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Sew-Alongs
Jedediah Sew-Along | Getting Started
To get started for the Jedediah Pants Sew-along, please refer to the following links to gather everything you need to sew this pattern.
- Preparations - Fabric Requirements, Garment, and Body Measurements making bias binding from a vintage handkerchief
- Lengthening or Shortening a Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Learn how to adjust the length of the Jedediah Pants before cutting them into your fabric
- Grading to Create a Custom Fit Tutorial - If the body measurements given aren't a perfect match, consider grading to create a custom fit!
From our haberdashery here are some tools and notions that would be helpful for this project:
The Jedediah Pants Sew-Along will be separated into 5 segments for easy to follow, step-by-step images, and tutorials:
2. Finishing seams using bias binding and the flat felled seam method (back yoke, inseams, and side seams)
For inspiration check out #Jedediahpants on Instagram and our community Pinterest board
Jedediah Sew-Along | Front and back pockets
To assemble the front and back pockets you will need:
(1) Pants Front
(2) Pants Back
(3) Pocket Facing 1
(4) Pocket Facing 2
(5) Back Pocket
(10) Pocket Lining
Fold under the long, straight edges of the Pocket Facing 1 and Pocket Facing 2 pieces 5/8" (1.6 cm) to the wrong side. Press.
Pin the Pocket Facing pieces to the Pocket Lining matching notches and raw edges, making sure all pieces are lying completely flat.
TIP: If you are using a decorative lining, match the pocket facing pieces to the wrong side of the pocket lining fabric. This way, the decorative side of the pocket lining will be right side out when fully assembled.
Edgestitch along the folded edges of the pocket facing pieces.
Baste within the seam allowances around the remaining edges of the pocket facing pieces, securing the pocket facing pieces to the pocket lining.
With right sides together match the pocket to the front pant leg. Align the angled edge of the pocket facing 2 piece with the angled edge of the front pant. Stitch at 5/8" (1.6 cm) and finish the seam allowances together.
Open along the seam with the right sides facing up. Press the seam allowances towards the pocket.
Understitch along the pocket facing, catching the seam allowances underneath.
Sew the bottom of the pocket lining using a French seam. Fold the pocket lining along the notches, with the wrong sides together. NOTE: if you are using a decorative pocket lining match the right sides of the pocket lining together. Stitch along the bottom of the pocket lining from the centerfold to the edge of the facings at 3/8" (1 cm). Trim the seam allowances to 1/8" (0.3 cm).
Turn the pocket lining out so that the pocket facings are enclosed in the pocket lining. Press along the bottom edge of the pocket lining. Stitch along the bottom of the pocket lining at 1/4" (0.6 cm) to secure the interior raw edge.
Fold the pocket to the wrong side of the front pant leg, aligning with the waist and side seam edges. Baste the top and side edges to the pant front, matching notches, to keep the pocket positioned correctly.
OPTIONAL: Topstitch along the pocket opening.
Finish the top edge of the back pocket pieces. If you haven’t done so already, transfer decorative pocket stitching markings to your pocket pieces (or design your own!). You could use a normal polyester thread or a thicker topstitching thread to stitch your design.
Fold each back pocket along the topmost notched fold line with the right sides together. Sew at 5/8" (1.6 cm) through both layers. Trim your seam allowance to 1/4" (0.6 cm).
Turn the pocket right side out. Use a point turner to create crisp corners at the top of the pocket.
Press the remaining seam allowances to the wrong side of the back pocket pieces at 5/8" (1.6 cm). Press neatly.
Stitch at 1/2" (1.3 cm) along the top edge of the back pocket to secure the top edge.
Line up the back pockets with the markings on the back pant. Pin pocket carefully in place (be sure to have the correct pocket on the corresponding pant leg so that the decorative stitching points in the right direction). Edgestitch around the pocket. Form a triangle of stitching at both top corners for reinforcement.
You have completed the pockets for the Jedediah Pants! Take a well-deserved break before diving into the next session.
Jedediah Sew-Along | Finishing seams (back yoke, inseams, and side seams)
To assemble the pants legs and create the seam finishes shown in this section of the sew-along please get ready:
- Front pant
- Back pant
- Back yoke
- Scissors
- Bias binding (optional)
For the back yoke and inseams, we will be using a flat felled seam to finish the seam allowances. Refer to the diagram in your instruction booklet for step-by-step illustrations.
With wrong sides together, match one back yoke to one back pant aligning notches. Stitch at 5/8" (1.6 cm). Press the seam open.
This step is very important to pay attention to. Trim ONLY THE LOWER seam allowance edge to 1/4" (0.6 cm). Do not trim the top seam allowance edge.
Press both seam allowances toward the back pant leg. Fold the TOP seam allowance edge around the LOWER trimmed seam allowance edge, securing the raw edges. The top seam allowance will now be about 3/8" (1 cm) wide. Edgestitch along the pressed folded edge to finish the seam.
Variation 1: Shaping the pant legs (see diagram in the booklet)
Lay out both Pant Leg Fronts with right sides together on your ironing board. Use the iron (with lots of steam) to stretch the areas indicated in the instruction booklet. By stretching these areas, and keeping the indicated areas short, the pant legs will better fit the contours of the leg and there will be less easing involved when sewing the side seam and inseams. Repeat for the back pant legs.
Your inseams and outseams will look slightly rippled as shown, but the seam will match up easier for the front and back legs.
Match the front and back legs together at the inseam. Finish the seam using a flat felled seam.
SIDE SEAMS OPTION 1:
With right sides together, match the front and back pant legs at the side seams, matching notches. Sew the seam, easing in any excess. Finish the seam allowances together and press towards the back leg.
SIDE SEAM OPTION 2:
With right sides together, match the front and back pant legs at the side seams, matching notches. Sew the seam, easing in any excess. Press open the seam allowance.
Bind the seam allowances with contrast or color to create an interesting detail on rolled cuffs. Use store-bought 1/4" (0.6) double-fold bias binding or make your own using a thin cotton fabric.
TIP: To reduce bulk at the hem, only bind the seam allowances to the hem fold line.
Place a bar tack or rivet just below 5/8" (0.6 cm) at the top of the pocket opening.
Extend bar tack from the side seam towards the center front at the point where the pocket opening edge meets the side seam.
Jedediah Sew-Along | Sewing a fly zipper
In this section, we will be sewing a fly zipper. Sewing a fly zipper can be challenging in that there are several steps and it is important to follow notches and markings exactly so that the zipper (and waistband in later steps) will line up correctly.
Drink some water, take some deep breaths and let's get started!
Before we begin please have ready:
- Zipper
- Zipper shield
- Scissors
- Fusible tape (optional)
- Marking pen and ruler
Double-check that all markings are transferred from your pattern to your front pant legs at the center front and the waist edge.
Finish the crotch seams and fly facing edges before you sew up the seat seam. Options include serging, zig-zagging, or binding.
Tip: If you are using a bulkier material you may want to avoid using binding for the seat seam — this is a better treatment for lighter weight pant fabrics.
Serging or zig-zagging the entire seam and then strengthening the seam using topstitching (this step is included later on in the instructions) will create a stronger and less bulky finish for these close-fitting pants.
Starting at the center back yoke, pin the two pant legs together along the crotch seam ensuring that all seams and notches match. This is quite tricky where the flat fell back yoke seam meets up and may take several tries.
Stitch until 1/2" (1.3 cm) below the zipper placement mark at the center front. Check that your seams line up nicely and reinforce this seam by stitching over it one or two more times (this is an area that needs to be very strong). Refrain from pressing this seam until you are finished sewing your fly.
Stitch until 1/2" (1.3 cm) below the zipper placement mark at the center front. Check that your seams line up nicely and reinforce this seam by stitching over it one or two more times (this is an area that needs to be very strong). Refrain from pressing this seam until you are finished sewing your fly.
Fold fly facing extensions under and press as follows (see the diagram in the instruction booklet and the image above for reference):
The Left Front (if you were wearing the pants) will act as the TOP, the most visible part of the fly. Fold and press the left front fly extension to the wrong side at the notch FURTHEST from the curved fly facing edge.
The Left Front (if you were wearing the pants) will act as the TOP, the most visible part of the fly. Fold and press the left front fly extension to the wrong side at the notch FURTHEST from the curved fly facing edge.
The Right Front (if you were wearing the pants) will be BEHIND the Left Front and will be folded and pressed at the notch CLOSEST to the curved fly facing edge. This will create a smaller facing and a 1/4" (0.6 cm) extension.
Apply interfacing to one of the zipper shield pieces.
With the right sides together match the two zipper shield pieces along the curved edges. Stitch along the long curve at 5/8" (1.6 cm).
Grade and clip the curves.
Turn the zipper shield right side out and press neatly. Serge or bind the remaining long edge.
Position the zipper shield so that the curved edge is facing towards the right and the serged or bound edge is to the left.
With the zipper facing up, place the zipper on the zipper shield. Match the edge of the zipper tape with the finished edge of the zipper shield.
Using a zipper foot, stitch along the LEFT side of the zipper close to the zipper teeth.
TIP: I find it easier to install zippers using a zipper that is a longer length than stated in the materials section. Using a longer zipper makes it easier to move the zipper pull out of the way when sewing. If using a longer zipper, match the bottom of the zipper with the bottom of the zipper shield. Let the top of the zipper tape and zipper pull extend beyond the top of the zipper shield.
TIP: Instead of using pins, use fusible tape to keep the zipper in place.
Using a zipper foot, edgestitch the zipper and zipper shield to the RIGHT FRONT PANT fly extension. Line up the pressed edge of the fly extension on top of the zipper and close to the zipper teeth. Sew to the circle zipper placement mark on the front pant. Make sure the zipper stop is lined up with the zipper placement mark, even if the zipper extends over the top of the pants. (If using a longer zipper, the zipper will extend over the top of the pants).
With the right sides facing you, set up the fly as it will look when it is finished (with 1/4" (0.6 cm) overlap). Place a pin through the right and left front at the center front to keep the pieces in this position.
Turn the pants around so you are looking at the wrong side of the RIGHT FRONT PANT. Lay the zipper flat (you will be looking at the underside of it) with the curved fly facing and zipper shield extended out.
Fold the zipper shield out of the way (as shown).
With the right sides together, line up the right-hand side of the zipper tape with the finished edge of the LEFT FRONT fly extension. Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the FLY EXTENSION ONLY. Make one line of stitching close to the zipper teeth, then make another closer to the edge of the zipper tape.
With the right sides together, line up the right-hand side of the zipper tape with the finished edge of the LEFT FRONT fly extension. Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the FLY EXTENSION ONLY. Make one line of stitching close to the zipper teeth, then make another closer to the edge of the zipper tape.
Turn the pants so you are once again looking at the right side. Use chalk or tape to mark your fly topstitching. Mark the topstitching 1" (2.5 cm) away from the folded edge, down the fly extension, and curved in toward the top of the crotch seam.
Fold the zipper shield out of the way once more – be very careful not to catch this during the next step.
Following the markings, you made in the previous step, topstitch along the LEFT FRONT catching the zipper and fly extension underneath.
Fold the zipper shield back under the zipper to its intended position and bar tack for 3/8" (1 cm) through all layers where shown. This area is often under a lot of pressure on casual pants.
UNZIP THE FLY ZIPPER and make sure the zipper pull is farthest away from the top of the pants.
Switch back to your regular presser foot. Within the seam allowance, at the waist edge, stitch horizontally over the zipper AND zipper teeth several times to create a new zipper stop. Do this on the LEFT FRONT and RIGHT FRONT. Test the new zipper stops by closing the zipper and making sure the zipper pull does not go past the stitching.
Trim off the excess zipper tape.
You have successfully created a zipper fly! Do a little celebration dance for getting through all these steps.
OPTIONAL: Now that your fly is finished, press the seat seam allowances to one side. Topstitch the seam allowances in place to create a fake flat felled seam. To make this look even more convincing, you could edge stitch along the seat seam as well.
Jedediah Sew-Along | Belt loops and waistband
This part of the sew-along is the last lengthy and involved segment to completing the Jedediah pants. For this part please have ready:
- Belt loops
- Waistband + waistband interfacing
- Bias binding (optional)
- Pants
- Button
- Seam ripper or buttonhole making tool
Iron the three belt loop pieces as follows: Fold each long edge in 3/8" (1 cm) towards the center of the strip of fabric. Press. Fold the strip in half to enclose raw edges and press again (just as you would to make binding). Topstitch along either edge to form a flat belt loop piece.
Cut each strip in half to create six belt loop pieces (you will only be needing five, so look through the pieces and choose the five with the nicest topstitching).
Line each belt loop up with the top edge of the pants with the right sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops – choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Place the belt loops as illustrated (two in the front, 3 in the back) in the instructions booklet or match the position of the loops on a favorite pair of trousers. Baste the top edge in place.
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband piece.
Press the waistband in half with the wrong sides together, then open flat.
NOTE: If you are not using binding to finish the waistband edge in later steps you can either:
- Press under one long edge to the wrong side at 3/8" (1 cm).
- Finish one long edge with a serge or zig-zag stitch
Open up the waistband and pin one edge of the waistband to the pants with the right sides together. The waistband should extend 5/8" (1.6 cm) past both ends of the pants. Stitch the waistband and pants together, easing in the excess pants material.
Grade the pants seam and the belt loops and press the seam upward into the waistband.
Apply binding to the other long waistband edge.
Apply binding to the other long waistband edge.
Sandwich the pants between the right sides of the folded waistband so that the waistband is closed with the right sides together and the pant material is tucked out of the way inside of this sandwich. This way, the corner of the waistband can be sewn without catching the pants.
Starting at the folded waistband edge, sew at 5/8" (1.6 cm), pivot at the waistband corner, and sew across the waistband edge that has been sewn to the pants for 1-2 inches (3-4 cm). Trim corners and grade excess seam allowance up to the point where you finished stitching.
Turn the waistband corner right side out and press so the corner is crisp. Where the stitching ends at each corner, unfold the bound edge of the inner waistband and press flat.
Pin both layers of the waistband in place with the inner waistband lying unfolded from the stitched corner onwards (as shown). From the right side of the pants, topstitch along the lower edge of the waistband.
Pin both layers of the waistband in place with the inner waistband lying unfolded from the stitched corner onwards (as shown). From the right side of the pants, topstitch along the lower edge of the waistband.
With belt loops still pointed down, stitch across the loop 3/8" (1 cm) below where it has been sewn into the waistband.
Flip the belt loop up and loosely curl the top edge under 1/4" (0.6 cm).
Flip the belt loop up and loosely curl the top edge under 1/4" (0.6 cm).
Stitch across the top of the belt loop several times to secure it to the waistband.
Add a buttonhole to the center of the left front waistband. Start the buttonhole 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the edge of the waistband.
Hand-sew a button to the right front waistband above the zipper teeth.
Jedediah Sew-Along | Hem and cuffs
The final steps to completing the Jedediah pants! You don't need any tools for this section, just the pant legs.
Try the garment on the soon-to-be wearer to check length prior to hemming. Press the hem up 3/4" (2 cm) and again 3/4" (2 cm) to enclose the raw edge.
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
If you are sewing the Pants Variation you are DONE! Give your garment a final press and your pants are ready to wear!
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
If you are sewing the Pants Variation you are DONE! Give your garment a final press and your pants are ready to wear!
Roll up the cuff 3/4" (2 cm) (at the edge of hem) and again 1 1/2" (4 cm). Press. Stitch in the ditch along the inseam and out-seams to keep the rolled cuff in place.
Your shorts are DONE! Give them a final press and they are ready to wear!
Your shorts are DONE! Give them a final press and they are ready to wear!
Day 3: Jedediah Sew-Along | Guest Post - How to sew back pockets with no interior raw edges
Today we have another guest post treat - this time from Katie, the author of the blog, The Creative Counselor. She is the test sewer who made this version of the Jedediah Pants. She used a gorgeous recycled hemp and organic cotton blend and widened the legs to create a totally different style of pants than our slim fit originals - I love how well these pants display the versatility of a well fitting pants pattern - all you have to do is adjust the width or length of the legs to create endless varieties and styles!
Day 1: Jedediah Sew-Along | Guest Post - How to Save Fabric when cutting out your Jedediah Pants
Meg, of Made By Meg was one of the test sewers for our Jedediah Pants pattern. She was the sewer who produced this spectacular pair of denim pants (with musical themed pocket linings!):
