Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 5 - Sew Inseams and Sideseams

Today, I will show you how to sew the inseam and side seams of the Jutland Pants.

The Jutland Pants are constructed with flat-felled seams on both the inseam and side seams for a rugged look. If you do not wish to do traditional flat-felled seams, you can do mock flat-felled seams or stitch the seams and then finish the seam allowances with a serge or binding. 

  

  

With the wrong sides together, match one front leg to one back leg at the side seam. Pin.

If you use topstitching thread, position the legs so the front leg faces up. 

Stitch the side seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm).

  

  

  

Press the seam allowances open.

  

  

  

  

This part is essential to ensure the flat-felled seam is finished correctly. Trim the back leg seam allowance only to a scant 1/4" (6 mm).

  

  

  

Now, press the front leg seam allowance towards the back. Fold the front seam allowance to be 3/8" (1 cm) wide, covering the back seam allowance.

Press well and pin in place.

  

  

  

Edgestitch along the folded edge of the seam allowance.

  

  

  

  

Variation 2 of the Jutland Pants includes two cargo pockets with pocket flaps sewn over the side seams. For this variation, you need to sew on the cargo pockets while the side seam fabric is flat before sewing the inseam.

  

First, fold and press the pleats on the cargo pockets. Do this by matching the notches and following the directions in the instructions.

  

  

  

Finish the top edge of the pocket using a serge, zig-zag, or binding.

  

  

  

Fold down the top edge of the pocket at the notches, matching the right sides together. Sew the corners at 5/8" (1.5 cm).

  

  

  

Trim the pocket corners. 

  

  

  

Turn the top of the pocket right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and neatly press.

Stitch along the top of the pocket through all layers about 1" (2.5 cm) down from the folded edge.

  

  

Cut four hook and loop squares 1" x 1" (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm).

  

  

Sew two squares onto the top of the pocket piece.

  

  

  

Match the wrong side of one cargo pocket to the right side of one side seam. Align the corners of the cargo pocket with the markings on the pants.

  

Pin the pocket in place.

  

  

  

Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket through all layers. Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket.

  

  

  

  

If you haven't already, apply interfacing to the wrong sides of two pocket flap pieces. 

  

Match one interfaced pocket flap to one un-interfaced piece with right sides together.

Stitch around the edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm), leaving the top long edge unsewn. 

  

  

  

  

Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners.

  

  

  

  

Turn the pocket flap right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and press well.

  

  

  

  

Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the edge of the pocket flap, leaving the top open.

Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the edge of the pocket flap.

  

  

  

Measure 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the pocket and pin or draw a straight placement line.

  

  

  

  

Align the raw edge of the pocket flap with this line. Fold the pocket flap down towards the pocket as if sewn, and mark where the hook and loop squares meet on the pocket flap.

  

  

  

  

Stitch two squares of hook and loop to the inner side of the pocket flap at the markings.

  

  

  

  

With the hook and loop squares facing up, match the pocket flap to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) line above the pocket. Pin in place.

  

  

  

  

Stitch the pocket flap to the pants, stitching 5/8" (1.5 cm) up from the raw edge of the pocket flap through all layers. 

  

  

  

  

Trim the seam allowance of the pocket flap to 1/4" (6 mm).

  

  

  

  

Fold and press the pocket flap down towards the pocket.

  

Stitch 3/8" (1 cm) down from the top folded edge of the pocket flap encasing the seam allowance. Make another stitch line 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge.

  

Repeat for the other side seam and cargo pocket pieces.

  

  

  

  

  

Now, we will sew the inseam with a flat-felled seam. If your pants fabric is too bulky, or you are sewing a smaller size and the leg opening is too narrow and awkward to do this technique, you can stitch the seam and finish the seam allowances together.   

  

  

Match the front and back legs together at the inseam with the wrong sides together. Pin. 

  

  

  

  

  

  

Turn the pant leg wrong side out.

  

  

  

  

Starting at the seat edge of the inseam, edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge along the entire inseam.

  

  

  

  

This time, you will work in a tunnel formed by the pant leg, which will feel quite constricting. Just keep pausing (with the sewing machine needle in the down position so your fabric doesn’t slip) to adjust your fabric slightly, and you will be able to get to the end of the tube!

  

  

Repeat for the other pant leg!