sew with knits

Check out these tools and accessories from our Haberdashery that could help create your Timberland Henley:

July 23, 2024
Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 2: Placket #1

Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 2: Placket #1

Variation 1: Henley Placket
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the two placket pieces. Transfer all markings to the front neckline for the placket.
TIP: Before stitching the placket, baste around the rectangle marking at the center front using a straight stitch. This can help you get perfectly straight lines and corners when sewing the placket in later steps.
Match the two placket pieces to the center front at the markings.
Match the right sides of the placket pieces to the wrong side of the front.
Using a straight stitch, sew the placket pieces to the front. Start at the neckline and stitch down to the bottom edge of the front rectangle marking. 
Press the long edges of each placket piece to the wrong side at 1/2" (1.25 cm). Cut the front fabric onlyalong the centerline. Cut from the neckline to the tip of the triangle marking. Clip from the tip of the triangle at an angle to the end of each placket stitch line, creating a short triangle flap. Be very careful to not clip the placket fabric, or clip past the placket stitch lines
TIP: Clip a taller triangle piece than what is marked by cutting down the center front to about 3/4" (1.9 cm) before the placket stitch lines. Making a taller triangle piece can be helpful when folding this piece in later steps, especially if you are using a lightweight knit
Fold the placket pieces in half, sandwiching the seam allowances.
Push the bottom edges of the placket to the right side of the front through the opening.
Lay the front right side facing up, and position the placket pieces so that the right placket is overlapping the left placket. The placket pieces should overlap each other evenly at 1" (2.5 cm). Re-press the placket pieces if needed so they overlap evenly.
Using a needle and thread, baste the placket pieces in place. Using a slip stitch, sew the folded outer edges of each placket to the stitch lines.
Topstitch along the basted edges of each placket stopping just before the end of the placket stitch line.
Tidy up the bottom of the placket pieces. Clip the bottom edge of the left placket piece to about 3/8" (1 cm). Fold under the bottom edge of the right placket piece so no raw edges are exposed. Press.
Using a needle and thread, slip stitch the bottom edge of the front opening (the top of the triangle cut out) to the placket.
Using a needle and thread, stitch the bottom of the right placket in place, securing it to the front.
On the right side bottom of the placket, use a straight stitch to stitch a square and decorative “X” to reinforce the placket.
July 23, 2024
Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 3: Pocket and Placket #2

Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 3: Pocket and Placket #2

For this portion of the sew-along have ready the front, two front placket pieces, and the chest pocket.
Press the top edge of the front pocket to the wrong side 1" (2.5 cm).
Using a straight stitch, stitch 3/4" (1.9 cm) down from the folded edge.
Press under remaining front pocket edges 5/8" (1.5 cm). Reduce bulk if desired by trimming corners and even seam allowances to 3/8" (1 cm) or narrower.
Line up the front pocket with the markings on the front. Pin. 
Using a straight stitch, edgestitch around the front pocket. For reinforcement, stitch narrow triangles at the top corners of the front pocket opening. Do this by pivoting at the corners, stitching a few stitches along the top fold of the front pocket, pivot, and stitch at an angle towards the edgestitch line.
Transfer all markings to the center front neckline for the placket.
Cut from the neckline to the tip of the triangle marking. Clip from the tip of the triangle at an angle to the end of each placket stitch line marking, creating a short triangle flap. Be very careful to not clip past the marking lines.
TIP: Clip a taller triangle piece than what is marked by cutting down the center front to about 3/4" (1.9 cm) before the placket stitch lines. Making a taller triangle piece can be helpful when folding this piece in later steps, especially if you are using a lightweight knit.
Fold the placket pieces in half lengthwise, matching the long edges, and press.
With the right sides together match the placket pieces to the front of the placket opening.
Using a straight stitch, stitch from the neckline down to the bottom of the rectangle placket marking at 1/2" (1.25 cm).
Finish the seam allowances together using a zig-zag, serge, or stretch stitch.
Press the placket pieces towards the center front. 
Press the triangle flap and bottom edges of the placket pieces to the wrong side of the front.
With the right side facing up, overlap the right placket piece with the left.
Neatly press and make sure they are evenly overlapped.
Lift up the hem of the front to expose the triangle cut-out and the two bottom edges of the placket pieces. Pin and stitch the layers together using the fold line created from pressing the triangle flap as a stitch guide.
Finish the edges together using a zig-zag, serge, or stretch stitch.
(view from the wrong side of the front)
Optional: To keep the seam allowances in place, topstitch around the placket opening making sure to catch the seam allowances underneath.
July 23, 2024
Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 4: Neckband, Sleeves, Hem

Timberland Henley Sew-Along - Day 4: Neckband, Sleeves, Hem

For this portion of the sew-along please have ready the front, back, sleeves, and neckband pieces.
Finish the raw edge of the front and back hem using a serge or zigzag stitch.
Fold the hem to the wrong side of the front at 3/4" (1.9 cm). Press.
Pin in place.
Using a single straight stitch, or double needle straight stitch, sew the hem in place. Repeat for the back hem.
TIP: Before folding the hem, make a basting stitch along the hem allowance line, using a straight stitch and long stitch length. This will make it easier to fold along the curved edge of the hem. Instead of using pins, use fusible tape to keep the hem allowance in place.
With the right sides together match the front and back at the shoulder seams. 
Pin and stitch. Finish the seam allowances together and press towards the back.
Variation 1 Henley Neckband:
Fold the neckband in half with the wrong sides together aligning notches. Press.
Variation 2 Scoop Neckband: 
With the right sides together, match and stitch along the short edges of the neckband so that the strip of the neckband becomes a loop. Press the seam open. 
Fold the neckband in half with the wrong sides together aligning notches. Press.
All variations:
With the right sides together match the neckband to the neckline. Stitch. Finish the seam allowances together.
Variation 1 Henley Neckband:
The center front most edge of the neckband should extend past the placket about 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Fold the corner to the wrong side of the placket and wedge it under the seam allowance. Give it a good press. 
Topstitch along the front neckline to keep the neckband seam allowances in place. Use a long straight stitch or a zig-zag stitch.
Add twill tape or bias binding to the back neck and shoulder seam allowances following the instructions.
With right sides together and notches aligned, match and sew the sleeves to the armholes. Finish the seam allowances together. Press the seam allowances towards the body.
With right sides together, notches and underarms aligned, match the front and back together at one side seam. Sew the seam using a zig-zag, stretch stitch, or serge. Press the seam allowances towards the back.
Hem the sleeves.
Tack down the side seam allowances at the hem.
Make sure to trim all threads and give your garment a good press. 
July 23, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 1 - Gathering Materials and Choosing a Size

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 1 - Gathering Materials and Choosing a Size

Welcome to the Bamberton Shorts Sew-along! We hope you'll enjoy making these wonderfully comfortable shorts. No matter the variation you choose you have some satisfying construction processes ahead of you.
First let's go ahead and select which design details you plan to sew:
Will you work on some welt pockets? Or add flapped patch pockets? Would you like a knit waistband (soft and comfortably casual, coordinating or contrasting with your main material) or woven (more structured, easier to match exactly to your main material)? Would you like to add contrast details by picking a secondary color for your side panels and even pockets or waistband?
The Bamberton Shorts are best sewn in light to medium weight woven fabrics. Their gathered waistband and wide legs makes them unsuitable for stiffer/heavier weight materials such as canvas. Avoid anything that is too crisp so that the gathers will sit nicely. Batiste, lightweight twills and even quilting cotton will work nicely.
Try a summery seersucker:
An elegant linen:
A sporty quick-dry material:
The Bamberton Shorts are available in two formats in our shop - a women's/curvy pattern and a men's/straight pattern. They feature the exact same design details with the only differences being the body measurement charts they were drafted to fit and the inseam length. The men's pattern has a longer leg than the women's pattern. Both patterns can be easily adjusted to have any inseam length you prefer!
There is a line that you can use to slash and spread or shorten the pattern and instructions included on how to do this within the booklet.
Within the women's and men's patterns are two seperate patterns - one for a smaller size range and one for a larger range. Have a close look at the charts below to find the pattern that suits your dimensions best:
If your hip and waist ration differs from any of the Body Measurement charts above, not to worry! We have graded these patterns to include MANY sizes and nested the pattern pieces in such a way that you can easily grade between the sizes that match your waist an hip measurements. There are also many fitting suggestions within the instruction booklet.
Now that you've decided on a style and size, let's gather the rest of the details before we begin to sew. Aside from fabric, as discussed above, you will also need to select the following notions:
  • Ribbed Knit Material (if you've chosen to sew a knit waistband): Look for 1X1 ribbing that is quite thin. Anything thicker than t-shirt weight will result in a waistband that is too bulky. If you're choosing a knit waistband for comfort, I'd recommend finding something made from bamboo or a bamboo/cotton blend...so soft!

  • Pocket Lining Material: This can simply be your main/self fabric or you can have fun by adding a secret print (quilting cotton or other thin material) or something suited to your intended purpose for the shorts. For example, if you're sewing quick-dry activewear or swimwear you could look for a mesh material that keeps your shorts light and quick-drying.

  • Elastic: The pattern calls for 3/4" elastic which is narrower than the finished waistband. The elastic fits within the drawstring channel so the area above and below the elastic is left unstructured for a very casual looking effect and a comfortable unconstrained feeling when worn. If you prefer a more structured waistband you can choose elastic up to 1 1/2" thick to fill the entire waistband and provide more firm support around the waist. Simply widen the drawstring channel topstitching to match the width of the elastic you chose. Look for braided elastic and, if you are sewing the shorts as swimwear, look for chlorine resistant elastic specifically. If you have a woven elastic in your stash this could work too as long as it isn't especially thick and rigid. The main aim is comfort here!

  • Interfacing: Any light to medium weight woven interfacing will work! It is used to add structure to the drawstring buttonholes and some of the other small design details.
  • Drawstring Cord: The cord you choose can really alter the look of the finished shorts. If you're after something beachy and summery, choose a double woven 5mm cotton cord and simply knot the fraying ends. If you'd like to create activewear, search for something flat like a shoe lace (in a pinch, if you want to shop local and can't find the cord you are after, simply repurpose two shoelaces by sewing them together to create your cord. The seam where they join will be hidden in your drawstring casing).

  • Thread: Remember to select thread colors to suit each of your contrast details unless you want visible topstitching!
  • 2 Buttons (for the patch pocket variation): Any flat style of button measuring 5/8" will work here. Avoid anything with a shank and much depth as these buttons will be sat on!
  • Aglets (optional): If you are knotting your drawstring ends you will not need aglets. Likewise, if you are using shoelaces, your aglets will already be installed. There are many styles of aglets or drawstring end caps. You could even add beads to the end of your drawstrings to contribute to the overall style of the shorts!

June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 2 - Back Welt Pockets

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 2 - Back Welt Pockets

Today we begin sewing our shorts. First, apply your interfacing to the pocket facings and waistband. Next, add interfacing to the relevant pocket pieces. This post will be all about the welt pockets, please skip ahead to Day 3 to learn how to sew the patch pockets.
Prepare the welt pocket bags by first finishing the edges of your welt facings with a serger or zig zag stitch. Alternatively, you could fold under the long raw edges 1/4-3/8" but keep in mind this will add some bulk.
Position the facings onto the pocket bags (wrong side of the facing against the right side of the pocket bag) using the notches to guide you. Pin and edgestitch them in place.
Next, prepare the shorts back pieces for the pockets by transferring all the necessary markings. I like to use a regular pencil for this but, depending on your fabric choice, you may need to use a light colored chalk or a washable fabric marker or even basting stitches in a contrast thread for this marking.
Double check that your welt markings are drawn at exactly the same position on both shorts by lining up the shorts with right sides together and peeking to check that the markings align perfectly. You woul not want to create shorts with one pocket higher than the other!
Now we can prepare the actual welt pieces by folding them in half with wrong sides together. If you like to keep the welts from shifting around you can optionally baste them within the seam allowance as pictured above. The less moving parts we have to work with in the next few steps, the better!
Place the welts on the shorts back with raw edges together centered over the welt markings. Note that the welts are longer than the drawn marking. They should be centered over the marking.
To stitch them in place, use a very short stitch to slow yourself down and allow the stitching lines to be very precise. Make the stitching lines match the penciled in marking as precisely as possible.
Push the raw edges of the welts out of the way and cut across the center of the welt markings. Cut a diagonal to each corner. Snip as close to the last welt stitch as possible as this will create crisp corners later on.
Push the welt flaps through the opening you just cut. The end result will be that the raw seam allowance is on the wrong side of the shorts back and the folded welt edges are now facing each other.
Press the welt pieces and pocket opening to form a neat rectangle. From the right side it will look as above and from the wrong side it will look as below:
While the pocket looks finished from the outside, there are some more very important steps to go! Let's secure the welt in place now. Fold the shorts back to expose the small triangle on each narrow end of the welt. Stitch veritcally across the triangle. You can see in the photo that we did this stitching after adding the pocket bag. In the instruction booklet we have you do it before. Either works!
Now it is time to add the pocket bag. On the wrong side of the shorts, flip up the bottom welt and pinch all raw edged layers. You will be sewing only these layers to the pocket bag. Let the rest of the shorts fall away from these pinched layers.
To attach the pocket bag we will be working with the end farthest from the pocket facing (the bottom of the pocket bag).
Place the pocket bag under the shorts with the right side up. Pin it to the bottom welt seam allowance that we exposed by pinching earlier.
Stitch across the entire seam allowance. Press the pocket bag away from the welt opening:
Flip to the right side of the shorts and edgestitch through the welt/shorts/pocket bag along the bottom of the welt. You can see below that we edgestitched along the sides at this point too. It is better to wait until the pocket bag is complete to stitch along the side of the welt so please ignore this stitching for now!
Back on the wrong sides of the shorts, fold up the pocket bag along the notch. Press along the new bottom of the pocket. The pocket facing should be centered over the welt opening.
Pin the pocket edges together (keep the shorts back out of the way for this step).
Stitch the pocket bag edges and finish with a serger or zig zag sittch. Baste across the top of the pocket bag and shorts to keep it in place.
From the right side edgestitch around the rest of the welt pocket through all layers (including the pocket bag).
And there you have it! A functioning and attractive welt pocket that won't sag due to all our careful stitching efforts!
June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 3- Back Patch Pockets

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 3- Back Patch Pockets

Today we are sewing the back patch pockets for Variation 1 and 3 of the Bamberton shorts. Before we begin, make sure that two of your four back pocket flaps are interfaced.

Assemble the flaps by placing one interfaced and one non-interfaced flap with right sides together. Repeat for the second flap. Sew around the sides and bottom edge using a 5/8" seam allowance. Reduce bulk if needed by grading one seam allowance shorter than the other and by clipping the corners.

 

Flip the pocket flaps right side out and press crisply. Finish them off by topstitching and/or edgestitching. Depending on the look you are after for your shorts you might like to complete your shorts with minimalist edgestitching 1/8" from the pocket flap edge (and then repeat this style of stitching whereever topstitching or edgestitching is called for. This is a great look for color blocked shorts and swim shorts in particular.

To create a more rugged look, add a second row of stitching 1/4" inwards. This is called topstitching. It is a great choice aesthetically for hiking shorts and any shorts sewn with a more rigid and sturdy fabric.

Complete the flaps by creating a vertical buttohole to suit the size of your chosen button.

Let's move on to the patch pockets themselves. Above you can see we've finished the raw edges of the pocket. This is optional and is a nice way to prevent wear on the pockets if they will be used often as the constant in an out of a phone or wallet can fray unfinished edges.

Turn under the pocket hem along the first notch. Turn under again at the second notch to create a wide hem. Press.

Stitch across the pocket opening hem to secure it. Our instructions suggest stitching from the right side of the pocket to ensure the most attractive stitching on the outside of the garment but you can also stitch from the wrong side if you are happy with how your bobbin stitches are performing.

 

Turn the remaining edges under using 5/8" seam allowances. Press thoroughly.

Place the pocket onto the shorts back using the pocket placement markings. I like to pin the pockets in place and then hold the two shorts back pieces with right sides together to ensure that the pockets are exactly aligned with each other.

Stitch around the pocket sides and bottom using 1/8" edgestitching and the optional extra row of topstitching. If only adding edgestitching, you can add a sturdy upper corner to your pockets by completing your edgestitching with a small triangle shape as pictured above.

Add the flap above the patch pockets by placing it pointed up with the right side of the flap (the more attractive side of the buttonhole) facing the right side of the shorts. Align the raw flap edge with the top of the pocket. Stitch 5/8" up along the pocket flap markings.

Trim the excess seam allowance from the pocket flap. Press the pocket flap down.

Stitch the pocket flap down by edge stitching and top stitching across the top of the flap. This will also enclose the raw seam allowance.

 

Repeat this process for the second pocket and flap. Add the buttons to your pockets at the marking. And now your pockets are complete!

June 05, 2024
Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 4 - Back and Front Seat Seams

Bamberton Shorts Sew-Along: Day 4 - Back and Front Seat Seams

Today we will complete the back and front seat (or crotch) seams on our Bamberton Shorts.
Begin by aligining the two shorts back pieces with right sides together. Stitch along the curved seat seam using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances together using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Press the shorts back open with the seam allowances towards the left back. Stitch them in place by edgestitching from the right side of the shorts back. Optionally, add a row of topstitching 1/4" away for a faux flat fell seam. This creates a more rugged appearance reminiscient of jeans.
Now it's time to complete the front seat seam. This will be sewn at the same time as a mock fly.
Begin by placing the shorts fronts right sides tigether. Pin along the fly and seat seam and then stitch along the edge (following the curve of the fly) using a 5/8" seam allowance.
Next, mark the true center front using the notch at the waistline. This can be marked with chalk or a pencil and ruler. The line will extend from the notch down to the bottom of the curved fly and will meet with the stitching you just completed.

 

Sew along this center front line and then stitch the entire center front and seat seam a second time for added strength in this high wear area.

Open up the shorts front and position them on your ironing surface with wrong side up. Press the mock fly and seam allowance towards the left front (if you were wearing the shorts).

Flip the shorts over so the right side is visible. Use the stitching template to mark the fly topstitching on the left front of the shorts (this is currently on the right side of your work surface).

Topstitch along this J-stitch line to secure the mock fly in place. Next, complete the seam underneath the fly by edgestitching 1/8" from the seam. Optionally, match the faux flat fell seam on the back of the shorts by adding a row of topstitching 1/4" from your edgestitching.

Next we will be assembling the fronts and backs along the inseam and side seams!

 

June 05, 2024