Jutland Sew-Along: Announcement

Jutland Sew Along

If you would like some help sewing your Jutland Pants, not to worry - help is on its way!  Join us on the blog starting December 1st for a week of back to back video and photo posts.  This sew-along will be a little different from our normal format.  Instead of posting every few days at what we hope is the pace that you might be sewing, we will be posting a new post once a day for one week.  This way you can refer back to them at whatever pace you desire.  Each post will include a 'Video Diary' of my sewing process along with the most important stills from the video posted as photos for you to examine.

Since we already created a thorough step-by-step photographed sew-along that teaches you how to sew the Jedediah Pants, this new sew-along will instead assume a base level of knowledge (never fear, if you don't have that pants sewing knowledge, simply refer to the Jedediah Pants sew-along as the main construction process for both pants is very similar).  The Jutland Pants sew-along will delve beyond the basic instructions and will focus on making the pattern your own.  We'll will discuss fitting your pants, we will take a look at how to add a gusset to this pattern (perfect for rock-climbing and other agility based activities), we will add removable knee pads to our pants, we'll create custom pockets suited to our needs, and we will wax our pants to create a water resistant pair of canvas trousers.

Are there any other elements you would like to see included in this sew-along?  Send in your requests and we will get working on them!

November 26, 2014

Jutland Pants Sew-Along: Schedule

Welcome to the first post of our Jutland Pants Sew-Along!

As I mentioned in our announcement blog post, this sew-along will be a little different than a classic sew-along.  Instead of covering each step of the Jutland Pants construction process, we will be offering a week of blog posts that show you how to customize this pattern to truly make these pants personalized!

Schedule

 Also, I’d mentioned in the announcement post that we would be offering a number of videos…um…that’s not going to happen :P.  Matt and I valiantly struggled through a large number of flawed takes and many hours of work before becoming completely exasperated with the quality of instruction we were producing.  We’ve had a few customers request video tutorials from us so, to those who have, I’m sorry that we aren’t able to provide these for you!  In short, we have discovered that my shy personality paired with Matt’s obsession with perfection leads to VERY long filming days and videos complete with a squeaky, stuttering me and inferior lighting, coloring and angles.  Considering how much time we invest into a photographed sew-along (read LOTS), we just aren’t able to add more time to this by attempting to create videos.  For now at least!

Tuesday’s post will feature a few videos (minus sound) that we were able to produce but the rest of the posts will be the usual detailed photographs, write ups and a number of diagrams.  I hope they will be really helpful to you while you work on your pants!

November 30, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Discussing Materials

Today I'll show you the fabric and notions I've chosen for the sew-along pants I'm sewing and we'll take some time to discuss materials you could choose for your own pair.

I'm creating two pairs of pants for this sew-along:

VARIATION ONE

WrayParsons-2

This pair will feature the design details from Variation 1 of the Jutland Pants pattern.  I'm sewing them in a size 30 for Matt.

Materials I'm using:

  • Self Fabric: Olive 7.35 oz cotton canvas
  • Waistband Facing: Plaid Flannel
  • Pocketing: Densely woven cotton sheeting
  • Interfacing: Medium weight woven fusible interfacing
  • Zipper: 6" Talon metal zipper
  • Rivets: Brass.  I'll be using four of these to reinforce the front pockets
  • Otter Wax: Two bars.  These will be used for waxing the finished pair of pants!

Changes I'll be making to this variation:

  • Create narrower legs (as per Matt's preference...he's a skinny guy!)
  • Add buttons to the welt pockets
  • Use Otter Wax to create a water resistant finish

VARIATION TWO

WrayParsons-1

This pair will include the details from Variation 2.  I'm sewing them in a size 34 for my Uncle who covet's my dad's orange pair (from our Jutland Pants photo shoot).

Materials I'm using:

  • Self Fabric: Navy blue cotton twill - VERY heavy weight (avoid this fabric if your machine doesn't like thick layers!)
  • Waistband Facing: Plaid Flannel
  • Lining: Plaid Flannel
  • Pocketing: Densely woven cotton sheeting
  • Interfacing: Medium weight woven fusible interfacing
  • Zipper: 6" Talon metal zipper
  • Rivets: Brass.  I'll be using ten of these - two on each front pocket and three on each patch pocket

Changes I'll be making to this variation:

  • Add a gusset to the main pants and lining crotch
  • Add screw-driver pocket instead of the left cargo pocket
  • Create knee pad pockets that allow for removable knee pad inserts
  • Add additional strengthening top stitching and bar tacks

So now you've seen what materials I've chosen, let's have a look at why I made these choices and how you can make your own choices:

Fabric

BagKitFabric-12

These pants can be sewn from all sorts of bottom weight fabrics.  You can try using anything from denim to waterproof Rip-stop!

A note about the cotton canvas we carry in our store: I chose our Olive cotton canvas to put in our store because it is strong enough to withstand a lot of wear but it is thin and light enough to cooperate with light weight domestic sewing machines. It is a great weight to use if your machine is afraid of heavy fabrics.  Because the pattern includes details such as flat fell seams, it is a good idea to choose a fabric that is thin enough for your machine to handle several layers and also to choose something that does not fray substantially as this can make ironing the tiny folds of a flat fell seam quite fiddly!

A note about thick materials: As for the thick twill material I chose for my Uncle's pair of pants - don't try this at home (if you're machine is lightweight).  I sew this weight of material on my industrial sewing machine.  If you would like to sew pants with a heavyweight material such as this one, I'd suggest skipping all flat fell seams and keep in mind that the details such as the knee and hem reinforcements can result in a lot of layers so it might be a good idea to skip them.

A note about stretch fabrics:  Stretch denims and other stretch materials can result in a great pair of Jutland Pants.  Just keep in mind that the stretch inherent in the fabric will change the fit of the pants.  You can either size down or make sure that key fit areas can't stretch.  For instance, you could use a non-stretch woven material as the waistband facing or as interfacing in the waistband to prevent this area from stretching bigger throughout the day while the pants are worn.

Pocketing

pockets the monthly stitch

(I love the personalized Star Wars pockets that Lindsay used on The Monthly Stitch!)

While actual pocketing will create light weight but strong pocket linings, it can often be difficult to find at your local fabric store.  Pocketing (whether labelled as such or not) just needs to be densely woven, thin and strong.  Any quilting cotton will work nicely (and it's so much fun to pick personalized prints!) - just keep in mind that the more densely woven your material is, the stronger your pockets will be.  I like to use high quality, high thread count sheeting (fabric intended for sheets) since I happen to have a lot of pocket size scraps of it from an old job I had sewing for an interior designer!  Waste not, want not :).

Hardware

JeansKit-15

Choose a zipper with all metal components.  Look for quality brands such as Talon (an old American zipper company) or YKK (a Japanese zipper company).  Don't skimp or compromise when choosing a zipper!  This is a notion that needs to deal with a lot of stress and use.

Rivets come in all sorts of shapes and sizes.  Don't worry if the post seems too long to suit the thickness of your fabric.  You can trim the post to suit your material thickness perfectly to create a strong and effective fit.  Check out the tutorial Matt made to show you how to do this!

JeansKit-17

Choose a button that suits your style and the wearer's preference.  For a casual and rugged look, use a jeans button that is applied just like a rivet.  For a dressier look, use a thick hidden hook and bar closure.  You can read a detailed post on this closure style at The Cutting Class.  Or personalize your pants by using a wooden, bone or plastic sew-on button (check out the button sewing tutorial that I made to make sure that your button won't fall off of your pants!).

Tomorrow I'll be going into all sorts of detail about my approach to preventing and fixing fit issues.  Please email or comment with any questions you might have!

December 03, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: How to Measure a Man

In preparation for this afternoon's Jutland Sew-Along post about fitting, I've created a handy chart to show you how to take all relevant measurements before choosing your size for any of our patterns.  I've included it in this post rather than within the sew-along post because it was starting to become overwhelmingly long...and I really don't want to scare you away from fitting your pants because it isn't very difficult at all!

 

How to Measure a Man

 

Fitting Information

If you would like to refer to this chart when you need to measure a man in the future you will find it in our Tutorials section!

December 03, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Analyzing Fit

Today, for the Jutland Sew-Along, we are talking about fit.  While fitting men is usually far easier than fitting women, as their body structure generally includes less curves, there are still a number of fit issues you might come across in your pants sewing process.

I want to point out a number of things before we get into the nitty-gritty of fitting.  First off, it might not be necessary to immerse yourself in the world of fitting if you find it too intimidating.  Sewing should be fun!   By taking accurate body measurements (as I detailed in this morning's blog post) and choosing your size accordingly, you will likely end up with pants that fit as well as store bought pants.  If you want to enjoy sewing, simply make the process as involved as you feel like for each project :D.  Try one or two new fitting techniques with each garment and don't attempt them all at once.  This will make the pursuit of a perfect fit far more achievable!

I'm not an expert:

Next up, I want to point out that I don't consider myself a menswear fitting expert.  This is due to couple factors - the first being the size and shape of all the men I have ever sewn for.  They almost all happen to be thin and lanky!  Thus, my practical knowledge of fitting men is limited to the adjustments necessary for this body type.  Also, I'm still pretty young!  I like to think of fitting knowledge as something that accumulates a bit like a snowball.  Each time I read something or sew something or take a course, one more element of fitting knowledge sticks on to my growing snowball of experience.  This will keep growing all my life and I am doing all in my power to increase it's size as rapidly as possible...but the reality is, I've only had a few years experience of fitting the garments I sew.

Okay, with those caveats aside, lets move on to discuss fitting.  I have read and heard many different approaches to fitting.  Some people tissue fit a pattern by placing the actual tissue pattern pieces against the wearer, some people sew a first mock up of the garment without any alterations before beginning to fit, other people baste together the actual garment pieces and perform fit adjustments straight on the actual garment fabric.

Here is my approach to fitting:

  1. I take the relevant body measurements and compare them to those included in the pattern.
  2. I then measure one of the man's existing pairs of pants that as closely as possible match the style of the pattern I am sewing.  I take measurements such as the rise, waist width, hip width, thigh width and inseam length.  I examine the fit of these existing pants on the man to see if there are issues with the store-bought fit.
  3. I then compare all the measurements I took (both body and garment measurements) to those provided in the pattern and choose a size mainly based on the waist and hip/seat measurements.  I then know that I will need to adjust the fit of any areas where the measurements I have and the measurements the pattern provides differ greatly.
  4. Next, I make any major adjustments to the tissue pattern (see the videos at the bottom of this post as they demonstrate some of the main adjustments I would make).
  5. I sew a pair of the pants using a cheap fabric that is the approximate weight and fabric content of the intended final pair of pants.  This first pair, using cheap fabric, serves as a wearable mock-up which will familiarize me with the sewing process for this garment and which I can examine on the man to see if any other changes to the fit will be necessary for the final pair.
  6. Lastly, I sew up the final pair and make sure to note all changes I made to the original pattern so that future pairs can be sewn quickly and without worry of fit issues!

Some Fitting Techniques for Men's Pants:

I've created a chart for you to refer to once you've created your first muslin/wearable mock-up of the Jutland Pants (or any other men's pants pattern).  Take a look at the numbered areas in the diagram below and treat them like a checklist.  Are there any strange drag lines or folds of fabric visible?

Fitting Diagram

 

I've made some rough illustrations showing what the fitting issues might look like.  Beside each illustration is a suggestion for fixing this problem.  Almost every fitting book/video/expert has a different approach to fixing certain fitting problems.  I've selected the techniques I prefer to use (or, if I haven't used them myself, I've selected the method that seems simplest and the most likely to fix the fit issue if you don't have advanced knowledge in pattern manipulation).

Keep in mind that this is a work in progress and some tutorials are not yet available!  Please let me know if I am missing any fit issues that you would like included here:

Fitting Information-01Fitting Information-02

Resources: Large Abdomen Adjustment videoFitting Information-03

Resources: Hip Shape Adjustment Video, Grading Between Sizes tutorialFitting Information-04Fitting Information-05

Resources: Making Shorts video and the How to Lengthen or Shorten a Pattern tutorialFitting Information-06Fitting Information-07

Resources: A tutorial is currently in the works!  In the mean time, have a look Colette's excellent take on this adjustment.  The method I use is a little simpler but doesn't spread the changes to as many areas in the crotch curve.Fitting Information-08

Resources: Grading Between Sizes tutorialFitting Information-09

Resources: A tutorial is currently in the works!  In the mean time, have a look Colette's excellent take on this adjustment.  The method I use is a little simpler but doesn't spread the changes to as many areas in the crotch curve.

Fitting Information-10

Resources:  Tutorial in the works!  In the meantime, it really is quite simple! Just draw a different crotch curve that is either steeper or shallower.  Make small adjustments - a little goes a long ways.   Use a curved ruler or eyeball it :P.Fitting Information-11

I hope you find this chart helpful!  I'll be updating the blog with the upcoming tutorials as I have a chance to make them.

In the meantime, check out these (silent!) videos.

  • We made a video about adjusting the width of pant legs that isn't referred to in any of these fitting diagrams, so be sure to check that out if the man you are sewing for would prefer narrow Jutland Pants or more straight-legged Jedediah Pants!
  • Also, you might like to watch our video on creating shorts from a pants pattern.  I make a lot of hand gestures which you might not understand (since we removed the sound) - but most of them refer to the fact that you will likely need to move the cargo pockets up since the new hemline will potentially be higher than the bottom of the cargo pocket!

I would really love to hear about the fitting techniques and resources you find to be most useful.  Do you have a different approach to a fit problem than the ones I've chosen and explained?

December 03, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Adding a Gusset and Removable Knee Pads

Today we’re going to talk about creating removable knee pads and we will be adding a gusset to the Jutland Pants!  I’m adding both of these features to the heavy work pants I’m making for my Uncle.  My inspiration is the brand of pants my Uncle likes to wear (Kühl) which always include a gusset.

Creating Removable Knee Pads

Let’s start with the easiest job today – I’ll show you how I’ve altered the knee patches to create pockets for knee pads!  You can use these to insert store-bought knee pads or you can simply add some padding of your choice.  I bought some foam alternative from my local fabric store which is really just a lofty synthetic batting.  I cut two rectangles the size of the knee patch minus seam allowances.

IMGP2488-2
To make the knee patches into pockets I bound the top edge and then pressed it under 5/8″.  If your fabric isn’t overly bulky you could fold the raw edge under instead of binding it.  I avoided this because I didn’t want to add that much bulk to my side and inseams.  I finished this edge by top stitching and edge stitching along the fold.

IMGP2506-2IMGP2504-2

Next, I added the velcro to the top edge of the knee patch and stitched it in place using a rectangular stitch pattern as pictured above.

IMGP2507-2

I folded under the bottom edge of the knee patch and pressed as directed in the instructions.  I Placed the knee patch on the pant leg so that the finished edges matched the provided notches.  I marked where matching velcro needed to be added to the pant leg and removed the knee patch.  I stitched the velcro on to the pant leg.

IMGP2521-2

To finish my knee pad pocket, I pinned the knee patch back in place and basted within the seam allowances along the side seam and inseam.  I top stitched and edge stitched along the bottom horizontal edge.

Remember to leave the top edge free of stitching!  You now have a pocket to which knee pads may be added and removed while the pants are worn or washed.

That was a pretty easy way to warm up…so now lets move on to a little pattern drafting!  Let’s create a gusset:

What is a gusset?

Let’s talk a little about what a gusset is and what purpose it serves.  A gusset is a diamond or triangular piece of fabric that is inserted into a garment.  This piece of material can be added for several entirely different reasons:

Gusset underarm

(Photo of underarm gusset from blog Reves Mecanique)

  • To add room and flexibility:  A gusset can be added to the underarm of a tight woven dress as in the tutorial on Gertie’s Blog For Better Sewing or to the crotch of jeans such as the famous “Chuck Norris Jeans” to add width without loosing structure and a close fit.

Chuck Norris

(Photo of advert from Chris’s Invincible Super-Blog)

  • To prevent seam allowances from creating bulk: A gusset can be used to prevent many seams from meeting in one area.  Lulu Lemon’s ABC (anti ball crushing) Pants, designed to be all-purpose trousers for active men, use a gusset to prevent the Centre Back, Centre Front, and both inseams from meeting at one point.  When a person is crouched or sitting smooth fabric will press against them rather than a big mash of seams.  You can see a review of the pants complete with a look at the shape of the gusset in this YouTube video.

gusset

  • To add strength: A gusset is a good way to add strength at high stress points.  The diamond or triangular shape disperses the stress to it’s various points rather than allowing the stress to concentrate at the one area where all the seams join.  The All American Clothing Company provides two photos and a description explaining how the stress is dispersed when sitting.
  • To save fabric: The use of gussets on plus size pants is quite common as a fabric saving measure during manufacturing.  Adding a gusset, as you will see in the tutorial below, causes the crotch curve on the pants Front and Back pieces to be considerably reduced.  This makes them far easier to place side by side on fabric as they are much more rectangular in shape and narrower than classic pants pattern pieces.

How to Draft a Gusset

For my Uncle’s pants, I decided to create a gusset that does not add a lot of extra room in the crotch since this was not necessary for the pants to fit him well.  I mostly just want to disperse stress and add a little bit of flexibility.  Since this is the case, it was necessary for me to remove fabric from the pants Front and Back before adding it by sewing in a gusset.

Gusset Tutorial-01

Since the Jutland Pants include seam allowance, it is a good idea to mark all the seam lines on the pattern before beginning any pattern alterations.  When altering the pattern, only work on the actual pattern and don’t work within the seam allowances.

  1. Once all seam allowances are marked, draw in the desired shape and size of your gusset.  My shape is indicated by the orange shading.  I created a gusset that was 4″ along the inseam and then is larger in the back of the pants than the front.  I made mine small enough (I hope!) that it won’t be visible when the pants are worn because the entire gusset will be hidden in the crotch.
  2. Now that the actual gusset area is marked, you need to add new seam allowances to the pants before cutting the gusset area off of the pattern pieces.  You can see the new seam allowances indicated with black lines.  Remember, they are being added to the pants pattern so they will cut into the gusset shape that you just drew.  I connected this new seam allowance with the existing inseam seam allowance and the crotch curve seam allowance.
    Gusset Tutorial-02
  3. Trace the two gusset pattern pieces onto new paper (using tracing paper or by holding the pattern piece up to a window and tracing with regular paper on top of it).  Remember that the gusset shape is the orange shaded area.
  4. Once your gusset pattern pieces are recorded (NOT before!) you are ready to cut into the Jutland Pants Front and Back.  Cut along the new seam allowances that you created.  Your Pants Front and Back pieces are now complete.Gusset Tutorial-03
  5. Above is a diagram explaining how the gusset elements that you traced onto new paper merge to become the actual pattern piece.  You will see that the shapes don’t fit together perfectly to create a diamond (the skinny slivers have a gap in the centre as you can see in diagram one).  This is okay – by adjusting the shape slightly you will be adding a little more room and thus flexibility into your pants.  You can either trace around the rough diamond shape to create a pointed diamond or you can round the corners as I have for what I hope will be a more pleasing gusset shape reminiscent of the Lulu Lemon ABC gusset.  If you would like to cut your gusset on the fold, you can do so (as in diagram 3) because it is symmetrical!  Oh…and don’t forget to add seam allowances to your gusset pattern piece!

I will be covering how to add the gusset into the Jutland Pants on Friday when I show you how to sew the Fly and Waistband (that’ll be a big post!).  This is because it is easiest to change the order of construction when adding a gusset.  In the Jutland instructions the fly is constructed near the end of the pants sewing process (so you can work up the confidence for that step!) but, for my Uncle’s pair of pants with a gusset, I will construct the fly and crotch seam first, add in the gusset and then sew the side and inseams.

In the meantime, come back tomorrow for a free pocket embroidery template and a screwdriver pocket template!

December 03, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Sewing the Fly and the Gusset

Jutland Sew-Along: Sewing the Fly and Gusset

Leave a comment

Schedule

I’m back!  Sorry for the delay – Matt and I decided to slow the schedule down and got ourselves wrapped up in Christmas decorating, Christmas gift making and a rum and egg nog or two over the last few days.  I hope you don’t mind!  I’m stretching the remaining details of the sew along a few more days so that the posts aren’t so overwhelmingly long.

Today I have the photographed fly tutorial for you!  I’ve sewn the fly using an alternative order of construction.  In the instruction booklet for the Jutland Pants (and the Jedediah Pants) the pants are sewn using my preferred method: The side seams and inseams are sewn first before the fly is tackled.  I like this method because it allows me to warm up to sewing the fly!

Some people prefer to sew the fly at the very start of the pants sewing process so that they can work with flatter pieces and less bulk.  This is totally doable with any pair of fly front pants regardless of what the instructions suggest.  Keep in mind though, that if you are adding cargo pockets to the Jutland Pants, you must still make sure to sew the side seams before sewing the inseams so that you are able to top stitch the cargo pockets to the flat, spread open legs over the completed side seam.

At the end of this post, I’ve photographed the gusset sewing process.  I have not tried adding a gusset using the order of construction that I suggest in our instruction booklet.  I think you would still be able to add one but it seems to me that sewing the pant front and pant back as separate panels first and then adding the gusset when attaching the panels together along the inseam is the simplest approach.

How to Sew A Fly

Let’s get started!

IMGP2589

Begin by sewing the crotch seam.  With the pants front right sides together, sew from the inseam up to the zipper placement notch on the fly extension.

IMGP2551

Sew the crotch seam on the pants back as well.  Sew these using a flat fell seam if desired.  You can also sew this seam with right sides together and then push the seam to one side and top stitch and edge stitch in place (this is a faux flat fell seam).


IMGP2590

This pair of pants is going to be lined so, since we’re sewing the fly first, the process of adding a lining also includes a different order.  Sew the crotch seam in the lining just as you did for the exterior of the pants.  Bind, serge or otherwise finish the lining and self fly extension edges.

IMGP2593

With the exterior and lining wrong sides together, attach the lining to the pants only along the fly extensions – baste it in place within the seam allowance down to the curve of the fly extension.

IMGP2594

There are two notches at the top of either fly extension.  Press along the entire fly extension using these notches as a guide.  The right front of the pants (if you were wearing the pants…so the left side in these photos) is the underside of the fly and needs to extend 1/4″ past the crotch seam.  Use the closest notch to center front as a guide.  The left front of the pants is the upper part of the fly. Press the left front fly extension using the second notch as a guide (furthest from center front) so the folded edge is even with the crotch seam.

IMGP2600

Now it’s time to prepare the zipper shield!  Fold the zipper shield in half and bind the raw edge.  Stitch the left side of the zipper to the zipper shield along the middle of the zipper tape.

Note:  In the Jutland instructions I’ve suggested to bind or serge the raw edge of the zipper shield to reduce bulk if you are creating work pants using thick fabrics.  If you are using thinner fabric, you could fold the shield with wrong sides together and flip so right sides are out.  If you do this, you could stitch the zipper to either edge of the shield.

IMGP2601

Pin the zipper to the right side of the pant fly (if you were wearing the pants…so the left side in the photo above!).  Before stitching, make sure that the lining fabric is fully folded along the fly extension…it tends to unfold itself even after ironing!

IMGP2605

Stitch the zipper in place using a zipper foot.  The photo above is how your pants will appear from the underside at this point.

IMGP2611

Now it’s time to attach the zipper to the other side of the pants front.  Fold the zipper shield out of the way.

IMGP2618

Pinch the loose fly extension and the zipper.  Move the rest of the pants out of the way (ignore the stitching in this photo!  I decided to take it after already stitching the zipper in place :P).

IMGP2617

From the wrong side of the zipper, stitch along the zipper tape.  Catch only the zipper extension (again place the lining in the correct position.  Make sure it doesn’t slip out of place!).


IMGP2609

The last step when sewing the fly is to top stitch!  Pin the fly closed at center front at the top of the fly.  Draw a chalk line to create your desired fly shape.  End the top stitching guideline just below the metal zipper stop.  Before top stitching, move the zipper shield out of the way (fold it to the left).  Now follow your chalk markings and top stitch.  Back stitch thoroughly at center front.


IMGP2620

Move the zipper shield back in place.

IMGP2619

Create a bar tack or simply stitch forward and backwards often below the zipper stop to reinforce the base of fly – there is a lot of strain in this area.

How to Sew A Gusset

IMGP2624

Now that the fly is finished, lets add the gusset!  Pin the gusset to the pants back with right sides together.  Stitch.

IMGP2625

Create triangular notches in the gusset seam allowance and clip into the pants seam allowance to allow the curve to sit smoothly.  Grade the seam allowances.

IMGP2630

Press the seam allowance towards the gusset.  Top the seam allowance in place to strengthen the seam.

 

IMGP2633With right sides together, pin the entire inseam in place (make sure that, across the gusset, the crotch seam along the front and back line up!  You’ll see that I didn’t do a perfect job of this in a little bit…woops!).  Note that, if you are sewing the cargo pockets, you will want to sew the side seams before sewing the inseam.

IMGP2639Once the inseam has been sewn, clip into the gusset seam allowances so that the curve sits flat.

 

IMGP2643

Create a faux flat fell seam by pressing the inseams towards the back.  Top stitch and edge stitch along the entire seam.

Sew the gusset in the lining in the same manner.  Sew the side seams and inseams separately from the exterior pant shell.

Ta daa!  A completed fly and gusset!

Over the next few days we will be working on the waistband, adding buttons to the welts on the second pair of Jutlands that I’ve been sewing for Matt.  Then I will be adding Otter Wax to Matt’s Jutland pants, and adding rivets and extra reinforcement stitches to my Uncle’s Jutland Pants.

December 07, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Creating the Waistband

During today's update for the Jutland Sew-Along I'll be showing you how to sew the waistband onto the pants.  This is how your pants will appear when you are ready to begin assembling the waistband:
IMGP2706

To create the waistband, place the waistband and waistband facing with right sides together.  Pin along one edge.IMGP2707

Stitch along the entire length and press the seam allowance towards the waistband facing.  Grade the seam allowances so that one is shorter than the other (I grade the thicker fabric shorter).  Under stitch along the entire seam.IMGP2710

This is what your waistband will look like from the wrong side:

IMGP2711

Finish the raw edge of the facing with bias binding, seam tape or by using a serger or zig zag stitch.IMGP2712

Now it's time to attach the waistband to the pants!  Place the waistband and pants with right sides together.IMGP2713

Grade the seam allowance (I like to grade the pants seam allowance shorter than the waistband) and press the seam allowance towards the waistband.
IMGP2720

Here is what the graded seam allowance looks like at this point:IMGP2721IMGP2724

Now it's time to finish the waistband corners.  Position the waistband and waistband facing with right sides together.  The seam allowances should sit next to the waistband facing.IMGP2725

This is what your waistband will look like from the waistband side:IMGP2728

Stitch along the waistband edge using a 5/8" seam allowance.
IMGP2731IMGP2732IMGP2736

Trim the seam allowance to 3/8".  Don't clip the corners though!  Keeping a 3/8" seam allowance along this seam will add strength and structure on this high stress area.IMGP2739

Pinch the seam allowance and waistband facing:IMGP2741IMGP2748

Flip the facing so that the the wrong sides are together.  Keep the seam allowance pinched as you do this so that a fold is formed at the top edge of the waistband:IMGP2749

Here is how the fold will look at this point:IMGP2742

And a nice square waistband corner will result!

IMGP2744

Now it's time to finish the waistband facing.IMGP2745

Fold under the waistband facing for several inches on either waistband end:IMGP2747

Pin the rest of the waistband facing in place.IMGP2751

To finish the waistband facing, topstitch 1/8" from the waistband seam from the right side.IMGP2753

And you're done!  The only thing left to do is top-stitch your belt loops in place and add a button and buttonhole!IMGP2757

December 14, 2014

Jutland Sew-Along: Adding Strengthening Details and Otter Wax

IMGP2804

I’ve finished my two pairs of Jutland Pants for the Jutland Sew-Along!  The finishing touches were lots of fun – I really enjoyed transforming Matt’s regular pair of canvas Jutlands into ‘waxed designer trousers’ with Otter Wax :P.  He’s been waiting in eager anticipation for these pants and I think they’ll be getting a lot of wear!

Today I’ll share some of my thoughts on rivets and strengthening details with you and I will show you a detailed step by step of my Otter Wax application process.

Strengthening Details

Let’s start with a few stitching techniques that you might not find suggested in most trouser pattern instruction booklets (but that can be easily added to any pair of trousers even after they are finished!):

  1. The side seam edge stitching:  Press both seam allowance towards the back and edge stitch through all layers.  This will prevent pants from ripping or stretching out after heavy front pocket use.IMGP2809
  2. The fly ‘bartack':  On this pair I’ve just back stitched excessively at the end of my faux flat fell seam.  You could also do a narrow zig zag stitch (i.e. a buttonhole stitch) for a very professional detail.IMGP2807
  3. The faux flat fell seat seam:  This is much easier than stitching a real flat fell seam along the crotch of the pants and it allows you to position or even clip the seam allowances at the base of the fly so that both the seam allowances and the fly sit flat.IMGP2813

Otter Wax Application

IMGP2770

(Before Waxing)

This is how Matt’s Jutland Pants looked before I added Otter Wax or a button.IMGP2775

I decided to apply Otter Wax to Matt’s Jutlands before attaching the jeans buttons and rivets because I figured the metal hardware would be tricky to wax around and I didn’t want to fill the rivets with pools of wax by accident!  All the same, if you wanted to wax a finished pair of jeans or trousers, you could trim a small chunk of wax off of the bar and use it to get into tight areas.  You could also melt any excess wax off of the rivets and button by using a hair dryer.  For this pair of pants I ended up using 1 1/2 bars to create one medium-heavy coat of wax.

Otter Wax recommends rubbing the wax into the fabric and then simply leaving the garment to cure for 48 hours.  I like to speed up the process considerably and also add a couple layers of wax by pairing the heat caused by friction with the heat of a hair dryer.  Here is the technique that I’ve grown accustomed to:

IMGP2776

Prep an area of fabric by heating it with a hair dryer.  I work on one section at a time when waxing a large project – you can even leave the project partially finished for days on end and come back to it when you have a few spare minutes.  Even though the finished area will have cured, you can simply wax the remaining area and you won’t be able to notice where you left off once the whole garment has cured.

IMGP2778

Hold the area taught with one hand and rub the wax on with the other hand.

IMGP2786
Rub until enough wax has transferred onto the material to fill the weave of the fabric (this is just a suggestion – you can make your coat of wax as thin or as thick as you would like to create a variety of appearances and levels of water resistance!).

IMGP2787

Heat the waxed area with a hair dryer and rub the partially melted wax into the fabric.  I really like how deeply the wax sinks into the fabric when it is melted like this.  The fabric becomes stiffer and the final product feels very dry (and in no way sticky).  You’ll notice that skipping the hair dryer and simply leaving the garment to cure by laying it flat to ‘air dry’ will create a different effect – the wax sits closer to the surface of the fabric and fills any divets caused by the weave of the fibers to create a fabric with less/different texture.

IMGP2789

Continue this process until the entire garment is waxed!  Here are the pants at the half-way point – you can see the very different texture created by the wax:

IMGP2793

Here are the finished pants:

IMGP2794At this point, you could leave it to cure even further than it has or you could proceed to add a second coat of wax.  Sometimes I like to wait a few days to make sure the project is fully and completely cured before adding a thin ‘touch-up’ coat.  This way I can make sure the project is fully water resistant without getting carried away with my second coat and wasting a bunch of wax.

Now that Matt’s Jutland Pants are waxed, they need to be cared for differently than a regular pair of pants.  They can’t be put in the wash of course, because the warm water and soap would remove the wax!  Instead, the waxed pants need to be brushed with a stiff bristle brush to remove dirt.  They can also be placed in the freezer overnight to kill any bacteria and remove any smell (put them in a ziploc bag so they don’t take on whatever smell your freezer might have…mmm frozen soup and lasagna jeans).  If this all sounds a bit weird and maybe a little unhygienic to you, not to worry!  You could carry out this method of cleaning for as long as you can stand and then periodically hand wash the pants by turning them inside out and washing in cold water with a delicate soap designed for hand washing.  Keep in mind that this will likely remove at least a little bit of your wax coating so it is a good idea to keep a bar of Otter Wax on hand to touch up your pants after you’ve hand washed them.  Either that, or you can embrace the gradual wearing of your waxed pants – you’ll notice that as the wax wears off it has greatly assisted in the creation of the coveted worn creases that denim enthusiasts strive for!

There is a considerable history/group of enthusiasts attached to the practice of waxing pants.  Here are a few intriguing links to immerse you in the crazy world of waxed jeans!

  • Heather Lou mentions last year’s waxed jeans craze in her Ginger Jeans Sew-Along post about personalizing your jeans.
  • A YouTube video demostrating how to wax jeans using Otter Wax – so relevant!
  • A post on waxing a variety of fabrics and a discussion of waxed garments from a practical rather than ‘fashion-statement’ standpoint – I linked to this great post when we first launched Otter Wax in our store.
  • A discussion about the various techniques suggested for cleaning waxed jeans on Fashionista.

 Rivet Application Tips:

Once I finished waxing Matt’s Jutlands, I added rivets to both pairs of pants.  Here are some tips to accompany Matt’srivet application tutorial.  Keep in mind that, unlike Matt, I’m not very skilled at wielding a hammer so these tips are catered towards people who might be hesitant about using woodworking tools in the sewing room:

IMGP2798

  • I find the only way I can successfully and strongly apply rivets is to use a very solid metal backing when hammering them in place.  Without the backing my rivets don’t grip very tightly and sometimes fall off after a while.  With the backing, they are SUPER strong.  We use this scrap piece of metal (you can find similar pieces at junk yards, scrap metal stores, or even at hardware stores which often have metal chunks sold as though they were a ‘cutting board’ to use during metal work projects).  Alternatively, you can use the fiddly little metal backers that are often sold with snap and rivet kits in the sewing store.  If you plan to make lots of pants featuring rivets, I highly recommend getting yourself a nice solid and heavy piece of metal – it works WAY better!IMGP2811
  • While Matt warns not to hammer too hard when applying your rivets and jeans buttons for fear of tearing through the metal (especially when attaching jeans buttons), I found I had to hammer harder than I was expecting.  That being said, start by hammering your first rivet gently, pause and see if you can pull the rivet apart, and if you can, increase the strength of your hammering gradually until there is no way you can separate the two rivet pieces.  It’s better to air on the side of caution than destroy your little rivet with excessive force!IMGP2818
  • Be creative with your rivet placement to create ‘designer’ pants.  I tend to skip change pockets altogether (and have not included a pattern piece for this tiny little pocket with the Jutland Pants pattern) because big manly fingers have such trouble accessing anything placed in that pocket so it just goes unused.  We didn’t want to limit you when using our Jeans & Pants Essential Notions Kit so we included six rivets – enough to secure a change pocket and the two front pockets just as you would find on classic denim jeans.  You can use these six rivets anywhere you like though!  I decided to apply six rivets to my uncle’s back pockets to make them SUPER strong :)

Thank you for joining in on our Jutland Sew-Along!  I hope you’ve had time to finish any pairs you intended as Christmas presents.  I’ll be posting my two pairs of finished pants next week and would love to feature yours on our blog if you have a chance to email or post photos!  Email us at info@threadtheory.ca or #JutlandPants.

December 30, 2014

Jutland Pants Sew-Along: The Finished Product

IMGP2820

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!  I’ll be doing a “2014 Reflections and Resolutions” post on Thursday but, in the meantime, I need to sneak in the final project post before the year finishes!  Here are the final photos of the two Jutland Pants that I made for the sew-along.

IMGP2821

First up, we have Matt’s Otter Waxed pants that I made using Variation One of the Jutland Pants pattern.  As you might recall, I adjusted this width of the legs slightly for this version to better suit Matt’s style and proportions.  I tapered them from the knee down to the hem.IMGP2822

I really love how the waxed canvas looks!  The wax gives the fabric such body and depth.  Matt has been wearing these pants non-stop and they have worn in to fit him like a second skin already (in a good way – they aren’t wearing out, they are just getting those desirable creases and that comfortable softness that people strive for with jeans).IMGP2823

These photos were taken on the first day that he wore his new pants so you can see that the wax is creasing in odd areas (see the photo below).  The more Matt wears his pants, the more the wax settles so those creases have disappeared.  The wax has made these pants very warm – it offers a level of protection from the wind and a heaviness that Matt finds really comfortable for frosty walks in the forest.  He got them pretty muddy along the hem on his first walk in them but, once the mud dried, it brushed fully off and he was able to wear his pants for Christmas dinner (with a dress shirt they actually looked quite nice!)!IMGP2824

The second pair of Jutlands that I made are for my Uncle, but, since he lives a province away, my dad graciously modeled them for a quick photoshoot.IMGP2861

This pair was made using the design options from Variation 2.  I added removable knee pads, a screw driver pocket (instead of cargo pockets), a gusset and the optional lining.IMGP2867

Below are a few photos to show you how the pants appear with the knee pads inserted and without.  My dad commented that they looked a little low when he first put the pants on but I told him to kneel and, low and behold, they sit exactly where they are needed to protect the knees (I designed them this way since it bothers me when knee and elbow patches are placed where the joint sits before the joint is bent…it makes the patches completely useless!).IMGP2862IMGP2875

Next is a shot of the reinforced hems.  The pants are a bit short for my dad because I shortened the leg to suit my Uncle’s 33″ inseam.IMGP2869

My dad found that the lack of cargo pockets on this pair elevate these pants from single purpose work pants (such as the orange canvas pair that I made for him) to multi-purpose winter pants that are heavy duty for use in his workshop but nice enough to wear around town.  He’s hoping they don’t fit my Uncle so that he can add them to his ever-growing pants drawer!IMGP2870

The only image I got of the screw driver pocket isn’t very clear but it at least shows you the placement of the pocket – within easy reach!  I mentioned to my dad that the pocket is maybe a little too long for most screw-drivers and that I wished I had shortened it.  He said, for his uses, that he really liked the length because he would rather be able to fit any long tool in the pocket than have a pocket that is too short and causes tools to slip out.  He said, matter-of-factly, that he would simply stuff a rag in the bottom of the pocket if he wanted to use it for shorter screwdrivers.  My dad…always thinking creatively :D.IMGP2872
Now that the sew-along is finished, you can find it on our website here.  I’d love to see your finished Jutland Pants!  Did anyone make them as a Christmas gift?  Nicole is collecting photos of your versions and she’ll be doing a compilation post of all of them some time in the New Year.  Enjoy the rest of your holidays!

December 30, 2014