Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 4- Assemble the Back Legs
Today's sew-along will focus on the Jutland Pants Variation 2 Patch Pockets. Here is a tutorial on how to create the Variation 1 Welt Pockets. And here is an extra post including printable pattern pieces to customize the shape and topstitching of your pockets.
To sew the pockets as per the instructions, follow the sew-along below:
Assemble Back Patch Pockets
Serge, bind, or zig-zag the top edges of the patch pocket pieces.
Fold the top of the pocket along the notched fold line so that the right sides of the fabric are together.
Stitch the corners down at 5/8" (1.5 cm) through all layers.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm).
Flip the sewn part of the pocket right sides out. Use a point turner to push out the corners and press.
Fold under the remaining seam allowance edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press carefully so that the pocket appears crisp and square.
Stitch down the top of the pocket.
Make Back Darts
Sew the small shaping dart on the Pant Back by bringing the fabric to meet at the notches and sewing from the notches to the marked point. Instead of backstitching at the mark point, sew off the fabric and leave two strings long enough to hand tie a knot. This will eliminate any potential puckering at the dart point.
Press dart towards center back.
Attach Back Patch Pockets
Match the wrong side of one back patch pocket to the right side of one back leg, aligning the corners of the pocket with the markings on the back leg. Pin in place.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the pocket edge around the pocket through all layers. Backstitch thoroughly at each top corner. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) away from the pocket edge.
Variation 2: Reinforced Back Hem
Fold the top edge of the Hem Reinforcement pieces to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and neatly press.
Match the wrong sides of the reinforcement pieces to the right sides of the back leg hem. Align the top folded edge of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg. Align the side notches of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the top folded edge of the reinforcement piece. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the folded edge. Baste the reinforcement pieces in place along the three raw edges (sides and hem).
