Sew-along with us!
Perhaps you'd like some company while you sew? We've sewn up each of our patterns and photographed each step along the way. Find the pattern you're after in the filter drop down below left.
Sew-Alongs
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 3- Assemble Front Legs
We will assemble the front legs in today's portion of the Jutland Pants Sew Along. You will need your front leg pieces, front pocket linings, and facing pieces, and for Variation 2, the front knee patch pieces.
Prepare Front Pieces
We will start by applying interfacing to the wrong side of the left front piece (as if you were wearing them) on the fly extension. Cut a strip of interfacing about 1" to 1.5" (2.5 - 3.8cm) wide and apply it to the wrong side of the fly extension, following the manufacturer's instructions. Trim away the excess interfacing that is not attached to the fabric.
Assemble Front Pockets
Staystitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) from the curved edge around the front pocket facing pieces. These staystitching lines will be helpful when turning the fabric under in later steps. This also gives you a guide on where to clip to.
Clip notches into the seam allowances to the staystitching line. Be very careful not to clip into or past the staystitching lines. Cutting notches into the seam allowances reduces bulk when they are turned under.
Press the seam allowances to the wrong side of the fabric, following the curve of the staystitching lines. Turn the fabric towards the wrong side so you can't see the staystitching lines from the front - or you can remove the stitching if it is still noticeable.
Match the facing pieces to the pocket linings. The wrong side of the pocket facing will match the right side of the pocket lining. Pin in place, aligning the raw edges and ensuring the pocket facing is flat.
Stitch the facing to the pocket lining by edgestitching along the curved edge of the pocket facing.
If you want your stitches to be more visible or pop, use a contrast color or topstitching thread for all visible stitching!
I will now be referring to the "right side of the pocket lining" as the side with the pocket facing attached.
With the right sides together, match one front pocket lining piece to one front leg piece along the curved pocket opening edge. Pin in place, aligning the raw edges.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim and grade the seam allowances, making the pocket lining seam allowance slightly narrower.
Make small clips into both seam allowances perpendicular to the stitch line. No need to over-clip, clip every 1" (2.5 cm) or so.
Fold the pocket lining away from the stitch line. Understitch along the pocket lining, catching the seam allowances underneath. Understitching helps keep the seam allowances in place while also helping to create a smooth curve when pressing the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front leg.
Turn the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front leg and neatly press the pocket opening. For a professional finish, turn the seam slightly to the wrong side. This will help to prevent the pocket lining from showing from the right side.
To finish the curved pocket edge, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) away from the curved edge and then edgestitch at 1/8" (3 mm).
We will now be finishing the pocket lining with a French seam along the bottom of the pocket.
First, fold the pocket along the vertical notches so the wrong sides are together, and the two layers along the curved bottom edge are lined up. Pin.
Stitch from the folded edge to the side seam using a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.
Next, trim both seam allowance edges to be 1/8" (3 mm) wide.
Flip the pocket around so that the right sides are together. Neatly turn the corner and press along the curved seam. Stitch along the curved edge again, using a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance to enclose the raw edges. Now you have a tidy French seamed pocket!
Align the top and side edges of the pocket bag and front leg. Baste along the top and side edges to keep the pocket positioned correctly.
Variation 2: Front Knee Patch
Here, I will show you how to add knee patch reinforcement to the front legs. If you would like to create functional knee patches where you can add and remove knee pads, here are two different ways to achieve that! Here is a tutorial on how to make your own knee patches from batting, and here is a tutorial on how to use store-bought knee pads.
Fold under the top and bottom edges of the knee patch pieces at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Match the wrong side of the knee patch to the right side of the front leg. Align the notches and raw edges along the inseam and side seam. Ensure the knee patch is nice and flat against the front leg and pin in place.
Along the top and bottom edges of the knee patch, edgestitch 1/8" (1 cm) from the folded edge and then topstitch 3/8" (3 mm) from the folded edge through all layers.
Baste along the inseam and side seam edges.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 4- Assemble the Back Legs
Today's sew-along will focus on the Jutland Pants Variation 2 Patch Pockets. Here is a tutorial on how to create the Variation 1 Welt Pockets. And here is an extra post including printable pattern pieces to customize the shape and topstitching of your pockets.
To sew the pockets as per the instructions, follow the sew-along below:
Assemble Back Patch Pockets
Serge, bind, or zig-zag the top edges of the patch pocket pieces.
Fold the top of the pocket along the notched fold line so that the right sides of the fabric are together.
Stitch the corners down at 5/8" (1.5 cm) through all layers.
Trim the seam allowances to 1/4" (6 mm).
Flip the sewn part of the pocket right sides out. Use a point turner to push out the corners and press.
Fold under the remaining seam allowance edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press carefully so that the pocket appears crisp and square.
Stitch down the top of the pocket.
Make Back Darts
Sew the small shaping dart on the Pant Back by bringing the fabric to meet at the notches and sewing from the notches to the marked point. Instead of backstitching at the mark point, sew off the fabric and leave two strings long enough to hand tie a knot. This will eliminate any potential puckering at the dart point.
Press dart towards center back.
Attach Back Patch Pockets
Match the wrong side of one back patch pocket to the right side of one back leg, aligning the corners of the pocket with the markings on the back leg. Pin in place.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the pocket edge around the pocket through all layers. Backstitch thoroughly at each top corner. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) away from the pocket edge.
Variation 2: Reinforced Back Hem
Fold the top edge of the Hem Reinforcement pieces to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and neatly press.
Match the wrong sides of the reinforcement pieces to the right sides of the back leg hem. Align the top folded edge of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg. Align the side notches of the reinforcement with the notches on the back leg.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the top folded edge of the reinforcement piece. Then, topstitch 3/8" (1 cm) from the folded edge. Baste the reinforcement pieces in place along the three raw edges (sides and hem).
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 5 - Sew Inseams and Sideseams
Today, I will show you how to sew the inseam and side seams of the Jutland Pants.
The Jutland Pants are constructed with flat-felled seams on both the inseam and side seams for a rugged look. If you do not wish to do traditional flat-felled seams, you can do mock flat-felled seams or stitch the seams and then finish the seam allowances with a serge or binding.
Side Seams
With the wrong sides together, match one front leg to one back leg at the side seam. Pin.
If you use topstitching thread, position the legs so the front leg faces up.
Stitch the side seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the seam allowances open.
This part is essential to ensure the flat-felled seam is finished correctly. Trim the back leg seam allowance only to a scant 1/4" (6 mm).
Now, press the front leg seam allowance towards the back. Fold the front seam allowance to be 3/8" (1 cm) wide, covering the back seam allowance.
Press well and pin in place.
Edgestitch along the folded edge of the seam allowance.
Variation 2: Cargo Pocket
Variation 2 of the Jutland Pants includes two cargo pockets with pocket flaps sewn over the side seams. For this variation, you need to sew on the cargo pockets while the side seam fabric is flat before sewing the inseam.
First, fold and press the pleats on the cargo pockets. Do this by matching the notches and following the directions in the instructions.
Finish the top edge of the pocket using a serge, zig-zag, or binding.
Fold down the top edge of the pocket at the notches, matching the right sides together. Sew the corners at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim the pocket corners.
Turn the top of the pocket right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and neatly press.
Stitch along the top of the pocket through all layers about 1" (2.5 cm) down from the folded edge.
Cut four hook and loop squares 1" x 1" (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm).
Sew two squares onto the top of the pocket piece.
Match the wrong side of one cargo pocket to the right side of one side seam. Align the corners of the cargo pocket with the markings on the pants.
Pin the pocket in place.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket through all layers. Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the side and bottom edges of the pocket.
If you haven't already, apply interfacing to the wrong sides of two pocket flap pieces.
Match one interfaced pocket flap to one un-interfaced piece with right sides together.
Stitch around the edges at 5/8" (1.5 cm), leaving the top long edge unsewn.
Trim and grade the seam allowances. Clip the corners.
Turn the pocket flap right side out. Use a point turner for the corners and press well.
Edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) from the edge of the pocket flap, leaving the top open.
Make another row of stitching 3/8" (1 cm) away from the edge of the pocket flap.
Measure 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the pocket and pin or draw a straight placement line.
Align the raw edge of the pocket flap with this line. Fold the pocket flap down towards the pocket as if sewn, and mark where the hook and loop squares meet on the pocket flap.
Stitch two squares of hook and loop to the inner side of the pocket flap at the markings.
With the hook and loop squares facing up, match the pocket flap to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) line above the pocket. Pin in place.
Stitch the pocket flap to the pants, stitching 5/8" (1.5 cm) up from the raw edge of the pocket flap through all layers.
Trim the seam allowance of the pocket flap to 1/4" (6 mm).
Fold and press the pocket flap down towards the pocket.
Stitch 3/8" (1 cm) down from the top folded edge of the pocket flap encasing the seam allowance. Make another stitch line 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge.
Repeat for the other side seam and cargo pocket pieces.
Inseam
Now, we will sew the inseam with a flat-felled seam. If your pants fabric is too bulky, or you are sewing a smaller size and the leg opening is too narrow and awkward to do this technique, you can stitch the seam and finish the seam allowances together.
Match the front and back legs together at the inseam with the wrong sides together. Pin.
If you use topstitching thread, position the legs so the front leg faces up. Stitch the side seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm). Press the seam allowances open.
This part is essential to ensure the flat-felled seam is finished correctly. Trim the back leg seam allowance only to a scant 1/4" (6 mm).
Now, press the front leg seam allowance towards the back. Fold the front seam allowance to be 3/8" (1 cm) wide, covering the back seam allowance.
Press well and pin in place.
Turn the pant leg wrong side out.
Starting at the seat edge of the inseam, edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge along the entire inseam.
This time, you will work in a tunnel formed by the pant leg, which will feel quite constricting. Just keep pausing (with the sewing machine needle in the down position so your fabric doesn’t slip) to adjust your fabric slightly, and you will be able to get to the end of the tube!
Repeat for the other pant leg!
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 6: Sew the Fly
The instructions for sewing the Jutland Pants Fly Zipper may differ slightly from other patterns you have sewn. Some sewing patterns will have you sew up the fly at the beginning of the sewing process to work with flatter pieces and less bulk. The Jutland Pants, on the other hand, have you sew the fly near the end of the sewing process to allow for easy application of the cargo pockets and a little bit of a sewing warm up before you tackle this involved step!
Sew the Seat Seam
Finish the seat seam and fly-facing edges before you sew up the seat seam. Options include serging, zig-zagging, or binding. If you use a bulkier material, you may want to avoid binding for the seat seam and use the alternative methods instead. Binding is an excellent option for lighter-weight pant fabrics.
Turn the pants legs so that one is right side out and the other is wrong side out.
Place the leg that is turned right side out inside of the leg that is wrong side out. Align the legs along the front and back seat seams, and align the inseams. Pin.
Stitch the seat seam together at 5/8" (1.5 cm) starting from Center Back and sewing towards the front. Stop stitching 1/2" (1.3 cm) below the zipper placement notch (the horizontal notch on the fly extensions). Check that your inseams line up nicely, and stitch over the entire seam 1 - 2 more times for added reinforcement. This area of the pants gets a lot of strain and needs to be sewn very strongly! Use a shorter stitch length while stitching this seam for added strength. Wait to press the seam allowances.
Fold the fly extensions on the front pieces to the wrong side according to the notches.
The Left Front (as if you were wearing them) will be folded and pressed at the notch farthest from the curved edge.
The Right Front (as if you were wearing them) will end up being behind the Left Front, creating a smaller facing and a 1/4" ( 6 mm) extension. Fold and press the Right Front extension at the notch closest to the curved edge.
Fold the zipper shield in half lengthwise, with the wrong sides together. Bind, zig-zag, or serge the long curved raw edges together.
We will now be fastening the zipper to the fly shield. You can secure the zipper in place on the fly shield in a couple of ways. One way is by using pins. For this method, with the zipper teeth facing the right side up, match the left edge of the zipper tape with the curved edge of the fly shield. Pin along the left-hand side of the zipper to keep it in place.
My (Adrianna) preferred method of securing zippers in place for stitching is by using wash-away tape. The wash-away tape acts like a double-sided sticky tape that will disappear after washing your garment.
First, trim off a strip of tape from the roll about the length of your zipper to use the wash-away tape. The wash-away tape is relatively sticky, so if it extends over the zipper's edges, it may start sticking to other parts of fabric or threads and get in the way.
Flip the zipper over so the wrong side of the zipper teeth are showing. Place the sticky side of the tape along the right-hand side of the zipper. Using your finger, press the tape along the zipper so that it sticks.
Carefully peel the paper away from the tape to reveal another sticky side!
Flip the zipper teeth to be facing right sides up. Place the zipper's sticky side with the fly shield's curved edge. Using your finger, press along the zipper to stick it in place.
**If you used the pinning method, baste the zipper to the fly shield using a zipper foot.
If you are using wash-away tape, continue below.
With the zipper and shield facing right sides up, cut another strip of wash-away tape about the length of the zipper. Place the sticky side down on the left-hand side of the zipper. Using your finger, press the wash-away tape onto the zipper so that it sticks.
Carefully peel away the paper from the wash-away tape to reveal another sticky side.
With the right sides of the fabrics and zipper facing up, match the zipper and fly shield to the right front of the pants (as if you were wearing them). Position the folded edge of the center front about 1/4" (6 mm) away from the zipper teeth.
Press along the center front edge using your finger so that it sticks to the zipper and fly shield.
Using your zipper foot, edgestitch 1/8" (3 mm) away from the folded edge through all front, zipper, and fly shield layers.
Now unfold the fly extension on the left front. Position the center fronts of both legs to match the right sides together.
With the right sides together, match the unsewn side of the zipper with the fly extension on the left front.
Using your zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the left front. Make one stitch line close to the zipper teeth. Make a second row of stitching right along the outer edge of the zipper tape.
Position the pants facing right side up to look at the center front. Refold the left fly extension and see how the fronts and zipper lay. Check to ensure the fabric is laying flat, and there are no tension, puckers, or folds in the fabric.
Fold the zipper shield out of the way. Pin the left front fly extension in place.
Using the template, draw a J-stitch line on the left front.
Stitch along the J-stitch marking. If you want to create a double row of stitching to match the topstitching on the front pockets, make another row of stitching 1/4" - 3/8" (6 - 10cm) away from the first one.
You can either echo the same curve the entire length or taper the curve so that it ends at the same point as your first line of stitching.
Finish Seat Seam
Press the seam allowances of the seat seam towards the left leg (as if you were wearing them). Topstitch along the seam through all layers, 3/8" (1 cm) away from the seat seam line. If you made two rows of stitching on the front pockets and J-stitch, make another row of stitching 1/8" (3 mm) away from the seat seam line.
For reinforcement, make a bar tack along the bottom edge of the J-stitch where the seat topstitching, J-stitch lines, and zipper opening meet.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 7 - Belt Loops and Waistband
We are now in the homestretch of the Jutland Pants sew-along! We will now finish the top details of the pants - the waistband and belt loops.
Install Pocket Rivets
At the top of the front pocket openings, make a marking 5/8" (1.5 cm) down from the raw waistline edge.
Following the manufacturer's instructions, install rivets to the top of the front pocket openings just below the 5/8" (1.5 cm) marking.
Installing the rivets before attaching the waistband and belt loops is easier.
Make Belt Loops
Iron the three belt loop pieces as follows: Fold each long edge in 3/8" (1 cm) towards the center of the strip of fabric. Press. Fold the strip in half to enclose the raw edges and press again (just as you would to make binding). Topstitch along either edge to form a flat belt loop piece.
Alternatively, you could make a tube sewing with a 3/8" (1 cm) seam allowance and right sides together, flip and then press before topstitching. This method would be best for lighter fabrics, as flipping the tube right side out can be frustrating when using heavier twills or denim!
Cut each belt loop piece in half so you now have six pieces. (for Variation 1, you will only need five belt loops, so choose the five pieces with the nicest topstitching).
Line each belt loop up with the top edge of the pants with the right
sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops –
choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Baste the belt loops to the waistline at 1/2" (1.3 cm)
sides together (there is no proper right side for the belt loops –
choose the side where the topstitching looks nicest). Baste the belt loops to the waistline at 1/2" (1.3 cm)
Match two belt loops along the front waistline edge, about 1/4" (6 mm), towards the center front from the pocket openings.
Match two belt loops to the side seams of the pants. If that is too bulky due to the flat-felled seam, place the belt loops just to the side of the flat-felled side seam on the back waistline edge.
Match one belt loop to the center back seam.
Attach Waistband
Following the manufacturer's instructions, apply interfacing to one waistband piece if you haven't already.
With the right sides, match the waistband pieces together along the long folded edge. Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the seam allowances open. Trim and grade the seam allowances.
Finish the un-interfaced side of the waistband using a serge stitch or binding.
Match the interfaced waistband side to the waistline of the pants with the right sides together. Align the notch of the waistband with the center back seam of the pants. The narrow waistband edges should extend past the center front edges 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Press the entire waistband and seam allowances up and away from the pants.
At the center front, fold the waistband pieces to be right sides together along the waistband seam.
Stitch the narrow edges of the waistband together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim the seam allowances and clip the center front corner.
Turn the waistband right side out. Use a point-turner for the corners of the waistband. Neatly press the top and center front edges of the waistband.
Press the waistband seam allowance under from the center front to several inches towards the front pocket. Leave the rest of the seam allowance as is.
With the right side of the pants facing up, edgestitch all around the waistband. Check and make sure to catch the folded edges of the waistband underneath as you are sewing.
Press the exposed edge of each belt loop under at 1/4" (6 mm).
Fold the belt loops up towards the waistband. Match each belt loop's folded edges with the waistband's top edge. Bar tack the belt loops to the waistband.
Press the lower portion of each belt loop to lay flat against the pants.
Bar tack along the lower folded edge of each belt loop, securing them to the pants.
Jutland Pants Sew-along: Day 8 - Hem and Finishing Details
Now for the finishing touches! We are on the last day of the Jutland Pants sew-along. Here is a tutorial for additional resources on how to apply wax to your finished pants or some fun ways to incorporate rivets.
Hem
Try the garment on the soon-to-be wearer to check the length before hemming. Press the hem up 3/4" (2 cm) and again 3/4" (2 cm) to enclose the raw edge.
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
Button and Buttonhole
Add a buttonhole to the center of the left front waistband. Start the buttonhole 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the edge of the waistband. Sew on or install a corresponding button to the right front.
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 1 - Gathering Supplies
Welcome to the Morden Work Pants Sew-along! I (Adrianna) look forward to guiding you through the process to create your own rugged and beautifully fitted work pants! To create the Morden Work Pants I highly recommend you gather together a few specialty tools and trusted hardware. These will prevent unneccessary struggle when working with bulky seams and rugged material. Here I will walk you through the different things that you may need to install hardware, sew bulky seams, and embellish your pants.
Useful Tools
- Tailor's Clapper: A tailor's clapper is a great tool to add to your sewing space if you don't have one already. The clapper helps to set seams when pressing to give a nice clean finish. You can also use the clapper on bulky seam areas to flatten the fabric so it will get under your presser foot easier.
- Seam Jumper: The seam-jumper or Jean-a-ma-jig tool is crucial to sewing over bulky seams on a home sewing machine, even heavy-duty machines. The Jean-a-ma-jig helps to raise the presser foot when stitching so it doesn't get caught on a seam ridge. When sewing my pairs of Morden Work Pants I used this tool not only on seams but for stitching the Variation 1 back pockets to the back. I will show in more detail how I used the tool later on in the Sew Along!
HARDWARE
- Button: A no-sew jeans button measuring 1/2"-1".
- Pocket rivets: Rivets are optional if you are using a fabric other than denim since you could also just bar tack very securely at these pressure points but I don't think rivets are optional if you are sewing with denim. They are essential to creating the classic strength and appearance of jeans. Closet Core, Core Fabrics, and Kylie and the Machine have wonderful hardware kits that include zippers, buttons, rivets, and tools to install them.
- Optional tools to apply rivets: Some other tools you may use for installing hardware are a rubber mallet, which can be found anywhere from your local fabric or hardware store; and a rivet setter. Rivet setters tend to be a bit more pricey and harder to come across, but if you plan to use hardware details often, this may be a good investment as it is the easiest way to install hardware!
Essential Notions
- Metal-toothed Zipper: If you can not find the size recommended in the instruction booklet, a longer zipper will do just fine! I will be showing you how to shorten the zipper during the sew-along. We carry 7" and 8" jeans zippers in our shop.
- Thread (Regular and Top-stitching): You will need regular polyester thread (which is stronger than cotton) to match the color of your denim and thicker topstitching thread in a pleasing contrasting color. Some of our test sewers successfully sewed their entire jeans using Gutermann Extra Strong Thread which is not quite as thick as topstitching thread. This allowed them to skip the hassle of re-threading their machine each time they needed to topstitch. My machine is never very happy when sewing with thick thread (it binds up when I backstitch) so I prefer to switch back and forth to ensure that my seams are strong and backstitched securely before I topstitch them. If using topstitching thread it is important to only use topstitching thread on the needle side of your machine, and regular thread in the bobbin. Most machines do not handle well with topstitching thread in the bobbin.
FABRIC
- If you are creating these pants for casual everyday wear, choose trouser-weight wovens (light to medium weight) such as twill, denim, canvas, and gabardine.
- Alternatively, use materials suited to the intended use of the pants. For example, for hiking, mountain biking or outdoor work wear pants choose water-resistant cotton or synthetic blends designed for active wear (such as Ripstop).
Here is some inspiration for fabrics and colors pulled from some of our favorite fabric stores mentioned below!
- Pocketing: You will need pocket lining fabric such as broadcloth, quilting cotton, or other strong, tightly woven cotton or cotton blends. If you are making your Morden Pants out of a heavier fabric you can also use the pocket lining fabric to make the fly facing.
Fabric Sources
Canada
Fabrications Ottawa - a great online shop that includes a stock of Cone Mills US-made S-gene denim in multiple weights!
Blackbird Fabrics - an online shop just across the water from me! Caroline often has a nice selection of denim in stock and occasionally gets in a supply of coveted Cone Mills.
Core Fabrics - Heather-Lou is known for her excellent women's jeans patterns. She stocks jean-making kits including all the notions you need and high-quality denim. They often sell out fast but you might be in luck snagging a non-stretch kit in particular since these are less in demand than the stretch denim needed for her Ginger Jeans pattern.
Simplifi Fabric - An online shop completely focused on organic and ecologically friendly fabrics! They have a great selection of denim and canvas.
USA
Stylemaker Fabrics - An organized selection of denim in various weights and amounts of stretch.
Britex Fabrics - They have a few very well-priced Japanese selvage denim that is worth a peruse!
Bolt Fabric Boutique - They have a range of canvas, denim, twill, and water-resistant fabrics that are always stocked.
Fancy Tiger Crafts - A nice array of denim from various manufacturers - all well-labeled so you can compare the differences. I like the US-made bull denim choices in particular. Bull denim is dyed after weaving to produce a uniform colour (whereas regular denim features an indigo warp thread and white weft thread).
Harts Fabric - A comprehensive selection of quite affordably priced denim. I especially like the look of the wide denim which would save a lot of fabric when cutting out men's larger sizes.
UK
Merchant & Mills - A large range of high-end denim very suitable for men's jeans - you might like to make a mock-up first due to the price point of these quality fabrics!
Empress Mills - Some very affordable denim in a variety of weights. A great way to test out a pair of jeans without a huge investment!
Croft Mill - Another selection of affordable denim and some interesting choices including prints, pre-washed, broken twill weave, extra wide, etc.
Preparations
Before we continue with the sew-along, make sure to pre-wash your fabric. If using denim, I recommend washing it with a cup of vinegar on fairly high heat to set the indigo dye and pre-shrink/pre-soften the denim...unless, of course, you are a denim enthusiast who wants to sew up a pair of raw denim jeans! In that case, you'll want to keep them stiff and saturated with dye by avoiding washing at all!
If you are using a pre-treated fabric or specialty outerwear fabric, such as water resistant canvas, you do not need to wash your fabric. Instead, follow the fabric care guides for your fabric.
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 2 - How to Fit Your Morden Work Pants
The fit of the Morden Work Pants is very relaxed with a mid-rise. There are knee darts to help with mobility and comfort. We highly recommend making a muslin to test for fit and if you need to make any pattern adjustments.
Some very common adjustments that people need to make to pants patterns are:
- Adjusting inseam length
- A front rise or back rise adjustment may be needed if you have a longer or shorter torso, or more or less fullness in those areas than the pattern allows for.
- Taking in or letting out at the waistband
- Tapering or widening the leg opening
- Blending between sizes
In this post, I will walk you through how I made adjustments to my pattern to get the best fit.
To figure out what size to choose and what adjustments need to be made, you can compare your body measurements to our body measurement chart. If you are between sizes always size up and adjust the pattern down.
An easy way to get started is to measure a pair of pants that you already own that fit similarly to the intended fit of the Morden Work Pants. I have a pair of wide-leg jeans that I like the fit of, so I decided to use the measurements of these pants to compare to the garment measurement chart to find my size.
To get the most accurate measurements, it's best to measure the garment while it is lying flat on the floor or a table.
Use a measuring tape to measure your garment, not a straight ruler.
Take the waist, hip, front and back rise, inseam, and leg opening measurements. Write down your measurements and compare them to the garment measurement chart in the instruction booklet. If you are between sizes always size up and adjust the pattern down.
HOW TO MEASURE YOUR GARMENT
Waist: measure straight across the waistband. Double that length for the waist circumference measurement.
Hip: Measure straight across the hip line of the pants. The hip line is typically right above the pant legs. Double this length to find the hip circumference.
Inseam: Extend one pant leg and move the other aside so you can see the seat seam. Start with the edge of your tape measure centered at the seat seam allowance. Measure down the inseam seam allowances to the edge of the hem. Curve your tape measure to match the organic shape of the fabric.
Leg Opening: Measure straight across the leg opening. Double the length to get the leg opening circumference.
Front Rise: Position the front of the pants so you can see the entire length from the waistband to the seat seam intersection. Start with the edge of your tape measure at the top edge of the waistband. Measure to the seat seam intersection, curving the tape measure along the center front.
Back Rise: Position the back of the pants so you can see the entire length from the waistband to the seat seam intersection. Start with the edge of your tape measure at the top edge of the waistband. Measure to the seat seam intersection, curving the tape measure along the center back.
FIND YOUR SIZE
After comparing my garment measurements to the finished garment measurement chart, I determined that I will need to blend between sizes 8 and 10. I will also be making adjustments to the front rise, knee darts, and leg opening.
ADJUSTING THE PATTERN
Here I will walk you through how I adjusted the Morden Pants pattern to match the fit of my jeans. Because I made a muslin sample, I only adjusted the front and back pieces first.
I traced off all pattern pieces for Variation 1. On the front, back, and back yoke I blended from the waist to the hip between sizes 8 and 10.
FRONT RISE: From comparing garment measurements, I only needed to adjust the length of the front rise. The back rise measurement of the pattern is close enough to my pants.
Since I only adjusted the front rise, I cut along the lengthen/shorten line from the center front - to but not through - the side seam creating a hinge in the paper.
I cut a piece of scrap paper and placed it underneath the front pattern piece. Next, I opened up the cut edges to create a wedge shape that opened 3" at the center front. Once everything was in place I taped the adjusted pattern piece to the scrap paper.
After making any pattern adjustments it is important to true the pattern. The first thing I did was blend between the center front edges to create a new center front. Next, I added a small amount of paper to the side seam to true the jagged line that was created by making the wedge shape.
INSEAM/KNEE DARTS: An important feature to note on the pattern is the front knee darts. The front knee darts need to be positioned where the knee of the wearer is, otherwise, the front leg will not fit correctly. This is why there are lengthen/shorten lines above and below the knee darts on the pattern. The position of the front knee darts may need to be higher or lower on the pattern.
When I measured along my inseam to where my knee is compared to the pattern I determined that I had to position the knee darts higher on the leg.
The inseam measurement of my jeans was close enough to the pattern measurement so I did not want to adjust the total inseam length.
First, I cut along the lengthen/shorten line above the knee darts.
To move the knee darts up, I overlapped the cut edges by 1 1/4" (3 cm).
To keep the inseam at 30 3/4" (78 cm) the pattern needed to be lengthened below the knee darts the same amount.
To do this, I cut along the lengthen/shorten line below the knee darts and separated the cut edges 1 1/4" (3 cm) placing a scrap piece of paper underneath. I taped the pattern to the paper and trued the inseam and side seam lines.
LEG OPENING: The leg opening of my jeans is slightly more tapered than the Morden Pants pattern. To get the fit that I wanted I took 3/4" (2 cm) off the leg opening from both the inseam and side seam. I then blended from the knee darts to the hem to create new inseam and side seam lines.
The same adjustment was made to the lower back pattern piece, blending from the top of the pattern to the hem. Since I was confident this was an adjustment I wanted to keep, I went ahead and repatterned the back hem reinforcement piece to match the new shape of the lower back.
FITTING THE MUSLIN
I basted up a sample in muslin fabric to test out my pattern adjustments.
The reason why we encourage sewing up a muslin, even after making flat pattern adjustments, is that you may find other adjustments need to be made - or you might not like the adjustments you did make - once the pattern is sewn up in fabric.
A very common adjustment made to pants patterns is adjusting the waistband. The Morden Work Pants have a straight waistband to allow for more comfort and mobility. Due to being a straight waistband, however, you may find there is a gap at the top of the waistband at the center back.
For my pants, the waistband had just a little too much of a center back gap so I decided to take that in.
After trying on the sample, I realized I should have done a straight size 10 instead of blending to an 8 at the waist. I plan on using my Morden Work Pants for gardening and yard work which will require a lot of ease of movement. The sample fit was just a little too tight around my upper hip area - which you can see from the horizontal drag lines of the fabric - making sitting and bending uncomfortable.
Now I will show you how I made the additional adjustments needed after testing out my sample and finishing the adjustments to other important pattern pieces!
WAISTBAND
From pinning my sample I determined the amount needed to take out from the top of the waistband.
First and most importantly, I traced a new waistband piece that was a size 10.
To take the amount off of the top of the waistband only, the pattern piece will now look like the picture below. Since the waistband piece is folded when finished, the center of the pattern piece is technically the "top" of the waistband. I took in the amount needed at the center of the pattern piece and then angled it out to the long edges of the pattern piece.
FLY FACING AND SHIELD
Because I added length to the front rise, I also need to lengthen the fly facing and fly shield pieces to match. Since both pieces are squared off at the top, I simply traced off new pieces that were 3" longer.
HIP/WAIST AREA
Since I determined I needed to use a straight size 10, I added scrap paper to the front and back pattern pieces at the side seam from the thigh area to the top of the piece. I then traced and blended out my pattern to match the size 10 side seam. Lastly, I traced off a size 10 back yoke pattern piece.
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 3 - Pockets, pockets, pockets!
It's time to start sewing! Today we wil tackle many of the detailed pockets prior to assembling the pants themselves.
The instruction booklet begins with applying interfacing to the necessary pieces and making belt loops. If you haven't already interfaced the listed pieces, do so now. I assembled my belt loops later on when I was ready to add them to the almost finished work pants - skip ahead to this post to see the photographed steps! These same steps apply to the hammer loop.
Ok, let's move on to pockets:
Variation 1 is designed to have multiple pockets for any of your workwear needs. The pockets are designed to be reinforced in self-fabric for extra durability, especially if you plan to carry any tools or hardware that may wear on them over time.
If you are using a heavy-weight fabric (10oz or more) we recommend skipping reinforcing your pockets, as they will become too bulky and difficult to sew. To finish the pockets without the reinforcement pieces, just fold in the edges where the instructions say to sew.
Variation 2 only has the top back pockets with no reinforcement pieces.
COIN POCKET
Variation 1 also comes with a coin pocket design. The coin pocket can be added to Variation 2 as well if you are wanting more of a jeans look. The coin pocket will be assembled and attached to the Right Front Inner Pocket Facing piece before being sewn to the pocket lining.
Fold the top edge of the coin pocket two times to the wrong side of the fabric, following the notches, enclosing the raw edge.
Edgestitch along the lower folded edge.
If you are using topstitching thread, flip your coin pocket so the right side of the fabric is facing up. Make sure your machine is threaded with topstitching thread on the top and regular thread in your bobbin. Stitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) down from the top folded edge.
Press the long, straight edge of the coin pocket to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
With the right sides facing up, place the coin pocket on top of the inner pocket facing piece. Align the notches and lower edges. Stitch the coin pocket to the inner pocket facing piece using a regular stitch along the pressed edge. Baste around the lower and notched edges to keep the coin pocket in place.
BACK POCKETS
There are five reinforced back pocket pieces. Despite the different shapes of the pockets, they all have the same construction steps.
For each style, there is a "pocket" piece and a "reinforcement" piece. The reinforcement piece is slightly smaller than the pocket piece.
Back Top Pocket & Reinforcement:
Right Angled Pocket & Reinforcement:
Right Top Pocket & Reinforcement:
Left Side Pocket & Reinforcement
The first step is to prepare the pocket pieces. To do this, fold the top edges of the pocket pieces to the wrong side following the notches. Give your fabric a good press so that you can see the pressed lines, then unfold the fabric.
Next, you will be matching the reinforcement piece to the corresponding pocket piece. Match the pieces together with the right sides together, aligning any notches, and lower edges.
The left and right pockets will get sewn into the side seam. Because of this, you only need to stitch together the un-notched side and bottom edges of the pocket and reinforcement pieces. The notched edges will get basted to the Back side seam in later steps.
For the top back pocket and reinforcement, stitch all around the curved edges.
To reduce bulk, trim and grade the seam allowances and clip at an angle at the corners.
On the top back pocket, clip and notch along the curved edges to further reduce bulk in the seam allowances. This technique also helps to press a nice smooth curve in the fabric once it is turned right side out.
Turn your pocket and reinforcement pieces right side out. Press the sewn edges neatly and use a point turner for any corners. The tailor's clapper would be super helpful for this step. Using the clapper when pressing will help to flatten the seam allowances and press a nice straight or curved edge.
Fold the top edge into place, following the pressing lines from step one. The top edge of the pocket will fold over the top raw edge of the reinforcement piece.
Edgestitch along the lower fold line.
If using topstitching thread, turn the pocket unit right side facing up. Make sure your machine is threaded with topstitching thread on the needle side and regular thread in the bobbin. Stitch 5/8" (1.5 cm) from the top folded edge. Do this for all the pocket pieces.
ATTACHING POCKETS TO THE BACK LEG
Now we will be attaching the pockets. For the following steps, it will be super handy to have your clapper, seam-jumper, and mallet near by.
Since the fabric I am using is quite thick, instead of basting the right side pocket and right angled pocket together as the instructions say, I am going to attach the right angled pocket to the back and then the right side pocket on top.
With right sides facing up, match the angled pocket to the back pant. Align the pocket markings. Pin in place. If your fabric is too bulky for pins you can use wash away tape instead or mark the outer edges of the pocket onto the back pant to align with when sewing.
When sewing on the side pocket, using a seam-jumper will help immensely so that your machine doesn't get stuck at the corners. What the seam-jumper does is even out the surface height for the presser foot so that the tension of the stitches stays even. As you can see from the image below, the bulk of my side pocket was even a little taller than the seam jumper! Even though that was the case, the seam-jumper still helped with stitching compared to not having that and the foot getting stuck from being angled from the single layer of fabric to the pocket. If you are having trouble getting the bulk of the pocket under the presser foot, use your clapper or mallet to flatten the layers of fabric.
Baste along the side seam through all layers.
CREATIVE TIP: Make two rows of stitching when attaching the pockets for more of a rugged workwear look. First, edgestitch along the pocket (1/8" - 3 mm away from the edge), then topstitch (1/4" - 6 mm away from the edge).
ATTACH THE RIGHT TOP BACK POCKET
The back top pocket will go on next. Align the back top pocket with the pocket markings near the top of the back pant. The back top pocket will cover the angled corner of the side pocket. Pin in place and stitch around the curved edges of the pocket.
CREATIVE TIP: Make two rows of stitching when attaching the pockets for more of a rugged workwear look. First edgestitch along the pocket (1/8" - 3 mm away from the edge), then topstitch (1/4" - 6 mm away from the edge).
Follow the same construction steps from the right side pocket for attaching the left side pocket.
ATTACH THE LEFT TOP BACK POCKET AND HAMMER LOOP
(Instructions for sewing the hammer loop in the "Belt Loop" post)
Match the hammer loop to the left back piece. Align one short edge between the notches on the side seam, and baste in place. For this next part, determine how much slack you would like your finished hammer loop to have. If you don't want it to have any slack, lay the hammer loop flat against the back piece and baste the short edge to the back. Cut the length of the hammer loop smaller if it is too long. If you would like some slack in your hammer loop, fold the hammer loop slightly to create a bump and then baste the short edge to the back. Make sure the short edge doesn't go too far towards the side seam that it goes past the back top pocket markings.
Match the back top pocket to the back, covering the edge of the hammer loop. Align the corners of the back top pocket to the pocket markings. Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the back top pocket, matching how you attached the other back pockets.
For reinforcement on the pocket pieces, you can add a bar tack or rivet.
Once I had my pocket sewn on, all the layers of fabric were too thick for a rivet, so I made a bar tack instead. Always check on a scrap piece of fabric if a bar tack or rivet will work on your final project. Sometimes thinner fabrics are more prone to ripping or tearing and a rivet may contribute to this.
You can add reinforcement to all the pocket corners.
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 4 - Assemble Back Pant
The following steps are for all variations. Today we will add the yoke, sew the seat seam, attach the gusset, attach the lower back legs, and apply the hem reinforcements. As I sew I will also be demonstrating how to do flat felled seams on the right side of the fabric vs the wrong side for a true flat fell seam!
ATTACH BACK YOKE
With the wrong sides together, match one back yoke piece to the top of the corresponding back piece. The wider end of the yoke will be towards the rise side and the short end of the yoke will go towards the side seam side.
Align notches and pin them together.
This part is very important for utilizing your topstitching thread correctly. Before sewing, position your pieces so that the back pant is facing right side up. Thread the needle side of your machine with topstitching thread and keep regular thread in your bobbin.
Stitch along the seam with a 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance.
Press the seam allowances open along the stitch line.
Trim the seam allowance edge of the BACK YOKE only to about 1/4" (6 mm). DO NOT TRIM THE BACK PANT SEAM ALLOWANCE. We will use this to create the fell.
Fold and press the seam allowance edge of the back pant to be about 3/8" (9 mm) wide.
Press the folded-back pant seam allowance up towards the back yoke and cover the trimmed back yoke seam allowance edge. Trim away any loose fabric threads and make sure no raw edges of the seam allowance are showing.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the folded edge of the back pant seam allowance, through all layers, to complete the flat felled seam!
Repeat for the other back yoke and back pant pieces.
SEW BACK SEAT SEAM
Now I'll show you how to do a mock-fell seam finish when sewing the seat seam.
With right sides together match the back units along the seat seam. For a professional look, make sure the back yoke seams and topstitching are aligned.
Using either topstitching thread or regular thread, sew the seat seam at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Finish the seam allowances together using your preferred method (zig-zag, serge, binding, etc.) and then press towards the LEFT back.
Flip your back pieces so that the fabric is right side up.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch, and topstitch along the seat seam.
This may be another great time to use your seam jumper when sewing over the yoke flat-felled seams. Because this intersection can be a bit bulky, sometimes the foot and needle will get caught on the seams causing wiggly stitches or tiny, close-together stitches.
ATTACH GUSSET
Open the inseam of the back legs so they are as flat as possible. You will see there is a slight peak where the two back pieces meet at the crotch.
With the right sides together, match the center of the gusset with the back crotch seam and pin.
Ease the edges of the gusset and back legs to match. It may feel a little awkward because you are matching two different curves together. The fabric may bubble in some spots but that is ok!
When sewing, the fabric only needs to be smooth at 5/8" (1.5 cm). Push any bubbles away from the stitch line as you are sewing. Everything will lay nicely once it is pressed.
Finish the seam in your preferred method with the seam allowances going towards the gusset.
ATTACH LOWER BACK
With the right sides together and notches aligned, match the lower back leg piece to the back. The gusset seam will align with the notch closest to the inseam on the lower back.
Finish the seam with your preferred method with the seam allowances going towards the lower back leg.
VARIATION 1 ONLY: ATTACH BACK HEM REINFORCEMENT
Fold the top edge of the back hem reinforcement pieces to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and press.
Match the back hem reinforcement to the hem area of the lower back, aligning the folded edge of the back hem reinforcement to the notch on the lower back leg.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the top folded edge, through all layers. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm) away from the first row. Baste around the other edges to keep the hem reinforcement in place.
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 5 - Assemble Fronts & Tutorial to Add Removable Knee Pads!
Today we will sew the knee darts for all variations and then apply the knee patches for Variation 1. I've detailed how to slightly adjust the process so that the patches become useful removeable knee pad inserts!
Let's get started: One of the unique details on the Morden Work Pants is the knee darts. The knee darts provide more room in the knee area, making bending and moving around more comfortable - especially when you sew these pants in stiff and rugged materials.
FRONT KNEE DARTS
On the front pieces, form the knee darts by folding the fabric with right sides together along the center of the dart intake, matching notches. Stitch along the dart legs from the side seam towards the marking for the dart tip. Backstitch several times at the dart tip to secure the stitch.
VARIATION 1 FRONT KNEE PATCH
Sew the knee patch darts the same way as the front darts. To reduce bulk in this area, press the knee patch darts in the opposite way you pressed the front knee darts. Alternatively, you can trim the dart intake and press them open.
Baste along the curved and straight top edge of the front knee patches at 5/8" (1.5 cm) to create a guide.
Clip into the seam allowance of the curved edge just up to the basting stitch line. Do not clip past the stitch line.
Press the curved and top straight edge to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm). Use the basting stitch line as a guide to making a nicely pressed curved edge.
Optional for removable knee pads: Finish the raw edges of the bottom of the front knee patch.
Press the bottom edges of the knee patch to the wrong side at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Match the wrong side of the knee patch to the right side of the front leg, aligning the notches at the inseam. Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the top and curved edge of the front knee patch, through all layers. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6mm) away.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the bottom of the knee patch through all layers. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm) away.
Baste around the inseam and side seam edges to keep the knee patch in place.
If doing the removable knee pad option only baste to the knee darts.
REMOVABLE KNEE PAD CONSTRUCTION
Mark on the front leg fabric where the bottom of the knee patch will be.
Cut a strip of hook and loop the length of the bottom edge of the knee patch - not including the short angled edges.
Pin the hook and loop pieces to the right side of the front leg and the wrong side of the knee patch. I suggest having the pieces positioned slightly up from the bottom folded edge of the knee patch so they don't peak out when closed.
Test the placement of your hook and loop to make sure the knee patch will lay flat when closed.
Stitch around the hook and loop pieces to attach them to the front knee patch and front leg.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the bottom of the knee patch fabric only, to keep the seam allowance in place. Make another row of stitching 1/4" (6 mm) away.
Close the hook and loop pieces.
At the short angled edges, stitch over the topstitching through all layers. I also included a vertical line of stitching close to the hook and loop for extra reinforcement.
You have now created a pocket opening in your knee patch!
Insert your knee pads (purchased from a hardware store) and test out how they feel in the knee patch.
My knee pads are quite narrow, so I decided to add some additional stitching to help keep the knee pads in the correct placement.
To do this, I first inserted the knee pads and placed them in the correct position.
Next, I made markings on either side of the knee pads.
I removed the knee pads and made stitch lines from the knee darts to the bottom of the knee patch where I marked them. These stitch lines will help keep the knee pad centered over my knee while I use them!
I can't wait to test out these knee pads while gardening!
Morden Work Pants Sew-along: Day 6 - Front Pockets
All variations of the Morden Work Pants have slanted front pockets with facings and linings. There are two ways you can assemble your front pockets. The more traditional way that pocket linings are finished in jeans and workwear is with a French seam finish, which I will show you how to do in the first portion of the sew-along! Alternatively, you can choose to stitch and finish the seam allowances of the pocket linings together which I'll show towards the end of the post. Variation 1 has a coin pocket attached to the right pocket facing.
FINISH FACING PIECES
The first step will be to finish the long edges of both the front inner and outer pocket-facing pieces. If using a fabric lighter than 9oz apply interfacing to the wrong side of the facing pieces following the manufacturer's instructions. Interfacing may not be needed for heavier fabrics.
Using a serge, zigzag, or your preferred method, finish the long straight edges of the outer pocket facing pieces. Finish both straight edges of the inner pocket facing pieces.
ATTACH FACINGS TO POCKET LININGS
**If you are using a solid color pocket lining, choose what will be the right and wrong sides of your fabric. The following steps will not be as crucial, but you must end up with two mirrored sets of pocket facings and linings - make sure you don't accidentally make two of the same sets!
**If using a printed fabric it is important to note when to use the right and wrong sides of your fabric so that your print will be visible.
With WRONG sides together, match the facing pieces to their corresponding lining pieces. Align notches, top, side, or bottom edges. Pin.
If using topstitching thread, you want the topstitching thread to be visible on the right side of the pocket lining. To do this, with your facings pinned to the linings, on the right side of the pocket lining, trace where the edges of the pocket facings are using chalk or a marking pen. With the pocket lining right side facing up edgestitch along the inside of your markings.
ATTACH THE FRONT OUTER POCKETS
Match the front outer pocket to the front at the slanted pocket opening edge. Position your pieces so that the right side of the front is facing up. Match the facing side of the outer pocket to the front. This will be the right side together with the front and the pocket facing, but the wrong side of the lining.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm)
Press the outer pocket and seam allowances away from the front along the seam. If using a bulky fabric, trim and grade the seam allowances.
Fold the outer pocket to the wrong side of the front, along the seam. Neatly press the pocket opening edge so that it is a straight line and not curved or wobbly in any parts. It also is best to press the seam slightly to the wrong side so that you don't see the seam from the right side of the fabric.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch along the pocket opening through all layers. Next, topstitch along the pocket opening through all layers to create a double row of stitching.
FINISH POCKET LININGS WITH A FRENCH SEAM
**For this section, when referring to "right" or "wrong" sides I will only be referencing the pocket lining, not the facing pieces. This is to make matching the pieces together hopefully less confusing!
Fold the outer pocket up and away from the front. Position your pieces so that you are seeing the wrong side of the front and the right side of the outer pocket lining.
Now you are going to match the front inner pocket lining to the outer pocket lining. With the right sides together, match the lining pieces together at the long straight edges and bottom edges.
Stitch around the edges at a 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowances so that they are even and there are no stray threads.
Flip the lining pieces to be wrong sides together. Neatly press the seams.
Stitch again along the edges, this time at 3/8" (9 mm) making sure to encase the raw edges of the fabric from the previous step.
You now have perfectly sewn front pockets finished with a French seam! The reason for the specific "right" and "wrong" sides of the fabric, is so that if you are using a fun, printed fabric for the lining, you can see the lining as shown in the picture below!
Position the pockets into place and baste around the waist and side seam edges to secure the pocket for the next steps.
FINISH THE POCKET LININGS WITH A STITCH AND SERGE
Finish the long straight edges of the inner pocket facings.
Since I am using a heavy fabric I am choosing to leave the finished edges flat instead of folding them under.
With the inner pocket lining pieces facing the right side up, match the wrong sides of the facings to the right side of the linings. Match the side and bottom edges.
Edgestitch along the finished edge of the facing pieces to secure them to the linings. Baste along the bottom and side edges.
Repeat the same steps for the outer pocket facings and lining pieces.
With right sides together match the outer pocket to the front along the angled edge. Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm).
Trim and grade the seam allowances.
Press the outer pocket and seam allowances away from the front.
Understitch along the outer pocket catching the seam allowances underneath.
Fold the outer pocket all the way to the wrong side of the front.
Using topstitching thread, edgestitch and topstitch through all layers along the angled edge.
Now fold the outer pocket away from the front pant. With right sides together match the inner pocket and outer pocket together along the bottom and straight edges.
Stitch together at 5/8" (1.5 cm) and then finish the seam allowances together.
Fold the pocket pieces into place and make sure everything is laying nicely with the right sides facing up.
Baste along the waist and side seam edges through all layers to keep the pocket bags in place.
