Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 7 - Belt Loops and Waistband

We are now in the homestretch of the Jutland Pants sew-along! We will now finish the top details of the pants - the waistband and belt loops.

  

  

  

At the top of the front pocket openings, make a marking 5/8" (1.5 cm) down from the raw waistline edge. 

 

Following the manufacturer's instructions, install rivets to the top of the front pocket openings just below the 5/8" (1.5 cm) marking.

    

Installing the rivets before attaching the waistband and belt loops is easier.

  

  

  

Iron the three belt loop pieces as follows: Fold each long edge in 3/8" (1 cm) towards the center of the strip of fabric. Press. Fold the strip in half to enclose the raw edges and press again (just as you would to make binding). Topstitch along either edge to form a flat belt loop piece.

  
Alternatively, you could make a tube sewing with a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance and right sides together, flip and then press before topstitching. This method would be best for lighter fabrics, as flipping the tube right side out can be frustrating when using heavier twills or denim!

  

Cut each belt loop piece in half so you now have six pieces. (for Variation 1, you will only need five belt loops, so choose the five pieces with the nicest topstitching).  

  

  

Line each belt loop up with the top edge of the pants with the right
sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops –
choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Baste the belt loops to the waistline at 1/2" (1.3 cm)

  

Match two belt loops along the front waistline edge, about 1/4" (6 mm), towards the center front from the pocket openings. 

  

  

Match two belt loops to the side seams of the pants. If that is too bulky due to the flat-felled seam, place the belt loops just to the side of the flat-felled side seam on the back waistline edge.

  

Match one belt loop to the center back seam.

  

  

  

  

Following the manufacturer's instructions, apply interfacing to one waistband piece if you haven't already.

  

With the right sides, match the waistband pieces together along the long folded edge. Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).

  

Press the seam allowances open. Trim and grade the seam allowances.

  

Finish the un-interfaced side of the waistband using a serge stitch or binding.

  

  

Match the interfaced waistband side to the waistline of the pants with the right sides together. Align the notch of the waistband with the center back seam of the pants. The narrow waistband edges should extend past the center front edges 5/8" (1.5 cm). 

  

  

  

Press the entire waistband and seam allowances up and away from the pants.

  

  

  

At the center front, fold the waistband pieces to be right sides together along the waistband seam.

  

Stitch the narrow edges of the waistband together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).

  

Trim the seam allowances and clip the center front corner.

  

  

  

Turn the waistband right side out. Use a point-turner for the corners of the waistband. Neatly press the top and center front edges of the waistband. 

  

Press the waistband seam allowance under from the center front to several inches towards the front pocket. Leave the rest of the seam allowance as is.

  

  

With the right side of the pants facing up, edgestitch all around the waistband. Check and make sure to catch the folded edges of the waistband underneath as you are sewing.

  

  

  

Press the exposed edge of each belt loop under at 1/4" (6 mm).

  

Fold the belt loops up towards the waistband. Match each belt loop's folded edges with the waistband's top edge. Bar tack the belt loops to the waistband.

  

Press the lower portion of each belt loop to lay flat against the pants.

Bar tack along the lower folded edge of each belt loop, securing them to the pants.