Today we will sew the knee darts for all variations and then apply the knee patches for Variation 1. I've detailed how to slightly adjust the process so that the patches become useful removeable knee pad inserts!
Let's get started: One of the unique details on the Morden Work Pants is the knee darts. The knee darts provide more room in the knee area, making bending and moving around more comfortable - especially when you sew these pants in stiff and rugged materials.
FRONT KNEE DARTS
On the front pieces, form the knee darts by folding the fabric with right sides together along the center of the dart intake, matching notches. Stitch along the dart legs from the side seam towards the marking for the dart tip. Backstitch several times at the dart tip to secure the stitch.
VARIATION 1 FRONT KNEE PATCH
Sew the knee patch darts the same way as the front darts. To reduce bulk in this area, press the knee patch darts in the opposite way you pressed the front knee darts. Alternatively, you can trim the dart intake and press them open.
Baste along the curved and straight top edge of the front knee patches at 5/8" (1.5 cm) to create a guide.
Clip into the seam allowance of the curved edge just up to the basting stitch line. Do not clip past the stitch line.
Press the curved and top straight edge to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm). Use the basting stitch line as a guide to making a nicely pressed curved edge.
Optional for removable knee pads: Finish the raw edges of the bottom of the front knee patch.
Press the bottom edges of the knee patch to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Match the wrong side of the knee patch to the right side of the front leg, aligning the notches at the inseam. Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the top and curved edge of the front knee patch, through all layers. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6mm) away.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the bottom of the knee patch through all layers. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm) away.
Baste around the inseam and side seam edges to keep the knee patch in place.
If doing the removable knee pad option only baste to the knee darts.
REMOVABLE KNEE PAD CONSTRUCTION
Mark on the front leg fabric where the bottom of the knee patch will be.
Cut a strip of hook and loop the length of the bottom edge of the knee patch - not including the short angled edges.
Pin the hook and loop pieces to the right side of the front leg and the wrong side of the knee patch. I suggest having the pieces positioned slightly up from the bottom folded edge of the knee patch so they don't peak out when closed.
Test the placement of your hook and loop to make sure the knee patch will lay flat when closed.
Stitch around the hook and loop pieces to attach them to the front knee patch and front leg.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the bottom of the knee patch fabric only, to keep the seam allowance in place. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm) away.
Close the hook and loop pieces.
At the short angled edges, stitch over the topstitching through all layers. I also included a vertical line of stitching close to the hook and loop for extra reinforcement.
You have now created a pocket opening in your knee patch!
Insert your knee pads (purchased from a hardware store) and test out how they feel in the knee patch.
My knee pads are quite narrow, so I decided to add some additional stitching to help keep the knee pads in the correct placement.
To do this, I first inserted the knee pads and placed them in the correct position.
Next, I made markings on either side of the knee pads.
I removed the knee pads and made stitch lines from the knee darts to the bottom of the knee patch where I marked them. These stitch lines will help keep the knee pad centered over my knee while I use them!
I can't wait to test out these knee pads while gardening!