Today we will complete the back and front seat (or crotch) seams on our Bamberton Shorts.
Begin by aligining the two shorts back pieces with right sides together. Stitch along the curved seat seam using a 5/8" seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances together using a serger or zig zag stitch.
Press the shorts back open with the seam allowances towards the left back. Stitch them in place by edgestitching from the right side of the shorts back. Optionally, add a row of topstitching 1/4" away for a faux flat fell seam. This creates a more rugged appearance reminiscient of jeans.
Now it's time to complete the front seat seam. This will be sewn at the same time as a mock fly.
Begin by placing the shorts fronts right sides tigether. Pin along the fly and seat seam and then stitch along the edge (following the curve of the fly) using a 5/8" seam allowance.
Next, mark the true center front using the notch at the waistline. This can be marked with chalk or a pencil and ruler. The line will extend from the notch down to the bottom of the curved fly and will meet with the stitching you just completed.


Sew along this center front line and then stitch the entire center front and seat seam a second time for added strength in this high wear area.

Open up the shorts front and position them on your ironing surface with wrong side up. Press the mock fly and seam allowance towards the left front (if you were wearing the shorts).

Flip the shorts over so the right side is visible. Use the stitching template to mark the fly topstitching on the left front of the shorts (this is currently on the right side of your work surface).

Topstitch along this J-stitch line to secure the mock fly in place. Next, complete the seam underneath the fly by edgestitching 1/8" from the seam. Optionally, match the faux flat fell seam on the back of the shorts by adding a row of topstitching 1/4" from your edgestitching.

Next we will be assembling the fronts and backs along the inseam and side seams!


June 05, 2024 — Morgan and Matthew Meredith