Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 2 - Choosing a Size & Fit Options
Today, for the Jutland Sew-Along, we are talking about fit. When deciding which size to sew up, we recommend comparing the measurements of your body and a ready-to-wear garment that fits you well to our measurement charts. Here is a tutorial on how to measure a ready-to-wear pair of pants. Note the differences in the Jutland Pants' ease, rise, and inseam length to your RTW garment and body measurements.
Here is a chart to refer to once you've created your first muslin/wearable mock-up of the Jutland Pants (or any other men's pants pattern). Please look at the numbered areas in the diagram below and treat them like a checklist. Are there any strange drag lines or folds of fabric visible?
Usually... Horizontal Lines and Folds = The pants are too tight somewhere
Vertical Lines and Folds = The pants are too loose somewhere
1. Fitting problem: Large Stomach (resulting in a big difference between the natural and trouser waist measurements).
What it looks like: Buckling and tight waistband while seat and legs fit nicely
Potential Solution: Add width to the waist area, blending to the hip at the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces. Make sure to increase the waistband length by the same amount you've added to the pants.
2. Fitting problem: Curved or Straight Hips
What it looks like: Actual hips are more curved than pants - horizontal lines (representing tension) stretch across the fly area. Actual hips are straighter than pants - vertical lines (fabric folds) along side seams in the hip area. Fabric can be easily pinched away from the hips.
Potential Solution: Adjust the side seam lines on the front and back pieces. Make the side seam lines more curvy or straight, depending on your ideal fit. NOTE: The Jutland Pants pattern was drafted to have straighter seams and leg shape.
Here is a tutorial on blending between sizes for our Jedediah Pants. You can apply the same techniques for the Jutland Pants pattern pieces.
3. Fitting problem: Muscular Thighs
What it looks like: Horizontal strain lines in the thigh area. Even if the fit problem isn't pronounced enough to make many strain lines, the wearer will notice little mobility in their pants (when they try to lift their legs to go upstairs in particular).
Potential Solution: Add width to legs in thigh area - from crotch to knee level. Adjust the side seam, inseam, front, and back in equal amounts.
4. Fitting problem: Long or Short Legs
What it looks like: Pants usually fit at the waist but are too long or too short at the hem.
Potential Solution: Fix this BEFORE cutting out your fabric so that the shape of the legs is not altered (by cutting off fabric before hemming). Do this by shortening or lengthening the pattern pieces using the "lengthen or shorten here" lines. See this tutorial on how to do this!
Note: The inseam lengths of the front and back pattern pieces are intentionally different. When sewn together, the pieces must be eased in the thigh area. This creates a good fit as the fabric wraps around the inner thigh. When adjusting the length of the pattern pieces, adjust each leg the same amount rather than make them the same size.
5. Fitting problem: Strain Across Hip and Thigh Area
What it looks like: Horizontal strain lines present across the hips and thighs—misshapen pockets (pulled due to strain). The waistband fits, and the leg width is suitable, so choosing a larger size wouldn't be a solution.
Potential Solution: Analyze where the pants seem most tight and analyze the body shape. Are the person's hips curved? Is the person's bottom rounded? Do they have large thighs? If you are fitting a muslin, try releasing specific seams (the Center Back Seam or the Side Seam) over the strained areas. Whichever released seam erases the horizontal strain lines indicate the area to be adjusted. Refer to Fitting Problems 2, 3, 6 and 8.
6. Fitting problem: Round or Flat Buttocks
What it looks like: Round Buttocks - Horizontal strain lines are present across the hips, side seam is possibly misshapen due to tightness. The Center Back seam is likely curved inwards to match the body's curve (i.e., a wedgie!)
Flat Buttock - Vertical fabric dimples and folds are present on the Pants Back. Excessive fabric is pooling at the side seams. The pants seat looks baggy and unflattering.
Potential Solution: Perform a "Large or Small Seat Adjustment" to add or remove room in the seat area. Don't worry; it's simple! Here are some excellent tutorial links from Seamwork and Closet Core patterns.
7. Fitting problem: Waistband Gapes
What it looks like: The top of the waistband gapes outwards while the seat and legs of the pants fit well.
Potential Solution: A person's waist and hip measurement differs from the proportions the pattern is drafted for. Shorten the waistband to suit the person's measurements and taper the pants slightly by increasing the width of any darts and grading in the side seams. See our Grading Between Sizes tutorial!
8. Fitting problem: Wedgie Effect
What it looks like: The Pants curve at the center back seam inwards. They feel tight as though constantly threatening to "wedgie" the wearer!
Potential Solution: Add room to the Pants Back and change the shape of the crotch curve. Refer to the "Large or Small Seat Adjustment" tutorial. If the tightness feels like it extends along the entire curve (as opposed to only high on the buttocks), refer to Fitting Problem 9.
9. Fitting problem: Crotch Curve Too Short or Too Long
What it looks like: Crotch Curve Too Short - There is not enough room in the pants. The waistband is likely dragging downwards. The crotch feels too tight along the entire curve.
Crotch Curve Too Long - There is too much room in the pants. The crotch appears proportionally too low and baggy, as though the pants are worn on the hips.
Potential Solution: Change the shape of the crotch curve to suit the body shape. Draw a different crotch curve that is either steeper or shallower. Make minor adjustments - a little goes a long way! Use a curved ruler for the best results. If the wearer is only rounded on the back (large buttocks and flat stomach), add length to only the Pants Back crotch curve.
10. Fitting problem: Muscular Calves
What it looks like: There is not enough room below the knees of the pant legs (sometimes the case with tapered pants). Horizontal lines stretch across the pants over the calves. The pant legs continuously ride up throughout the day.
Potential Solution: Reduce the taper of the pant leg from the knee to the hem.
