Today's a big day of progress! We will be sewing the front pockets, side panels and inseam.
Let's begin with the front pockets. First, ensure that your pocket facings ae interfaced.
Next, finished the curved facing edges with your chosen manner such as a serger, zig zag stitch or even folding under the raw edge and pressing. If you choose to fold under you will want to sew a line of basting stitches along where you plan to fold. Next, clip into the seam allowance up to the basting stitch along the curve. This extra step will make pressing under the raw curved edge much easier!
Next, place the facigns on the pocket bags. Position the pocket bags wrong side up on your work surface (the striped fabric shown here didn't have an obvious wrong side but if your pocket lining material does, it works great to place it facing down so that the finished pockets will have colorful linings visible from the inside of the shorts. This is a nice surprise when the wearer goes to put their shorts on.
Notice that the angled pocket opening on the pocket bag is pointed down. Pin the facings in place and then edge stitch around all facing edges.
Now we can attach the pocket bags to the shorts front. Match the shorts front right side with the pocket bag wrong side. Pin along the angled pocket opening. Notice that the facing is now on the bottom.
Stitch the angled pocket opening using a 5/8" seam allowance and then trim and/or grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the seam allowance and pocket opening away from the shorts. Ensure that the pocket opening stays crisp (and the pocket bag isn't inclined to roll to the outside of the shorts) by understitching 1/8" from the seam as shown above.
Fold the pocket bag towards the shorts so the pocket opening appears as it will on the finished shorts. Lastly, finish off the pocket opening by edge stitching along the opening through the shorts and pocket bag layers. You could optionally skip the edge stitching or add a second row of top stitching depending on the look you are after.
To finish the pocket bag, flip the shorts front over so you are looking at the wrong side. Fold the pocket bag up along the fold line (wrong sides together). As per the diagrams in the instruction booklet, you are now looking at the right side of the pocket bag fabric and the facing is on the inside of the pocket. Below is another view with the pocket bag pulled away from the shorts front. We are looking here at the other side of the pocket bag (the side without the facing):
Pin and stitch along the vertical pocket bag side. Finish the seam allowance using a serger or zig zag stitch.
From the right side of the shorts pin the top and side of the pocket bag in place to match the raw edges of the shorts front. Baste. Repeat for the second pocket and they are now functional and finished!
Let's move on to the side panels.
Position one side panel against the shorts front or back with right sides together (the bag is pictured here, the front is shown in the instruction booklet - both work as the first step!). Pin and stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowance using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Press the panel away from the shorts back (or front). Add your desired edgestitching or topstitching along the panel to secure the seam allowance to the panel and create a sporty look.
Add the other half of the shorts (front is pictured here, back is pictured in the instruction booklet). Pin the panel and shorts front with right sides together. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance in the same manner as before.
Press the seam allowance towards the side panel and edgestitch and/or topstitch again.
Repeat this process for the second panel to create a full loop.
Now it is time to sew the inseams!
Position the shorts front and back with right sides together and the inseams align. Particularly focus on lining up the seat/crotch seam. Pin thoroughly.
Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance. Check the seat/crotch seam line up and then press the seam allowance towards the back of the shrots. Finish the seam allowance using your preferred method. You can do edgestitching and even topstitching along this seam if you like though it is easier to make small fit adjustments later if you do not.
Flip your shorts right side out and they are ready for the waistband next!
June 05, 2024 — Morgan and Matthew Meredith