Today we are sewing the back patch pockets for Variation 1 and 3 of the Bamberton shorts. Before we begin, make sure that two of your four back pocket flaps are interfaced.

Assemble the flaps by placing one interfaced and one non-interfaced flap with right sides together. Repeat for the second flap. Sew around the sides and bottom edge using a 5/8" seam allowance. Reduce bulk if needed by grading one seam allowance shorter than the other and by clipping the corners.


Flip the pocket flaps right side out and press crisply. Finish them off by topstitching and/or edgestitching. Depending on the look you are after for your shorts you might like to complete your shorts with minimalist edgestitching 1/8" from the pocket flap edge (and then repeat this style of stitching whereever topstitching or edgestitching is called for. This is a great look for color blocked shorts and swim shorts in particular.

To create a more rugged look, add a second row of stitching 1/4" inwards. This is called topstitching. It is a great choice aesthetically for hiking shorts and any shorts sewn with a more rigid and sturdy fabric.

Complete the flaps by creating a vertical buttohole to suit the size of your chosen button.

Let's move on to the patch pockets themselves. Above you can see we've finished the raw edges of the pocket. This is optional and is a nice way to prevent wear on the pockets if they will be used often as the constant in an out of a phone or wallet can fray unfinished edges.

Turn under the pocket hem along the first notch. Turn under again at the second notch to create a wide hem. Press.

Stitch across the pocket opening hem to secure it. Our instructions suggest stitching from the right side of the pocket to ensure the most attractive stitching on the outside of the garment but you can also stitch from the wrong side if you are happy with how your bobbin stitches are performing.


Turn the remaining edges under using 5/8" seam allowances. Press thoroughly.

Place the pocket onto the shorts back using the pocket placement markings. I like to pin the pockets in place and then hold the two shorts back pieces with right sides together to ensure that the pockets are exactly aligned with each other.

Stitch around the pocket sides and bottom using 1/8" edgestitching and the optional extra row of topstitching. If only adding edgestitching, you can add a sturdy upper corner to your pockets by completing your edgestitching with a small triangle shape as pictured above.

Add the flap above the patch pockets by placing it pointed up with the right side of the flap (the more attractive side of the buttonhole) facing the right side of the shorts. Align the raw flap edge with the top of the pocket. Stitch 5/8" up along the pocket flap markings.

Trim the excess seam allowance from the pocket flap. Press the pocket flap down.

Stitch the pocket flap down by edge stitching and top stitching across the top of the flap. This will also enclose the raw seam allowance.


Repeat this process for the second pocket and flap. Add the buttons to your pockets at the marking. And now your pockets are complete!

June 05, 2024 — Morgan and Matthew Meredith