Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 6 - Front Pockets
FINISH FACING PIECES
ATTACH FACINGS TO POCKET LININGS
ATTACH THE FRONT OUTER POCKETS
Match the front outer pocket to the front at the slanted pocket opening edge. Position your pieces so that the right side of the front is facing up. Match the facing side of the outer pocket to the front. This will be the right side together with the front and the pocket facing, but the wrong side of the lining.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm)
Press the outer pocket and seam allowances away from the front along the seam. If using a bulky fabric, trim and grade the seam allowances.
Fold the outer pocket to the wrong side of the front, along the seam. Neatly press the pocket opening edge so that it is a straight line and not curved or wobbly in any parts. It also is best to press the seam slightly to the wrong side so that you don't see the seam from the right side of the fabric.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the pocket opening through all layers. Next, topstitch along the pocket opening through all layers to create a double row of stitching.
FINISH POCKET LININGS WITH A FRENCH SEAM
**For this section, when referring to "right" or "wrong" sides I will only be referencing the pocket lining, not the facing pieces. This is to make matching the pieces together hopefully less confusing!
Fold the outer pocket up and away from the front. Position your pieces so that you are seeing the wrong side of the front and the right side of the outer pocket lining.
Now you are going to match the front inner pocket lining to the outer pocket lining. With the right sides together, match the lining pieces together at the long straight edges and bottom edges.
Stitch around the edges at a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowances so that they are even and there are no stray threads.
Flip the lining pieces to be wrong sides together. Neatly press the seams.
Stitch again along the edges, this time at 3/8" (9 mm) making sure to encase the raw edges of the fabric from the previous step.
You now have perfectly sewn front pockets finished with a French seam! The reason for the specific "right" and "wrong" sides of the fabric, is so that if you are using a fun, printed fabric for the lining, you can see the lining as shown in the picture below!
Position the pockets into place and baste around the waist and side seam edges to secure the pocket for the next steps.
FINISH THE POCKET LININGS WITH A STITCH AND SERGE
Finish the long straight edges of the inner pocket facings.
Since I am using a heavy fabric I am choosing to leave the finished edges flat instead of folding them under.
With the inner pocket lining pieces facing the right side up, match the wrong sides of the facings to the right side of the linings. Match the side and bottom edges.
Edgestitch along the finished edge of the facing pieces to secure them to the linings. Baste along the bottom and side edges.
Repeat the same steps for the outer pocket facings and lining pieces.
With right sides together match the outer pocket to the front along the angled edge. Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim and grade the seam allowances.
Press the outer pocket and seam allowances away from the front.
Understitch along the outer pocket catching the seam allowances underneath.
Fold the outer pocket all the way to the wrong side of the front.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch and topstitch through all layers along the angled edge.
Now fold the outer pocket away from the front pant. With right sides together match the inner pocket and outer pocket together along the bottom and straight edges.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and then finish the seam allowances together.
Fold the pocket pieces into place and make sure everything is laying nicely with the right sides facing up.
Baste along the waist and side seam edges through all layers to keep the pocket bags in place.