Sew-along with us!
Perhaps you'd like some company while you sew? We've sewn up each of our patterns and photographed each step along the way. Find the pattern you're after in the filter drop down below left.
Sew-Alongs
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 1 - Materials
Welcome to the Jutland Work Pants Sew-along! I (Adrianna) look forward to guiding you through creating your pants! Depending on the variation you choose, the supplies you need will differ slightly. You also have several fabric options, whether you want your pants to be more rugged, casual, or athletic. Let's begin by examining some useful tools.
Valuable Tools to have on hand:
- Tailor's Clapper: A tailor's clapper is a great tool to add to your sewing space or you can improvise with materials you have on hand (Morgan's grandmother used to run freshly steamed seams over the edge of her sewing table to flatten them further). The clapper helps to set seams when pressing to give a nice flat finish. You can also use the clapper on bulky seam areas to flatten the fabric to get under your presser foot more easily.
- Seam Jumper: The seam-jumper or Jean-a-ma-jig tool is crucial to sewing over bulky seams on a home sewing machine, even heavy-duty machines. The Jean-a-ma-jig helps to raise the presser foot when stitching so it doesn't get caught on a seam ridge. You can also improvise with a thick piece of cardboard or other sturdy material cut to the necessary shape.
Notions
- 1/2" - 1" (1.3 - 2.5 cm) diameter button (jeans button or sewn on).
- 6" (15 cm) zipper, preferably metal.
- Thread: You will need regular polyester thread (which is stronger than cotton) . Choose something to match the color of your fabric. You may also want optional thicker topstitching thread in a matching or pleasing contrasting color. You could try Gutermann Extra Strong Thread, which is less thick than topstitching thread. This allows you to skip the hassle of re-threading the machine each time you need to topstitch as it can be used for seams and topstitching. My machine is never pleased when sewing with thick thread (it binds up when I backstitch), so I prefer to switch back and forth to ensure that my seams are strong and backstitched securely before I topstitch them. If using topstitching thread, it is essential to only use topstitching thread on the needle side of your machine and regular thread in the bobbin. Most machines do not handle topstitching thread in the bobbin.
- Variation 2: Hook and Loop (Velcro) for the cargo pockets
- Optional: If you are wanting the rugged look of waxed canvas but haven't sourced a factory-waxed material, you can apply Otterwax or similar fabric wax to canvas fabrics to make them water resistant.
- Optional: Rivets for a more rugged look.
Okay, let's move on to discussing our actual fabric options! As you'll see, the Jutland Pants are a very versatile design with the choice of fabric dictating whether the end result is suitable for activewear, workwear, or a casual daily wardrobe.
FABRIC
- Variation 1: Trouser weight wovens (light to medium weight) such as twill, corduroy, wool blends, denim, and gabardine.
Corduroy from Black Bird Fabrics
8oz Cotton Twill from Merchant & Mills
- Variation 2: Trouser weight wovens similar to Variation 1 or materials suited to the intended use of the pants. For example, choose water-resistant cotton or synthetic blends designed for active wear (such as Ripstop) if creating hiking or mountain biking pants.
Ripstop from Fabric Wholesale Direct
- Both Variations: Pocket linings such as broadcloth, quilting cotton, or other substantial, tightly woven cotton or cotton blends.
- Optional Lining: Choose a lightweight material suited to the intended purpose of the pants. For example, choose a cozy flannel material if you are sewing work pants for winter construction. If you are sewing waterproof hiking pants, choose a lightweight mesh or cotton that will be comfortable against the skin and wick away sweat.
Flannel Shirting from Black Bird Fabrics
- Lightweight Woven Fusible Interfacing: You will need lightweight interfacing for the facing, waistband, fly, and optional cargo pocket flap pieces. Choose a lightweight woven or knit fusible interfacing. Depending on the sturdiness and thickness of the fabric you use for your pants, you might not want any additional stiffness from interfacing. Choose a lightweight woven or knit interfacing to reinforce the fabric without adding stiffness.
Lightweight Woven Fusible Interfacing from Core Fabrics
Fabric Sources
Canada
Fabrications Ottawa is a great online shop with a stock of Cone Mills US-made S-gene denim in multiple weights!
Blackbird Fabrics - an online shop just across the water from me! Caroline often has an excellent selection of denim in stock and occasionally gets in a supply of coveted Cone Mills.
Core Fabrics - Heather-Lou is known for her excellent women's jeans patterns. She stocks jean-making kits, including all the notions you need and high-quality denim. They often sell out fast, but you might be in luck snagging a non-stretch fabric kit since these are less in demand than the stretch denim needed for her Ginger Jeans pattern.
Simplifi Fabric - An online shop focused on organic and ecologically friendly fabrics! They have a great selection of denim and canvas.
USA
Stylemaker Fabrics - An organized selection of denim in various weights and amounts of stretch.
Britex Fabrics - They have a few well-priced Japanese selvage denim worth a peruse!
Bolt Fabric Boutique - They have a range of canvas, denim, twill, and water-resistant fabrics that are always stocked.
Fancy Tiger Crafts - An excellent array of denim from various manufacturers - all well-labeled so you can compare the differences. I like the US-made bull denim choices in particular. Bull denim is dyed after weaving to produce a uniform color (whereas regular denim features an indigo warp thread and white weft thread).
Harts Fabric - A comprehensive selection of quite affordably priced denim. I especially like the look of the wide denim, which would save a lot of fabric when cutting out men's larger sizes.
UK
Merchant & Mills - An extensive range of high-end denim very suitable for men's jeans - you might like to make a mock-up first due to the price point of these quality fabrics!
Empress Mills - Some very affordable denim in a variety of weights. A great way to test out a pair of jeans without a considerable investment!
Croft Mill - Another selection of affordable denim and some interesting choices, including prints, pre-washed, broken twill weave, extra wide, etc.
Preparations
Before we continue with the sew-along, make sure to pre-wash your fabric.
You do not need to wash your fabric if you are using a pre-treated or specialty outerwear fabric, such as water-resistant canvas. Instead, follow the fabric care guides for your fabric.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 2 - Choosing a Size & Fit Options
Today, for the Jutland Sew-Along, we are talking about fit. When deciding which size to sew up, we recommend comparing the measurements of your body and a ready-to-wear garment that fits you well to our measurement charts. Here is a tutorial on how to measure a ready-to-wear pair of pants. Note the differences in the Jutland Pants' ease, rise, and inseam length to your RTW garment and body measurements.
Here is a chart to refer to once you've created your first muslin/wearable mock-up of the Jutland Pants (or any other men's pants pattern). Please look at the numbered areas in the diagram below and treat them like a checklist. Are there any strange drag lines or folds of fabric visible?
Usually... Horizontal Lines and Folds = The pants are too tight somewhere
Vertical Lines and Folds = The pants are too loose somewhere
1. Fitting problem: Large Stomach (resulting in a big difference between the natural and trouser waist measurements).
What it looks like: Buckling and tight waistband while seat and legs fit nicely
Potential Solution: Add width to the waist area, blending to the hip at the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces. Make sure to increase the waistband length by the same amount you've added to the pants.
2. Fitting problem: Curved or Straight Hips
What it looks like: Actual hips are more curved than pants - horizontal lines (representing tension) stretch across the fly area. Actual hips are straighter than pants - vertical lines (fabric folds) along side seams in the hip area. Fabric can be easily pinched away from the hips.
Potential Solution: Adjust the side seam lines on the front and back pieces. Make the side seam lines more curvy or straight, depending on your ideal fit. NOTE: The Jutland Pants pattern was drafted to have straighter seams and leg shape.
Here is a tutorial on blending between sizes for our Jedediah Pants. You can apply the same techniques for the Jutland Pants pattern pieces.
3. Fitting problem: Muscular Thighs
What it looks like: Horizontal strain lines in the thigh area. Even if the fit problem isn't pronounced enough to make many strain lines, the wearer will notice little mobility in their pants (when they try to lift their legs to go upstairs in particular).
Potential Solution: Add width to legs in thigh area - from crotch to knee level. Adjust the side seam, inseam, front, and back in equal amounts.
4. Fitting problem: Long or Short Legs
What it looks like: Pants usually fit at the waist but are too long or too short at the hem.
Potential Solution: Fix this BEFORE cutting out your fabric so that the shape of the legs is not altered (by cutting off fabric before hemming). Do this by shortening or lengthening the pattern pieces using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines. See this tutorial on how to do this!
Note: The inseam lengths of the front and back pattern pieces are intentionally different. When sewn together, the pieces must be eased in the thigh area. This creates a good fit as the fabric wraps around the inner thigh. When adjusting the length of the pattern pieces, adjust each leg the same amount rather than make them the same size.
5. Fitting problem: Strain Across Hip and Thigh Area
What it looks like: Horizontal strain lines present across the hips and thighs—misshapen pockets (pulled due to strain). The waistband fits, and the leg width is suitable, so choosing a larger size wouldn't be a solution.
Potential Solution: Analyze where the pants seem most tight and analyze the body shape. Are the person's hips curved? Is the person's bottom rounded? Do they have large thighs? If you are fitting a muslin, try releasing specific seams (the Center Back Seam or the Side Seam) over the strained areas. Whichever released seam erases the horizontal strain lines indicate the area to be adjusted. Refer to Fitting Problems 2, 3, 6 and 8.
6. Fitting problem: Round or Flat Buttocks
What it looks like: Round Buttocks - Horizontal strain lines are present across the hips, side seam is possibly misshapen due to tightness. The Center Back seam is likely curved inwards to match the body's curve (i.e., a wedgie!)
Flat Buttock - Vertical fabric dimples and folds are present on the Pants Back. Excessive fabric is pooling at the side seams. The pants seat looks baggy and unflattering.
Potential Solution: Perform a "Large or Small Seat Adjustment" to add or remove room in the seat area. Don't worry; it's simple! Here are some excellent tutorial links from Seamwork and Closet Core patterns.
7. Fitting problem: Waistband Gapes
What it looks like: The top of the waistband gapes outwards while the seat and legs of the pants fit well.
Potential Solution: A person's waist and hip measurement differs from the proportions the pattern is drafted for. Shorten the waistband to suit the person's measurements and taper the pants slightly by increasing the width of any darts and grading in the side seams. See our Grading Between Sizes tutorial!
8. Fitting problem: Wedgie Effect
What it looks like: The Pants curve at the center back seam inwards. They feel tight as though constantly threatening to "wedgie" the wearer!
Potential Solution: Add room to the Pants Back and change the shape of the crotch curve. Refer to the "Large or Small Seat Adjustment" tutorial. If the tightness feels like it extends along the entire curve (as opposed to only high on the buttocks), refer to Fitting Problem 9.
9. Fitting problem: Crotch Curve Too Short or Too Long
What it looks like: Crotch Curve Too Short - There is not enough room in the pants. The waistband is likely dragging downwards. The crotch feels too tight along the entire curve.
Crotch Curve Too Long - There is too much room in the pants. The crotch appears proportionally too low and baggy, as though the pants are worn on the hips.
Potential Solution: Change the shape of the crotch curve to suit the body shape. Draw a different crotch curve that is either steeper or shallower. Make minor adjustments - a little goes a long way! Use a curved ruler for the best results. If the wearer is only rounded on the back (large buttocks and flat stomach), add length to only the Pants Back crotch curve.
10. Fitting problem: Muscular Calves
What it looks like: There is not enough room below the knees of the pant legs (sometimes the case with tapered pants). Horizontal lines stretch across the pants over the calves. The pant legs continuously ride up throughout the day.
Potential Solution: Reduce the taper of the pant leg from the knee to the hem.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 3- Assemble Front Legs
We will assemble the front legs in today's portion of the Jutland Pants Sew Along. You will need your front leg pieces, front pocket linings, and facing pieces, and for Variation 2, the front knee patch pieces.
Prepare Front Pieces
We will start by applying interfacing to the wrong side of the left front piece (as if you were wearing them) on the fly extension. Cut a strip of interfacing about 1" to 1.5" (2.5 - 3.8cm) wide and apply it to the wrong side of the fly extension, following the manufacturer's instructions. Trim away the excess interfacing that is not attached to the fabric.
Assemble Front Pockets
Staystitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) from the curved edge around the front pocket facing pieces. These staystitching lines will be helpful when turning the fabric under in later steps. This also gives you a guide on where to clip to.
Clip notches into the seam allowances to the staystitching line. Be very careful not to clip into or past the staystitching lines. Cutting notches into the seam allowances reduces bulk when they are turned under.
Press the seam allowances to the wrong side of the fabric, following the curve of the staystitching lines. Turn the fabric towards the wrong side so you can't see the staystitching lines from the front - or you can remove the stitching if it is still noticeable.
Match the facing pieces to the pocket linings. The wrong side of the pocket facing will match the right side of the pocket lining. Pin in place, aligning the raw edges and ensuring the pocket facing is flat.
Stitch the facing to the pocket lining by edgestitching along the curved edge of the pocket facing.
If you want your stitches to be more visible or pop, use a contrast color or topstitching thread for all visible stitching!
I will now be referring to the "right side of the pocket lining" as the side with the pocket facing attached.
With the right sides together, match one front pocket lining piece to one front leg piece along the curved pocket opening edge. Pin in place, aligning the raw edges.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim and grade the seam allowances, making the pocket lining seam allowance slightly narrower.
Make small clips into both seam allowances perpendicular to the stitch line. No need to over-clip, clip every 1" (2.5 cm) or so.
Fold the pocket lining away from the stitch line. Understitch along the pocket lining, catching the seam allowances underneath. Understitching helps keep the seam allowances in place while also helping to create a smooth curve when pressing the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front leg.
Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front leg and neatly press the pocket opening. For a professional finish, turn the seam slightly to the wrong side. This will help to prevent the pocket lining from showing from the right side.
To finish the curved pocket edge, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) away from the curved edge and then edgestitch at 1/8" (3 mm).
We will now be finishing the pocket lining with a French seam along the bottom of the pocket.
First, fold the pocket along the vertical notches so the wrong sides are together, and the two layers along the curved bottom edge are lined up. Pin.
Stitch from the folded edge to the side seam using a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.
Next, trim both seam allowance edges to be 1/8" (3 mm) wide.
Flip the pocket around so that the right sides are together. Neatly turn the corner and press along the curved seam. Stitch along the curved edge again, using a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance to enclose the raw edges. Now you have a tidy French seamed pocket!
Align the top and side edges of the pocket bag and front leg. Baste along the top and side edges to keep the pocket positioned correctly.
Variation 2: Front Knee Patch
Here, I will show you how to add knee patch reinforcement to the front legs. If you would like to create functional knee patches where you can add and remove knee pads, here are two different ways to achieve that! Here is a tutorial on how to make your own knee patches from batting, and here is a tutorial on how to use store-bought knee pads.
Fold under the top and bottom edges of the knee patch pieces at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Match the wrong side of the knee patch to the right side of the front leg. Align the notches and raw edges along the inseam and side seam. Ensure the knee patch is nice and flat against the front leg and pin in place.
Along the top and bottom edges of the knee patch, edgestitch 1/8" (1 cm) from the folded edge and then topstitch 3/8" (3 mm) from the folded edge through all layers.
Baste along the inseam and side seam edges.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 4- Assemble the Back Legs
Today's sew-along will focus on the Jutland Pants Variation 2 Patch Pockets. Here is a tutorial on how to create the Variation 1 Welt Pockets. And here is an extra post including printable pattern pieces to customize the shape and topstitching of your pockets.
To sew the pockets as per the instructions, follow the sew-along below:
Assemble Back Patch Pockets
Serge, bind, or zig-zag the top edges of the patch pocket pieces.
Fold the top of the pocket along the notched fold line so that the right sides of the fabric are together.
Stitch the corners down at 5/8" (1.5 cm) through all layers.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm).
Flip the sewn part of the pocket right sides out. Use a point turner to push out the corners and press.
Fold under the remaining seam allowance edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press carefully so that the pocket appears crisp and square.
Stitch down the top of the pocket.
Make Back Darts
Sew the small shaping dart on the Pant Back by bringing the fabric to meet at the notches and sewing from the notches to the marked point. Instead of backstitching at the mark point, sew off the fabric and leave two strings long enough to hand tie a knot. This will eliminate any potential puckering at the dart point.
Press dart towards center back.
Attach Back Patch Pockets
Match the wrong side of one back patch pocket to the right side of one back leg, aligning the corners of the pocket with the markings on the back leg. Pin in place.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the pocket edge around the pocket through all layers. Backstitch thoroughly at each top corner. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) away from the pocket edge.
Variation 2: Reinforced Back Hem
Fold the top edge of the Hem Reinforcement pieces to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and neatly press.
Match the wrong sides of the reinforcement pieces to the right sides of the back leg hem. Align the top folded edge of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg. Align the side notches of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the top folded edge of the reinforcement piece. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the folded edge. Baste the reinforcement pieces in place along the three raw edges (sides and hem).
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 5 - Sew Inseams and Sideseams
Today, I will show you how to sew the inseam and side seams of the Jutland Pants.
The Jutland Pants are constructed with flat-felled seams on both the inseam and side seams for a rugged look. If you do not wish to do traditional flat-felled seams, you can do mock flat-felled seams or stitch the seams and then finish the seam allowances with a serge or binding.
Side Seams
With the wrong sides together, match one front leg to one back leg at the side seam. Pin.
If you use topstitching thread, position the legs so the front leg faces up.
Stitch the side seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the seam allowances open.
This part is essential to ensure the flat-felled seam is finished correctly. Trim the back leg seam allowance only to a scant 1/4" (6 mm).
Now, press the front leg seam allowance towards the back. Fold the front seam allowance to be 3/8" (1 cm) wide, covering the back seam allowance.
Press well and pin in place.
Edgestitch along the folded edge of the seam allowance.
Variation 2: Cargo Pocket
Variation 2 of the Jutland Pants includes two cargo pockets with pocket flaps sewn over the side seams. For this variation, you need to sew on the cargo pockets while the side seam fabric is flat before sewing the inseam.
First, fold and press the pleats on the cargo pockets. Do this by matching the notches and following the directions in the instructions.
Finish the top edge of the pocket using a serge, zig-zag, or binding.
Fold down the top edge of the pocket at the notches, matching the right sides together. Sew the corners at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim the pocket corners.
Turn the top of the pocket right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and neatly press.
Stitch along the top of the pocket through all layers about 1" (2.5 cm) down from the folded edge.
Cut four hook and loop squares 1" x 1" (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm).
Sew two squares onto the top of the pocket piece.
Match the wrong side of one cargo pocket to the right side of one side seam. Align the corners of the cargo pocket with the markings on the pants.
Pin the pocket in place.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket through all layers. Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket.
If you haven't already, apply interfacing to the wrong sides of two pocket flap pieces.
Match one interfaced pocket flap to one un-interfaced piece with right sides together.
Stitch around the edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm), leaving the top long edge unsewn.
Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners.
Turn the pocket flap right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and press well.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the edge of the pocket flap, leaving the top open.
Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the edge of the pocket flap.
Measure 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the pocket and pin or draw a straight placement line.
Align the raw edge of the pocket flap with this line. Fold the pocket flap down towards the pocket as if sewn, and mark where the hook and loop squares meet on the pocket flap.
Stitch two squares of hook and loop to the inner side of the pocket flap at the markings.
With the hook and loop squares facing up, match the pocket flap to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) line above the pocket. Pin in place.
Stitch the pocket flap to the pants, stitching 5/8" (1.5 cm) up from the raw edge of the pocket flap through all layers.
Trim the seam allowance of the pocket flap to 1/4" (6 mm).
Fold and press the pocket flap down towards the pocket.
Stitch 3/8" (1 cm) down from the top folded edge of the pocket flap encasing the seam allowance. Make another stitch line 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge.
Repeat for the other side seam and cargo pocket pieces.
Inseam
Now, we will sew the inseam with a flat-felled seam. If your pants fabric is too bulky, or you are sewing a smaller size and the leg opening is too narrow and awkward to do this technique, you can stitch the seam and finish the seam allowances together.
Match the front and back legs together at the inseam with the wrong sides together. Pin.
If you use topstitching thread, position the legs so the front leg faces up. Stitch the side seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm). Press the seam allowances open.
This part is essential to ensure the flat-felled seam is finished correctly. Trim the back leg seam allowance only to a scant 1/4" (6 mm).
Now, press the front leg seam allowance towards the back. Fold the front seam allowance to be 3/8" (1 cm) wide, covering the back seam allowance.
Press well and pin in place.
Turn the pant leg wrong side out.
Starting at the seat edge of the inseam, edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge along the entire inseam.
This time, you will work in a tunnel formed by the pant leg, which will feel quite constricting. Just keep pausing (with the sewing machine needle in the down position so your fabric doesn’t slip) to adjust your fabric slightly, and you will be able to get to the end of the tube!
Repeat for the other pant leg!
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 6: Sew the Fly
The instructions for sewing the Jutland Pants Fly Zipper may differ slightly from other patterns you have sewn. Some sewing patterns will have you sew up the fly at the beginning of the sewing process to work with flatter pieces and less bulk. The Jutland Pants, on the other hand, have you sew the fly near the end of the sewing process to allow for easy application of the cargo pockets and a little bit of a sewing warm up before you tackle this involved step!
Sew the Seat Seam
Finish the seat seam and fly-facing edges before you sew up the seat seam. Options include serging, zig-zagging, or binding. If you use a bulkier material, you may want to avoid binding for the seat seam and use the alternative methods instead. Binding is an excellent option for lighter-weight pant fabrics.
Turn the pants legs so that one is right side out and the other is wrong side out.
Place the leg that is turned right side out inside of the leg that is wrong side out. Align the legs along the front and back seat seams, and align the inseams. Pin.
Stitch the seat seam together at 5/8" (1.5 cm) starting from Center Back and sewing towards the front. Stop stitching 1/2" (1.3 cm) below the zipper placement notch (the horizontal notch on the fly extensions). Check that your inseams line up nicely, and stitch over the entire seam 1 - 2 more times for added reinforcement. This area of the pants gets a lot of strain and needs to be sewn very strongly! Use a shorter stitch length while stitching this seam for added strength. Wait to press the seam allowances.
Fold the fly extensions on the front pieces to the wrong side according to the notches.
The Left Front (as if you were wearing them) will be folded and pressed at the notch farthest from the curved edge.
The Right Front (as if you were wearing them) will end up being behind the Left Front, creating a smaller facing and a 1/4" ( 6 mm) extension. Fold and press the Right Front extension at the notch closest to the curved edge.
Fold the zipper shield in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together. Bind, zig-zag, or serge the long curved raw edges together.
We will now be fastening the zipper to the fly shield. You can secure the zipper in place on the fly shield in a couple of ways. One way is by using pins. For this method, with the zipper teeth facing the right side up, match the left edge of the zipper tape with the curved edge of the fly shield. Pin along the left-hand side of the zipper to keep it in place.
My (Adrianna) preferred method of securing zippers in place for stitching is by using wash-away tape. The wash-away tape acts like a double-sided sticky tape that will disappear after washing your garment.
First, trim off a strip of tape from the roll about the length of your zipper to use the wash-away tape. The wash-away tape is relatively sticky, so if it extends over the zipper's edges, it may start sticking to other parts of fabric or threads and get in the way.
Flip the zipper over so the wrong side of the zipper teeth are showing. Place the sticky side of the tape along the right-hand side of the zipper. Using your finger, press the tape along the zipper so that it sticks.
Carefully peel the paper away from the tape to reveal another sticky side!
Flip the zipper teeth to be facing right sides up. Place the zipper's sticky side with the fly shield's curved edge. Using your finger, press along the zipper to stick it in place.
**If you used the pinning method, baste the zipper to the fly shield using a zipper foot.
If you are using wash-away tape, continue below.
With the zipper and shield facing right sides up, cut another strip of wash-away tape about the length of the zipper. Place the sticky side down on the left-hand side of the zipper. Using your finger, press the wash-away tape onto the zipper so that it sticks.
Carefully peel away the paper from the wash-away tape to reveal another sticky side.
With the right sides of the fabrics and zipper facing up, match the zipper and fly shield to the right front of the pants (as if you were wearing them). Position the folded edge of the center front about 1/4" (6 mm) away from the zipper teeth.
Press along the center front edge using your finger so that it sticks to the zipper and fly shield.
Using your zipper foot, edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge through all front, zipper, and fly shield layers.
Now unfold the fly extension on the left front. Position the center fronts of both legs to match the right sides together.
With the right sides together, match the unsewn side of the zipper with the fly extension on the left front.
Using your zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the left front. Make one stitch line close to the zipper teeth. Make a second row of stitching right along the outer edge of the zipper tape.
Position the pants facing right side up to look at the center front. Refold the left fly extension and see how the fronts and zipper lay. Check to ensure the fabric is laying flat, and there are no tension, puckers, or folds in the fabric.
Fold the zipper shield out of the way. Pin the left front fly extension in place.
Using the template, draw a J-stitch line on the left front.
Stitch along the J-stitch marking. If you want to create a double row of stitching to match the topstitching on the front pockets, make another row of stitching 1/4" - 3/8" (6 - 10cm) away from the first one.
You can either echo the same curve the entire length or taper the curve so that it ends at the same point as your first line of stitching.
Finish Seat Seam
Press the seam allowances of the seat seam towards the left leg (as if you were wearing them). Topstitch along the seam through all layers, 3/8" (1 cm) away from the seat seam line. If you made two rows of stitching on the front pockets and J-stitch, make another row of stitching 1/8" (3 mm) away from the seat seam line.
For reinforcement, make a bar tack along the bottom edge of the J-stitch where the seat topstitching, J-stitch lines, and zipper opening meet.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 7 - Belt Loops and Waistband
We are now in the homestretch of the Jutland Pants sew-along! We will now finish the top details of the pants - the waistband and belt loops.
Install Pocket Rivets
At the top of the front pocket openings, make a marking 5/8" (1.5 cm) down from the raw waistline edge.
Following the manufacturer's instructions, install rivets to the top of the front pocket openings just below the 5/8" (1.5 cm) marking.
Installing the rivets before attaching the waistband and belt loops is easier.
Make Belt Loops
Iron the three belt loop pieces as follows: Fold each long edge in 3/8" (1 cm) towards the center of the strip of fabric. Press. Fold the strip in half to enclose the raw edges and press again (just as you would to make binding). Topstitch along either edge to form a flat belt loop piece.
Alternatively, you could make a tube sewing with a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance and right sides together, flip and then press before topstitching. This method would be best for lighter fabrics, as flipping the tube right side out can be frustrating when using heavier twills or denim!
Cut each belt loop piece in half so you now have six pieces. (for Variation 1, you will only need five belt loops, so choose the five pieces with the nicest topstitching).
Line each belt loop up with the top edge of the pants with the right
sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops –
choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Baste the belt loops to the waistline at 1/2" (1.3 cm)
sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops –
choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Baste the belt loops to the waistline at 1/2" (1.3 cm)
Match two belt loops along the front waistline edge, about 1/4" (6 mm), towards the center front from the pocket openings.
Match two belt loops to the side seams of the pants. If that is too bulky due to the flat-felled seam, place the belt loops just to the side of the flat-felled side seam on the back waistline edge.
Match one belt loop to the center back seam.
Attach Waistband
Following the manufacturer's instructions, apply interfacing to one waistband piece if you haven't already.
With the right sides, match the waistband pieces together along the long folded edge. Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the seam allowances open. Trim and grade the seam allowances.
Finish the un-interfaced side of the waistband using a serge stitch or binding.
Match the interfaced waistband side to the waistline of the pants with the right sides together. Align the notch of the waistband with the center back seam of the pants. The narrow waistband edges should extend past the center front edges 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the entire waistband and seam allowances up and away from the pants.
At the center front, fold the waistband pieces to be right sides together along the waistband seam.
Stitch the narrow edges of the waistband together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim the seam allowances and clip the center front corner.
Turn the waistband right side out. Use a point-turner for the corners of the waistband. Neatly press the top and center front edges of the waistband.
Press the waistband seam allowance under from the center front to several inches towards the front pocket. Leave the rest of the seam allowance as is.
With the right side of the pants facing up, edgestitch all around the waistband. Check and make sure to catch the folded edges of the waistband underneath as you are sewing.
Press the exposed edge of each belt loop under at 1/4" (6 mm).
Fold the belt loops up towards the waistband. Match each belt loop's folded edges with the waistband's top edge. Bar tack the belt loops to the waistband.
Press the lower portion of each belt loop to lay flat against the pants.
Bar tack along the lower folded edge of each belt loop, securing them to the pants.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 8 - Hem and Finishing Details
Now for the finishing touches! We are on the last day of the Jutland Pants sew-along. Here is a tutorial for additional resources on how to apply wax to your finished pants or some fun ways to incorporate rivets.
Hem
Try the garment on the soon-to-be wearer to check the length before hemming. Press the hem up 3/4" (2 cm) and again 3/4" (2 cm) to enclose the raw edge.
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
Button and Buttonhole
Add a buttonhole to the center of the left front waistband. Start the buttonhole 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the edge of the waistband. Sew on or install a corresponding button to the right front.
