Sew-Alongs

Today is the second day of our jeans project - we've selected materials, pre-washed our fabric and now we are ready to choose a size and get fitting!

Both the Quadra Jeans and Fulford Jeans instruction booklets include a handy page detailing how to choose your size.  Let's walk through this visually.  First, have a look at the page below (or, for a higher resolution and larger text, look in your instruction booklet) and then we will look at photos of Matt measuring himself.

You will notice that we need five main measurements.  There are other measurements included in the garment measurement chart but these five are the ones that most significantly effect the fit of the jeans.  Begin by measuring the man's waist circumference:

Make sure the waistband is at his narrowest point, or if, like many men, his narrowest point is no longer at his waist, circle the tape measure at approximately naval level.  When you purchase jeans in the store they will be listed using this waist measurement size.  As we will soon discover, a size 30 jean does not mean that the jean waistband actually has a circumference of 30"!  I'll show you why in a moment.

Record the waist measurement in the chart within your instruction booklet.  Now lets move on to measuring the hips:

Circle the tape measure around the widest point of the hips and seat.  This location can vary for men depending on the shape of their hips and bottom.  Again, make sure the tape measure is horizontal.  Record this measurement in your instruction booklet as well.

Now that we've collected both body measurements, let's analyse which pattern size the man might match.  We will then proceed to collecting garment measurements to firm up our decision.

Matt's measurements are:

Waist: 30"

Hips: 38"

I plan to sew him the Quadra Jeans and so below you will find the Quadra Jeans measurement charts:

The size 30 body measurement chart lists a hip measurement of 37" so Matt is a fairly close match to the size 30 but I might consider grading between sizes depending on how the garment measurements match the size 30 as well.

Let's move on to garment measurements so we can make our decision...these measurements are based on the actual finished jeans and not on the body that fits into them.  To measure the inseam, you need to measure from the crotch seam all the way down to the hem with all wrinkles removed from the jeans:

It is more accurate to do this when the jeans are off of the man and laid flat on the floor but it is important to see the jeans on the man too.  This is because, regardless of the man's preferred fit of jeans, the fit on their body can differ greatly from man to man: Some men let their jeans sit low on their hips and others pull them up high.  Some men like a hem to touch the ground and others like their jeans quite a bit shorter.  Does the man wear his jeans so there is a lot of empty room between the jean crotch and his body (wearing ease)?  The tape measure should not push up into the crotch when measuring but instead simply measure to the end of the seam.  Record this measurement.

Matt's inseam measured about 30" so he may need a tiny bit of length taken off the Quadra size 30 (which have an inseam of 30 3/4").  Since it is only small difference and since the jeans he was wearing are very slim fitting and short legged, I think I would cut out the Quadras as they are and adjust the hem when I baste the pieces together (instead of shortening at the lengthen/shorten line).  If the difference were greater (3-5" or so), taking some length off from the line we provide on the pattern would allow you to preserve the shape of legs (important for the tapered Quadras, not as important for the straight Fulfords!).  We have a tutorial on how to lengthen or shorten a pattern piece on our website.

Now we will measure the rise of the jeans to determine where the waistband will sit on the man's body.  For this garment measurement, you will need to measure the garment on the man.  It helps if the man is wearing jeans/pants with a rise that he really likes when you take this measurement so you can compare his ideal fit to the fit of our pattern.

Have a look at the Rise measurement given under the size that most closely matches the man's waist and hips.  Measure from the crotch of the jeans (again,  where the jeans naturally sit away from the body), up to that number (which is the bottom of the jeans waistband).  The jeans Matt wore had a rise of 8 1/2".  This is a very close match for the size 30 Quadra Jeans which feature a rise of 8 3/8".  This is encouraging news that indicates Matt will probably like the fit of the Quadras!  Place a pin or chalk mark or tie a string around the man at the height of the Fulford or Quadra rise to allow you to take the last measurement - the Garment Waistband.

Circle the tape measure around the man exactly where you placed your Rise marking.  The tape measure should only be wrapped as snug as the man likes his waistband to fit.  If he likes a loose waistband that he cinches in with a belt, you might need to wrap it a bit looser than you usually do.  If he prefers to wear jeans without a belt, you might need to wrap the tape more snug to ensure the jeans will stay up unassisted.

Matt's Garment Waistband measurement is 34 1/2" which is a close match to the size 30 Quadra Jeans (which have a garment waistband of 34 1/4").  Now you can see why the finished jeans will not have anywhere near a 30" waist!  They will be 4 1/4" larger than that!

Now it's time to pick your size!  Keep in mind the following:

• It is more important to match the garment Waistband measurement to our size chart than it is to match the body Waist measurement...the jeans will not be worn at the body's natural waistline so it doesn't matter very much if that measurement is larger or smaller than the size chart due to a belly or an exceptionally tapered waist.
• Choose a size that most closely matches the man's hips and the garment waistband.  Know that you may need to adjust the length of the jeans if the inseam measurement does not match your chosen size.
• If the man's Garment Waistband measures between two sizes, you will likely have a better fit if you size down.  You will still have plenty of room within the 5/8" seam allowances to let out the waistband slightly if he needs a little more room.

Now that you've selected the closest size, you have three choices to test and adjust the fit as detailed below.  Alternatively, you can just sew them up and hope for the best...but I highly recommend taking the time to do one of these options since all of that topstitching makes it difficult to adjust the fit of the hips, legs and seat seam once the jeans are finished.  The waist can easily be taken in or let out though due to our two piece waistband (more on that later!).

Here are three fitting options:

1. Adjust the paper pattern: Make adjustments to the paper pattern before cutting into fabric to suit the man's inseam length and leg width preferences.  This is a good option if tiny changes are necessary but I would not recommend performing too many changes before actually trying something on the man!  Perhaps just grade between sizes at the hips or add/remove a bit of length.
2. Mock up with different fabric: Cut out the pattern as is using a cheap mock up fabric (any stiff medium weight woven will do!).  You can then baste together the pieces quickly and try them on the man so that you can adjust the shape of the lengths, length of the legs, and shape of the seat seam while the mock up is on his body.  Transfer the changes to the pattern pieces and then cut into your real fabric.  This is a good option if the man's measurements fall across several sizes on our measurement chart and lots of changes will likely need to be made.  This allows you to accurately see the fit on the man without any risk of ruining your fabric.
3. Baste together the denim: Choose the size that is the most likely match and cut out the jeans in your actual fashion fabric.  Baste together the pieces to try on the man.  The pattern includes 5/8" seam allowances so it allows you quite a bit of room to play with the shape of the seat seam, the curve of the hips, and the width of the legs.  This is a good option if only one measurement differs from our size chart - perhaps the man's hips are quite a bit narrower than our proportions so you will need to take in the jeans along the side seams.

I usually choose option three when sewing our jeans patterns.  The last time I did this I snapped a few photos so you could see that I baste together at a later point in the sewing process than you might expect!

You can baste all the pieces together before you begin to sew (as I suggest in the instruction booklet), or, if you feel you will likely only need to tweak the fit in the hips a little and test to see if the waistband feels good on the wearer, you could do what I've done here.

I sew all the jeans details (back pockets, front pockets, yoke), sew the inseams and then stop.  I then proceed with the next stage of the sewing process (side seams) with a long basting stitch and the fabric with wrong sides together:

I baste the seat seam as well (I did it right sides together in the photo below but I'd actually recommend wrong sides together so that the seam allowances are easier to see and manipulate when the garment is tried on):

The fly is left open and unfinished.  To ensure the waistband can be sewn on accurately I press under the seam allowances.  The right side, when the pants are worn, has a 1/2" seam allowance and the left side, when the pants are worn has a 5/8" seam allowance.  In the photo below, the allowance on the left will be folded under 1/2" and the allowance on the right will be folded under 5/8".

Lastly, I temporarily attach the waistband.  I carefully mark the buttonhole and button and then simply stitch together along the center back seam and then apply it to the jeans.  The button marking lines up with the folded edge of the fly and the buttonhole should be set 1/2" in from the folded edge of the fly.

Try the jeans on the wearer and pin or clip them closed so that the button and buttonhole marking overlap.  This will give you an accurate feel for how the finished waistband will fit despite having no fly extension, zipper shield or button to do up!  Pinch and pin any areas that need taking in or letting out...be careful to avoid over-fitting as the man still needs ease to sit and bend his legs!

If you have questions about fitting your jeans, please email me at info@threadtheory.ca or comment.  You can also join our Facebook community where many engaged menswear sewists are quick to offer advice the moment you post!

See you in a couple of days for our next sew-along post!  We will setting up our machines and sewing the patch pockets.

Download the Quadra Jeans or Fulford Jeans to join us in this sew-along.

Today we begin the sew-along for our Quadra and Fulford men's jeans patterns!  I'll be walking you through the following topics with the help of many diagrams and photos:

Today (Oct 12th) - Gathering Materials - how to choose fabric and notions.

Oct 19th - Choosing a Size - how to measure the man and select an appropriate pattern size.  We'll also discuss options to mock up your chosen size and how to make alterations to ensure a good fit.

Oct 21st - Set up and Patch Pockets - how to set up your machine, apply interfacing, and assemble the patch pockets.

Oct 23rd - Front Pockets - how to construct the french seamed pocket bags.

Oct 25th - Yoke, Inseams and Side Seams - how to sew these flatfell seams and the side seams.

Oct 27th - Seat seam and Fly Extension - how to prepare for fly construction by sewing the seat seam and adding on the fly extension.

Oct 29th - The Fly - I've taken loads of photos for this step and I know you can do it!!!

Oct 31st - Waistband - We'll add the waistband on and discuss additional fitting options at this point.

Nov. 2nd - Belt loops and Finishing Details - how to assemble the belt loops, hem the jeans and apply the rivets.

You'll notice that the sew-along schedule will give you a week to get your materials assembled and then we can delve into fitting and sewing.  Before we talk about materials, though, I want to give you a little bit of inspiration by showing you some of the amazing Quadra Jeans that our test sewers made!

This nicely fitted pair was sewn by Dan for himself - notice how he's paired them with a Strathcona Henley!

Tina really took her time and added thoughtful details to the pair that she sewed.  I love the idea of adding a label on top of the leather patch!

Kari sewed this pair for her partner, the dark fabric choice looks very smart paired with a button-up.

And lastly, Zak sewed this Carhartt-colored pair for himself and took lovely photos at Hadrian's Wall in the UK.  I travelled to view this wall many years ago when visiting family who live in Manchester so his photos bring back some great memories!

Are you itching to make your own pair now?  Let's begin by assembling our jeans-making materials!  Looking at the Materials Required section of the instruction booklet, you will see that you need the following:

Self Fabric

This is the main fabric you will use for the jeans.  Denim is, of course, recommended, but the jeans look great in a myriad of other fabric choices as well!  Try making a wearable mock-up in a readily available cotton twill, corduroy or canvas before investing in denim.

Denim can be tricky to source and can be fairly expensive when you purchase denim of high quality.  Fortunately, our jeans patterns can be made using a fairly wide range of denim styles including denim with no stretch or up to 2% elastane content.  Look for denims between 9-16 oz.  Ensure that your sewing machine can handle five layers of the fabric at one time using topstitching thread since this is how many layers you will be stitching when you add the belt loops to the jeans!  Some excellent online sources for denim are listed below.  Each link will take you directly to the part of the store where I found denim and other trouser weight fabrics.

Canada

Fabrications Ottawa - a great online shop which includes a stock of Cone Mills US-made S-gene denim in multiple weights!  This is high quality denim - the same denim that continuously sells out when Closet Case Patterns launches her limited supply jean making kits!

Blackbird Fabrics - an online shop just across the water from me!  Caroline often has a nice selection of denim in stock and occasionally gets in a supply of coveted Cone Mills.

Closet Case Patterns - Heather-Lou is known for her excellent women's jeans patterns.  She stocks jean-making kits including all the notions you need and high quality denim.  They often sell out fast but you might be in luck snagging a non-stretch kit in particular since these are less in demand than the stretch denims needed for her Ginger Jeans pattern.

Simplifi Fabric - An online shop completely focused on organic and ecologically friendly fabrics!  They have a great selection of denims.  The 12.5 oz Indigo Blue Hemp and Organic Cotton Denim looks spectacular!

USA

Stylemaker Fabrics - An organised selection of denim in various weights and amounts of stretch.

Britex Fabrics - They have a few very well priced Japanese selvage denims that are worth a peruse!

Fancy Tiger Crafts - A nice array of denims from various manufacturers - all well labelled so you can compare the differences.  I like the US made bull denim choices in particular.  Bull denim is dyed after weaving to produce a uniform colour (whereas regular denim features an indigo warp thread and white weft thread).

Harts Fabric - A comprehensive selection of quite affordably priced denims.  I especially like the look of the wide denim which would save a lot of fabric when cutting out men's larger sizes.

UK

Merchant & Mills - A large range of high-end denim very suitable for men's jeans - you might like to make a mock up first due to the price point of these quality fabrics!

Empress Mills - Some very affordable denims in a variety of weights.  A great way to test out a pair of jeans without a huge investment!

Croft Mill - Another selection of affordable denims and some interesting choices including prints, pre-washed, broken twill weave, extra wide etc.

Like I mentioned before, if you would like to try out one of our jeans patterns before cutting into your high-end denim, why not sew up a pair in a more affordable cotton twill or corduroy?  You'll likely find a selection of trouser weight materials at your local fabric shop but, in case you don't have a shop near you, here are some excellent online options:

Blackbird Fabrics - Currently there is a nice 8.5 oz Cotton Chino Twill in stock in various colors.  While this is half an ounce lighter than I recommend within the instruction booklet, it would make a great jean alternative for summer and it would be nice to practice topstitching on something a bit more light weight.

Stylemaker Fabrics - A US based online shop - there is no end to the options here!  You can search their "Pants" section and browse many pages of corduroy, twill, bull denims in many colors, suitings of all sorts and more.

RayStitch - A UK based online shop with a large selection of interesting fabrics.  I enjoyed perusing the Heavier Weight Wovens sections for all sorts of unique options for pants.

Pocket Lining

This is a great opportunity to use a scrap of fun quilting cotton but any strong and thin cotton or cotton blend will work nicely.  Above you can see a beautiful Jedediah Pants progress shot by Duane of MainelyMenswear.  He's chosen a kente cloth print for his Jeds.  Similar accent fabrics can be used for our jeans patterns.

Have a look at store bought jeans and you will see the pocketing is actually quite thin.  I usually prefer a quilting cotton weight so that the pocket bags are not a weak point in terms of wear.  I've also used scraps of shirting from past Fairfield Button-ups and scraps of flannel from past Eastwood PJS (shown below) with great success!

Interfacing

Choose a medium weight fusible that adheres to your denim or chosen self fabric securely.  The interfacing will be used for the Fly Extension, Zipper Shield and Waistband Pieces.  It can be black or white since thick denim will not allow the interfacing to show through to the right side!

Other Supplies

A no-sew jeans button measuring 1/2"-1".  We stock several types of jeans buttons in our shop.

Six pocket rivets - these are optional if you are using a fabric other than denim since you could also just bartack very securely at these pressure points but I don't think rivets are optional if you are sewing with denim.  They are essential to create the classic strength and appearance of jeans.  We have several types of rivets in our shop as well.

Thread - you will need regular polyester thread (which is stronger than cotton) to match the colour of your denim and thicker topstitching thread in a pleasing contrasting colour.  Some of our test sewers successfully sewed their entire jeans using Gutermann Extra Strong Thread which is not quite as thick as topstitching thread.  This allowed them to skip the hassle of re-threading their machine each time they needed to topstitch.  My machine is never very happy when sewing with thick thread (it binds up when I backstitch) so I prefer to switch back and forth to ensure that my seams are strong and backstitched securely before I topstitch them.  We will be discussing all sorts of tips and tricks for tidy topstitching later on in the sew-along!

An optional 3 X 2 1/2" decorative label - Most store bought jeans feature a leather-like label on the back waistband.  I love adding my own blank label as a way to draw attention to the fact that my jeans are not branded!  You can stitch a real leather label to your jeans or you can add a washable paper one.  We carry these in our shop for $2 CAD.  They are comprised of the same material that brands like Levis or Wrangler uses for their labels - this washable paper stands up to machine washing and drying at any temperature.

A metal toothed zipper - if you can not find the size recommended in the instruction booklet, a longer zipper will do just fine!  I will be showing you how to shorten the zipper during the sew-along.  We carry 7" and 8" jeans zippers in our shop.  Oh, and don't be concerned about the width of the zipper tape!  The pattern pieces are marked so that you will be able to place your zipper correctly regardless of the width of your zipper.

Before we continue with the sew-along, make sure to pre-wash your denim.  I recommend washing it with a cup of vinegar on fairly high heat to set the indigo dye and pre-shrink/pre-soften the denim...unless, of course, you are a denim enthusiast who wants to sew up a pair of raw denim jeans!  In that case, you'll want to keep them stiff and saturated with dye by avoiding washing at all!  You can read about that whole philosophy here (be prepared to be lost down a bit of a rabbit hole!).

With the launch of two jeans patterns simultaneously, we've left you with a tough decision to make...which jeans pattern is best for you, the Quadra Jeans or the Fulford Jeans? (The Fulford Jeans are pictured above and the Quadra Jeans are pictured below)

Today I'm going to help you analyse these two styles so you can come up with a confident choice.  First we'll look at the language I use to compare them, next we'll compare them to a well known store bought jean, and lastly we will inspect the actual pattern pieces to see the differences in proportions.

Description of Fit

I describe the fit of the Quadra and Fulford jeans patterns using one paragraph on each product listing.  I've copied the paragraphs below and have made the key phrases bold:

The Quadra Jeans sewing pattern provides a subtly modern take on the classic straight leg jean.  This pair of jeans features a slight taper to the leg and extra room in the thigh to allow for lots of movement.  They sit below the waist as a moderate low rise.  Sew these jeans in denim with no stretch or up to 2% elastane to add just that little bit of additional flexibility that so perfectly suits an active lifestyle.

The Fulford Jeans sewing pattern is a truly classic straight leg jean.  This pair of jeans features a regular fit in the thigh and straight legs.  They feature a conservatively high rise reminiscent of vintage work jeans that sits just below the waist.  Sew these jeans in a rugged denim and expect to wear this hard wearing pair for years to come.

As you can see, there are differences in the lower leg, the thigh, the rise and the intended style.  Let's take a closer look at these differences:

Leg: The Quadra jeans (pictured above left) taper from the knee to the hem for an overall look that is slim.  The Fulford jeans (pictured above right) are straight from the knee down for an overall bulkier look.  The size 34 Quadras feature a 15 3/4" hem width while the Fulfords feature a 16 3/4" hem width.

Thigh: To make up for the slim fit elsewhere, the Quadra Jeans (pictured left) provide more room in the thigh to allow for comfort when sitting.  This means the difference between the thigh and calves is proportionately larger than the Fulford jeans (pictured right) which emphasises the tapered look of the Quadras.  The Fulford jeans are only slightly curved at the hip and quite straight through the thigh which emphasises the straight silhouette through the legs.  The size 34 Quadras feature a 24 7/8" thigh while the Fulfords feature a 24 1/4" thigh.

Rise:  The Quadra jeans (pictured left) are what is often referred to as "mid-rise" or "moderate-low rise" meaning they sit well below the natural waist.  The Fulford Jeans (pictured right) are a higher rise and sit just below the natural waist.  This means that the fly is visually longer on the Fulford Jeans.  The size 34 Quadras feature a 9" rise while the Fulfords feature a 10" rise.

Style: While both jeans could be sewn in non-stretch denim or denim with up to 2% elastane, the tapered leg of the Quadras (pictured left) really pairs well with the added flexibility of stretch denim.  Stretch allows the wearer to feel completely unrestricted when bending his legs during physical activity (even though the fit at the knees and calves is fairly slim).  The Fulfords (pictured right) would be lovely and comfortable with a bit of stretch but the wearer would not notice it in the same way because the knees and calves are already allowed so much room.  Thick denim would not feel restricting when used for the Fulfords (though make sure your machine can handle the thickness before choosing anything too rugged!).

Fit Compared to Levis

Since Levis are such a well known brand, I examined their various styles when designing our jeans patterns.  I wanted to make styles that were comparable to their popular fits so that men could try on their store bought jeans before deciding which pattern suited them best.  The Quadra Jeans are similar in fit to Levis 502 (pictured left) while the Fulford Jeans are similar to Levis 501 (pictured right).

Pattern Piece Proportions

By placing the size 34 Quadra and Fulford pattern pieces on top of each other you can get a visual understanding of their differences and similarities.  In the following diagrams the Quadra Jeans are orange and the Fulford Jeans are white.

Front

The diagrams above show the difference in hem and knee width.  You can also see the inch taller rise on the Fulford Jeans.  While the Quadra Jeans appear narrower at the side seam, the inner thigh curve is less exaggerated providing slightly more room in the thighs than the Fulford Jeans (when paired with the back pattern piece).

Back

Here you can see similar differences to the front pattern pieces: The Quadras are narrower at the hem and knee.  They also feature a more exaggerated curve at the inner thigh.  Their hips curve inwards to create a closer fit where the yoke seam will be when the back and yoke are sewn together.

Yoke

The Quadra Yoke is considerably narrower than the Fulford and tapers dramatically towards the waist.  This allows for more shaping to create a slim fitting waist paired with roomy thighs.  The Fulford Yoke is angled less and is wider.  The overall effect of this yoke is to create a straight fit through the hips.

Front Pockets

The different pocket shapes don't effect fit but are simply shaped differently to suit the aesthetic of each jean.  The Fulford pockets are angular while the Quadra pockets are curved.  The coin pocket is the same size for both pairs.

Back Pockets

The back pocket pieces are identical for both the Fulford and Quadra Jeans and for all sizes.  We found that increasing the pocket proportionately with the size did not result in a flattering look.  The pattern includes five topstitching templates or you can leave the pockets free from decorative stitching as is often the case for men's jeans.

Fly Pieces

The Fulford fly pieces are longer than the Quadra fly pieces to suit the higher rise of the jeans.  You will also notice that the Fulford zipper shield is narrower which is a style difference that results in less heft and bulk at centre front when you sew this pair of jeans in a heavy denim as workwear.  Since the Quadra Jeans are not as likely to be sewn in very heavy denim, their wide shield will not feel too bulky and will, of course, more thoroughly protect the wearer from the zipper.

To wind things up on a more personal note, you might be interested to know which fit my friends and family members prefer:

Quadras: Matt, Mike (Matt's brother), our friend Scott.  All of these men are fairly young and are used to wearing a lower rise and closer fit when it comes to pants.  They also like the Jedediah Pants over our Jutland Pants.

Fulfords: My dad (who prefers roomy legs and the fit of our Jutland Pants over our Jedediah Pants) and Matt's dad (he loves Levi 501s which I believe he is wearing in the photo above).

Now that we've analysed things thoroughly, I hope you are able to choose between our two new patterns easily!  Regardless of the pattern you choose, you will be treated to an incredibly thorough set of instructions and will be able to make jeans featuring every detail you would find in a good quality store bought equivalent!

Ready to choose?  Download the Quadra Jeans or download the Fulford Jeans.

And don't forget, we always feature this offer on our PDF only patterns:  When the patterns are available in tissue format, everyone who purchased the PDF will be given the opportunity to buy the tissue version minus the cost of the PDF.  That way you don't have to pay for both formats but you also don't have to wait until the jeans are printed to get sewing!

This is the day I look forward to every time I create a sew-along: The parade of your finished garments!

Aiden’s version of the Sayward Raglan really excited me when it popped up in my Instagram feed…you wouldn’t know it from looking at the finished garment but it has actually been constructed using old upcycled t-shirts gifted to him by one of his brothers!  You could do the same easily (and very affordably!) – just grab two old t-shirts from your closet or the thrift store and cut around any holes or tired screen prints when you place your pieces.  Choose t-shirts larger than your preferred size to ensure you have lots of fabric to work with.  Depending on how you place your pieces, you may even be able to avoid stitching the main hem!

Rachel was one of our test sewers – she stitched up a long sleeve variation of the Sayward for her husband.  The body is French Terry and the sleeves and neck band are jersey.  She was stash busting when she chose her fabrics which caused her to use two different fabric weights.  I was pleased to see that this worked out very nicely!

Amy sewed this yellow jersey Sayward (which she blogged here) while pattern testing and her husband obligingly modelled.  As you can see, when the Sayward is sewn in a solid color, the raglan seamlines are not necessarily very noticeable and it presents as a very classic looking t-shirt – great for layering!

Another of our testers, Tracy, sewed tees for both her husband and her son in a drapey polyester blend knit and a 100% cotton knit respectively.  I found this comparison of fabric types was very useful to help fine tune my description of recommended fabrics in the instruction booklet.  She was not satisfied with how the neckline drags and drapes on her husband’s shirt but liked how it worked for her son – I think this is all down to the drape of the fabric…men’s tees fit best when the fabric does not drape heavily against the body.  Regardless, I think both tees look excellent and very wearable!  Thanks for your feedback and for emailing this photo, Tracy!

Amber tested our pattern from the perspective of a novice sewist (and very talented knitter! You can view here work here.) and I was thrilled to have her feedback on stitching the neckline.  She found the neckline stretched out when she applied the binding and gave excellent feedback about how I might elaborate within the instructions to avoid this confusion for a novice…so you can thank Amber for the clarity of the instructions on the final pattern!  I believe she had plans to remove her stretched neckline and reattach it using her new sewing skills.  Don’t worry if your neckline doesn’t turn out the way you like on your first try – it is fixable and you will find every attempt at stretching your binding without stretching the body of the shirt will become easier and more successful!  You may also find that a small amount of undesired stretching settles itself after the first trip through the wash.

Last but not least, Cassie sewed this bold floral raglan for her husband and emailed us this photo – his measurements were several inches smaller than our smallest size so the resulting fit is looser than our intended fit – so this is an excellent example of how forgiving knit garments can be, especially with raglan sleeves!  Even though the shirt is technically ‘too large’ for her husband, the fact that there are no shoulder seams or armscye extending too far down the shoulder results in a shirt that looks as though it fits intentionally loose.  Her husband suits a larger neckline too (it looks modern and trendy)!  I think raglans would be a great option to sew as a surprise gift (one which you can’t measure the recipient beforehand) because the raglan seams result in a garment that will appear to fit a broad size range.

Thank you to everyone who tested our Sayward Raglan and to those of you who have shared your finished projects!  I look forward to seeing many more Saywards as we near Father’s Day.  #saywardraglan

This afternoon we are sewing our Sayward Raglan.  This post will walk you through each step with photos showing construction using a serger and construction using a variety of stretch stitches on a regular sewing machine.  Let’s dig in!

Your raglan should now be cut out from fabric – I like to clip my notches outwards when sewing with knits to avoid creating runs in the fabric (think of the runs that develop when pantyhose are snagged – similar runs can develop in knits).

Begin the sewing process by laying out your shirt front on your work surface with the right side up.  Place on of the sleeve pieces on top with right side down.  You will know you have your sleeve aligned correctly if the raglan seam with the single notch lines up with the single notch on the shirt front (note that double notches usually signify the back side of a garment).

Pin the sleeve seam thoroughly so the notch lines up.

Stitch the seam using a 1.5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.  If you are using a serger, this means you will need to trim off the extra fabric with the serger blade.

If you do not have a serger and are instead using a stretch stitch on your regular sewing machine, here are how some examples of stitches you might use:

A simple zig zag stitch works great.  Play around with the stitch length and the stitch width by sewing together two small scraps of fabric to create a practice seam.  You want to find the sweet spot where the stitching is not very visible from the right side of the garment when the seam is pulled open and it also is nice and stretchy.  If your zig zag is too wide, you will see puckers that almost look like holes on the right side of the garment.  If your zig zag is too long, it will behave more like a straight stitch and not have very much stretch.

If your machine is able to do a triple stretch stitch, this is a great option of loose fitting knit garments stitched from sturdy and strong knits.  The machine simply goes back and forth over the same straight stitch three times.  This makes the stitch very strong so your seam will not snap.  This isn’t a good option for delicate knits though since the seam will be stronger than the fabric itself!  This means that, when stretched, the fabric is at risk of tearing while the seam stays perfectly intact.  When I use a triple stretch stitch I like to finish the seam allowance with a zig zag stitch as you can see above.  I then trim the excess seam allowance to make things look tidy and to reduce bulk.  You can choose to finish the seam allowances together (like a serger would) and press them towards the back, or you can create a separate line of zig zag stitching on each seam allowance and press them open (this takes longer but creates less bulk at seam junctions).

Some regular sewing machines feature awesome stretch stitches such as the one above (they vary in appearance from machine to machine).  This one features a straight stitch broken up with a wide and short zig zag.  If you trim the seam allowance before stitching, the zig zag will actually enclose the raw edge of the fabric to create a finish similar to a serger.  I still like to trim afterwards though since knits don’t really fray much.

Once your raglan seam is sewn, press the seam allowance towards the sleeve (or open, depending on your preference).  Repeat this process with the second sleeve:

Below you can see my serged seam allowances on the wrong side of the t-shirt – they are pressed towards the sleeves.

Now we are ready to add the shirt back!  Leave your shirt laying right side up on your work surface with the sleeves spread out.  Place the shirt back with right side down and line up one of the raglan seams.  This time you will be matching the double notch.  Pin thoroughly.

Pull the back over to the other sleeve and line up this raglan seam as well (again matching the double notches).  Pin.

We are ready to sew the back raglan seams!  Use the same stitch style as you did for the front seams and again, press the seam allowances towards the sleeves (or open).

It is beginning to look like a shirt already!

Now it is time to add the neck band.  Fold your neck band piece with right sides together and align the two short ends.  Pin.

If you like, you can baste the neck band closed at this point and continue following the directions below, all the while using a long basting stitch until your neckband has been sewn to your t-shirt.  This is a great way to test the neckband to see if your fabric drapes heavily and drags the neckband until it is too large – this is a common problem with jersey blends but it is any easy one to fix if you do a test fit with large basting stitches.  You can simply remove your basting until you are back to this step in the instructions.  Sew the neck short ends using a larger seam allowance to create a smaller neckband.  When the smaller neckband is stretched to fit on to the neckline, the tension created by the stretching will help the neckline to keep its shape.

The neckband is perfectly drafted to suit stable knits like interlock though, so I’ve proceeded directly to serging here!

Press the seam open or to one side (depending on the stitch style you used).  You now have a loop:

Fold your loop in half so the raw edges meet and wrong sides are together.  Press.

It is now time to apply the binding to the t-shirt neckline!  You can choose where you would like to position your binding seam – in the photos below you will see I’ve placed it at centre back.  If you prefer, you could position it so it lines up with one of the back raglan seams.  This is just a matter of style preference and does not effect the shape or fit of the neck band.

Divide your neck band in half.  Line up one half (in my case, the neck band seam) with centre back.  Line up the other half (which I’m pinching in the photo below) with centre front.  Pin at these points.

Now divide the neck band in quarters.  Align each quarter (where I’m pinching in the photo below) half way between the raglan seams.

You will notice that the binding is smaller than the shirt neckline.  You’ll also notice that the front binding will need to be stretched more than the back binding to fit the shape of the neckline.  Both of these observations are excellent!  The small circumference of the binding will stop the neckline from gaping.  The extra tension on the shirt front will ensure a shapely neckline where it is most likely to sag.

Stitch around the neckline loop using a 1.5 cm (5/8″) seam allowance.  If you would like a slightly tighter crew neck than our pattern is designed to include, an easy solution would be to sew the binding with a smaller seam allowance (1 cm or 3/8″ for example).  This will result in a wider neck binding and a tighter neckline.

You can see in the photo above that I began and ended my stitching at center back.  This is a great idea if you plan to cover this part of the seam with a garment tag – your untidy backstitching or serger overlap will be nicely hidden!  If you will not add a tag, it is a good idea to start your stitching at one of the raglan seams so it is not so obviously visible.

Press the seam allowance towards the shirt body and sleeves.

If you want to prevent the seam allowances from flapping around and also, if you would like to add more structure and stability to your neckline, you can finish off your neckline by circling it with a stretch stitch.  This stitching catches the seam allowance so that it is permanently pressed in the correct direction.  You can also trim off any excess seam allowance to create a tidier finish.

If you would like to stitch on a garment tag, place it at centre back and topstitch it down across the top and bottom.  You could even stitch around the entire rectangle.  Remember to keep your stitching as neat as possible because the shape that you stitch will be visible on the back of the garment.

Now that the neckline is complete, we can do a final fit and head on to the side seams.  It is very easy to fine tune the fit of the Sayward Raglan.  Try the unfinished shirt on the recipient with the shirt inside out.

Pin up the side seams and sleeve seam trying to keep your pins along the seam line as accurately as possible.  If you are frustrated by the pinning or worried you will poke the wearer, you could also baste the seams together with a long stitch length before he tries it on.

At this point, you will be able to see if you need to take in the sleeves a little (i.e. sew them with a larger seam allowance) or perhaps taper to a smaller seam allowance at the waist and hips to give him a bit more room in the body.

If you are able, take the garment off the wearer with the pins still in so that you know exactly where you need to sew (now that your seam allowances are no longer consistent!).

Sew the entire sleeve and side seam in one go.  Make sure that the underarm seam is aligned as perfectly as you can.  Also ensure that the raglan seams remained pressed the way that you intend.

Press the seam open or towards the back depending on the stitch style that you chose.

And now we hem!  My favourite way to hem hefty knits such as this terry is to serge the edge and then press the fabric under at the hem notch.  The instruction booklet shows you some other options to choose from too (particularly suited to lighter weight knits).  If you would like to follow along with this photographed method but do not have a serger, don’t worry!  You could simply zig zag the raw fabric edge.

Once the raw edge is finished, fold the fabric edge up once at the hem notch.  Pin thoroughly.

The same process applies to the sleeve hems:

Stitch around the hem using a zig zag stitch.  In the photo below, I am stitching from the wrong side of the garment.  I also like stitching from the right side of the garment.

The advantage of stitching on the wrong side of the garment is that you will have likely placed your pins on this side (so they are easier to take out as you sew) and that it will be more obvious if you are wavering off the edge of your hem or if your hem is puckering as you sew.

The advantage of stitching on the right side of the garment is that you can see how your finished results appear.  You might also find that your fabric moves along more smoothly with both layers being moved along at an equal pace…at least this is what I find with my machine!

Test out both options on a scrap piece of fabric to see which side you prefer to sew from.  It is essential that you do not stretch either layer of fabric while sewing since this stretching will result in a twisted hem or hem that ripples.  Don’t worry, a tiny bit of stretching will likely snap back into shape after the first wash!

And here is what your finished hem will look like!  While you would never see a zig zag stitch on a manufactured garment, I think it looks professional and does not seem at all noticeable or distinguishable from a coverstitch hem when worn.

And that’s it!  A couple hours of sewing and your Sayward Raglan is complete!  If you have already whipped one up and would like your photo shared on Friday’s blog post, please email it to me at info@threadtheory.ca or use #saywardraglan on social media.  I can’t wait to see your t-shirts!

So we are about to start on our Sayward Raglan sewing project but first we need to choose our size and make any fit and style adjustments we might need!

Choosing your size:

Within the instruction booklet I included a detailed explanation and diagram showing you how best to choose your size.  Let me walk you through it!  (Open image in a new tab to see it full size…and feel free to skip down to our fun pattern hacks if you are comfortable choosing your size without assistance!)

Under How to Choose Your Size you will see an explanation on how to collect body and garment measurements.  While body measurements are most essential, we always include garment measurements for our patterns as well, this way you can compare them to existing garments to see if the Sayward will end up with the fit and style that you or your recipient are used to wearing.  Let’s illustrate this point with scenarios:

Scenario 1:

For instance, you may be excited to sew a raglan and find that the body measurements perfectly match the size L but, when you measure a favourite t-shirt, the garment measurements match our size XL…well, this is an excellent indicator that the man you are sewing for might prefer a looser fit than the Sayward is designed to produce!  In that scenario, simply make the executive decision to sew XL and produce a Sayward that fits differently than we designed, or, sew the L and push the boundaries of your prospective wearer (if he is interested in trying a new fit).

Scenario 2:

When collecting Body Measurements you might find that the chest, waist and shoulder width, hips and height of your recipient do not match a single size on the chart.  For instance, his chest measurement may suit our size M, his waist may be size M, his shoulders size S and his hips size L…and then his height might match 4XL…it’s certainly possible to have these results!  In a scenario like this, the chest measurement is the most important since this is where the raglan is most fitted and where it is the most difficult to adjust.

Choose our size M pattern but then manipulate it to ensure it matches the recipient’s shoulders, hips and height.  This isn’t as tricky as it might sound!  Here is how I suggest you approach this particular scenario:

Accounting for size S shoulders: You can simply sew with slightly larger seam allowances when attaching the sleeves to take in a bit of extra fabric at the shoulders (use a larger seam allowance for the sleeve but not for the body since you don’t want the body to be any smaller at the chest).  Always make smaller changes than you think you need since you can remove more fabric but you can’t easily add fabric back in once seam allowances are trimmed!

Accounting for size L hips: Before cutting out your fabric, grade to a larger size at the hips to suit your wearer.  Here is a tutorial I made for the Jedediah Pants to show you how to grade between sizes.  Alternatively, you can just taper to a smaller seam allowance as you sew down the side seam towards the hem.

Accounting for size 4XL height:  This is a big change that you will need to do before cutting out your fabric since you will be adding lots of length to the pattern pieces.  Slice along the lengthen and shorten here lines and follow our tutorial on lengthening a pattern.  You might like to double check a t-shirt that your wearer likes to see exactly how much length to add to the Sayward (measure the Centre Back Length as I describe in the instruction booklet).  Perhaps he likes a t-shirt longer or shorter than the Sayward is designed to fit…so don’t just rely on his height!  Refer to the Garment Measurement chart too!

So now we’ve covered how to use our measurement charts and adjust the Sayward Raglan for fit, please stay tuned for tomorrow’s special guest post.  It will be about grading to a larger (or smaller) size than our pattern offers – perfect for men who fall just outside of our available size range but would still love a Sayward Raglan!

Fun Pattern Hacks:

Okay, let’s move on to adjusting the Sayward Raglan to suit style preferences.  This is the fun part!  I’ll be covering how to create 3/4 length sleeves and how to add a Henley placket.

Add 3/4 Length Sleeves to the Sayward Raglan

This is an easy adjustment to create a very classic look.  Before cutting out your fabric, bring out your Sleeve pattern piece (the long sleeve version).

Measure your recipient’s arm to find out exactly where he would like his 3/4 length sleeve to end.  Measure along the seam from underarm to the desired finished length. Ensure that his elbow is ever so slightly bent as it would be when he is standing relaxed.

Remember that the Sleeve pattern piece includes 1.5 cm (5/8″) seam allowances.  Whenever you manipulate pattern pieces, it is most accurate to mark in your actual seamlines – do this now along all edges by measuring in 1.5 cm (5/8″) at various points and then connecting the dots.

Measure from the underarm seamline down the arm to your desired length.  Draw a horizontal line at this point – this is your new finished hem length.

Now it is time to add the hem allowance.  You will notice on the original pattern piece that the hem allowances features an angle.  This angle adds width to the bottom of the hem so when you fold up the hem it will match the taper of the sleeve.  We need to replicate this at our new hemline.

Hold up your sleeve pattern piece to a window (tape it there so it does not shift).  Place another piece of paper over the 3/4 length horizontal line.  Measure up from the line 2.5 cm (1″).  Trace the angled line.

Flip your piece of paper over and slip it under the Sleeve pattern piece.  Use the light from the window to trace the angled hem onto the original pattern.  Add the seam allowance back on to each side of the hem allowance (the outer red lines in the diagram above).

Cut off the extra sleeve length that you no longer need.

Now you can cut out your 3/4 length sleeve and sew it up exactly as per the instructions!

Add a Henley Placket to the Sayward Raglan

First of all, you will need to download a placket pattern piece – Free Placket Sewing Pattern!  It creates the same style of placket that you see on our Strathcona Henley.  Print it full size with no scaling and check it is the correct size by measuring the 3″ test square.

Now, using the Sayward Front pattern piece, draw a vertical line at center front of the neckline measuring 13.7 cm long (5 7/16″).  This is where you will position your placket.

Head to our tutorial on sewing a Henley placket.

Once your placket is complete, attach the Neck Band as follows (this is an excerpt from our Strathcona Henley instruction booklet.  Be sure to open the image in a new tab to view it full size):

And there you have it!  Our classic Sayward Raglan turned in to a versatile Henley like this perfect example from The Gap!

You are now ready to cut out your fabric.  I have a VERY detailed post on cutting out a t-shirt – while I used the Strathcona Henley pattern for this tutorial, everything I mention applies perfectly to our Sayward Raglan.

Stay tuned for our guest post on grading tomorrow and I will be back for the final sew-along post on Wednesday when we will be sewing the Sayward!

What do these three photos have in common?  You’ll soon find out!

Welcome to the first day of our Sayward Raglan Sew-along!  This will be a short and sweet sew-along that will have you finished your raglan by next Wednesday…it’s that easy and quick to sew this style of tee!

Day 1: Today we will have a look at some ready-to-wear inspiration and talk about fabric choices.

Day 2: We’ll go over fit and style modifications and then cut out our fabric.

Day 3: We’ll sew it all together!

Next Friday: We’ll share some of our pattern tester’s Saywards and maybe a few of your finished projects too.

Let’s get started!

The raglan sleeve style is said to have been developed by Lord Raglan and his tailor after his arm was amputated as a result of an injury sustained during the Battle of Waterloo in 1815.  This sleeve style allowed for easier dressing as an amputee and also resulted in a greater range of movement for sword use (and, later on in history, for all manner of sports, most notably American baseball!).

Now we’ve had a small glimpse at how the raglan developed historically, let’s look at how it is worn today.  Raglan sleeves are now commonly seen on knit sportswear but are also used on casual daily wear for both men and women.  All of the RTW images below come from our Sawyard Raglan Pinterest board.

I can imagine the Sayward sewn in a thick and cozy terry or interlock:

A versatile cotton jersey:

Or in high-tech blends to create performance sportswear:

Color-blocking can be approached in a number of ways.  Within the instruction booklet I provide information on how to color block to create this style (sleeves and neck band are the same color while the body is a contrast color):

But you could also get creative by colorblocking differently:

While there are many suitable fabric choices for the Sayward Raglan, here are my top 3 picks with my reasoning:

Fabrics: 1. Organic Cotton Interlock from Organic Cotton Plus 2. Elk Grove Organic Cotton Interlock from Organic Cotton Plus 3. Josi Severson Organic Cotton Interlock from Organic Cotton Plus

Cotton or Cotton/Poly Interlock:

This fabric is of medium body which makes it easy to sew – it does not curl as much as jersey at the edges and it is more stable than most knits (it sews somewhat like a non-stretch woven material).  It is also wonderful to wear because it is thicker than the jersey used for most t-shirt manufacturing these days.  It will wear well for many years to come and will feel soft and luxurious against the skin.

Fabrics: 1. Organic Cotton Spandex Striped Jersey from Simplifi 2. Nordic Night Organic Cotton Elastane Jersey from Simplifi 3. Whale Pod Organic Cotton Elastane Jersey from Simplifi

Jersey (with no spandex or less than 6%):

Jersey is thin and will result in a very professional feeling t-shirt because it is what most men are used to wearing.  If you pick a cotton jersey, you may be able to find one that is quite crisp and stable (especially if no spandex or other substrates have been added).  Watch out for slinky jerseys that drape against the body when worn – these will result in a sagging neckline and a form hugging t-shirt with a distinctly feminine appearance.  I find most rayon blends have too much drape for a men’s t-shirt and bamboo blends should be felt in person before committing to them since they can also drape quite heavily.  A great benefit of choosing jersey is that it is widely available in fun prints!

Fabrics: 1. Bamboo Cotton French Terry from Blackbird Fabrics 2. Organic Cotton Terry from Simplifi 3. Light Weight Organic Cotton French Terry from Organic Cotton Plus

French Terry:

A great choice for those new to knits since it doesn’t curl or shift while sewing.  Watch out for terry fabrics with loose loops on the wrong side because those can be messy (the loops fray off at the cut edges and make a lot of dust in the sewing room) to sew with and can catch on watches or nails when the shirt is being taken on or off.  A French Terry will produce a warmer Sayward that can be worn as a t-shirt or layered atop another t-shirt as a light sweater.

Have a question about colorblocking, styling or fabric choice?  I’d love to help!  Just comment below or email me at info@threadtheory.ca.

Now it’s time to purchase, wash and dry your fabric so you are ready to cut out your Sayward on Monday!  Have a nice weekend!

Okay guys, I have a surplus of Lazo Trousers to show you.  This will likely be the last Lazo post for a while since it is the end of our Lazo Hack contest today!  Don’t worry, the regular programming of menswear related sewing patterns and tools will be resuming shortly!

This week has been a great week for the Lazos – both in my wardrobe and throughout the online sewing community!  Matt and I finally got around to a modelled photo shoot for the activewear pair that I made approximately two years ago (can you tell how much I like modelling…thank goodness our pup Luki helped me out!).

This pair is made in a complete mystery material that I suspect is mostly nylon.  It was from the ‘activewear’ section of my local fabric shop and I picked it with the intention of making hiking capris.  I liked that it had a bit of body while still being very light weight.  Plus it is quick dry and a rugged twill weave.

These Lazos are sewn in size 4 as is.  I had fun adding lots of topstitching to this pair similar to how I would approach sewing our Jedediah Pants or a pair of jeans.  I think this subtly changes the overall feel of the design from elegant to casual and rugged.

I added three heavy duty anorak snaps as a waistband closure and lined the pockets with a twill weave acetate lining (again, to be light and quick drying).

I look forward to some warmer weather so I can wear these hiking and boating again!  They were NOT the right choice for a frigid afternoon near the end of January!

A few of you requested that I model the elastic waist Lazo Joggers from last week’s tutorial so Matt and I photographed those the same day.  I added them to last week’s blog post, but in case you missed this update, here are a couple of photos of me in my pjs for you to see!

As you can most certainly tell from these images, this pair is much cosier and better suited to January weather.  I really love them!

It wasn’t only me who modelled Lazos this week – I am so thrilled with the flat elastic waist Lazos that Meg created.

To my eye they retain the elegant simplicity of the original design while adding loads of comfort and convenience.  Being an enthusiastic wearer of elastic waist pants myself, I think this hack is perfection.  Plus, she went to the effort of making a tutorial to show us what she did!  Thank you so much Meg!  My next pair of Lazo Trousers will definitely include a flat elastic waist.

Lastly, I have a beautiful un-hacked pair of tencel Lazos to share with you that even feature the pointed belt loops of the original design:

The olive tencel, crisp white blouse and tropical greenery are a match made in heaven!  I’m glad you love your Lazos and had a great holiday Kellene!

Let’s close off this Lazo overload by drawing the final winner of the Lazo Hack contest.  Thank you to all who entered your creative brainstorming, your WIP shots and your finished trousers.  The winner of the a Thread Theory sewing caddy filled with $100 of goodies is Orianne!  Orianne entered by email with these beautiful sketches:

I will be emailing you, Orianne, so that you can select the items you would like me to pack in your box!

If you want to continue the conversation about Lazo hacks or perhaps pose a question to the Thread Theory sewing community, you will likely be interested to know that we now have a Thread Theory Sewing Community Facebook group!  The intention of this group is to allow sewists who are considering, working on, or finished sewing with Thread Theory patterns to share their questions, their opinions and their projects.  I hope it will be useful for you!  It will not really be curated by me so it is up to you how you would like to use this platform.

Matt created it earlier this week but I must confess that I avoid Facebook as much as possible…so if you love Facebook groups and prefer ours to be structured in a more user friendly manner, just let me know and I will be happy to learn something about this!

Have a great weekend, everyone.

As promised, here is my contribution to the ongoing Lazo Hack contest.  I’ve made a few simple adjustments to the Lazo Trousers pattern to produce elastic waist joggers with a satin ribbon drawstring!

While working on these joggers last night I snapped a few pictures to create a tutorial for you.  I’ll show you how to adjust the front waistband so that it is one piece, switch the fly from functioning to a mock fly, and add elastic and buttonholes for a drawstring.  You can hem the trousers as per normal or you can add some narrow cuffs at the ankle as I did.

(Velvet jogger inspiration from Anthropologie.  I love the tassel drawstring!)

Transforming the Lazos into joggers is a VERY simple hack that could work for both woven and knit fabrics.  Any woven fabric that you might choose for a regular pair of Lazos will work for these joggers (chambray tencel or velvet would be awesome!).  If you want some jogger inspiration, here is a good series of styled images.  I’m probably a bit late to the jogger trend (I think it began in 2014) but I’ve never really adhered to trends anyways, I just choose my clothing based on my current lifestyle and mood.

Ok, let’s convert the Lazos to joggers:

Begin by selecting and altering your pattern pieces.  The only pattern piece you do not need to use is the Zipper Shield.

The only pattern piece you need to change is the Waistband Front – simply fold under the extension at the notches and cut the waistband on the fold (just like you cut the back waistband).  There is no need to cut interfacing pieces for the waistband or fly.

Assemble the trousers as per the instructions all the way up to the Fly Front section.  If you are working with a knit, you might like to use a stretch stitch or a serger so that your seams are not at risk of snapping when the fabric stretches.

To create the mock fly finish the seat seam as instructed.  Next, sew the inseam, but instead of stopping just below the zipper placement notch, ignore the curved fly facing and stitch in a straight line all the way up to the fly facing notch (which is the centre front of the pants).  If you prefer to leave off the fly altogether (perhaps you would like to insert a side seam invisible zipper instead), you can trim off the fly facings.  To sew the mock fly, press the facings towards the right side of the trousers (if you were wearing them).

On the right side of the trousers, topstitch as you would normally to give the illusion of a functioning fly.

Now we are ready to assemble the waistband!  If you would like to add a drawstring later, now is the time to add buttonholes to your waistband front.  Apply a small square of interfacing to the centre of the waistband on the wrong side of the fabric.  This will help to stabilise the fabric when you sew your buttonholes and it will make your buttonholes less likely to become misshapen with use.

To position your buttonholes, fold the waistband front in half and measure in from the fold 1/2″.  Place a pin through both layers of fabric and then mark the pin’s position with chalk (preferably on the wrong side of the fabric so that you don’t have to wash out your chalk as I did!  Sorry for the wet waistband later on in the post…I was on a roll while I was sewing and didn’t want to stop to wait for the fabric to dry!).

I chose to add 1/2″ buttonholes but you can add whatever size you prefer based on the drawstring that you choose.

Now place the waistband front and back with right sides together and sew the side seams.  Repeat this step for the waistband facings (the second set of waistband pieces).

You now have two waistband loops.  Place these with right sides together and sew along the entire top edge.  By the way, at this point it would be easy to make your waistband shorter by simply chopping off the top of the waistband before you sew the two loops together.  You could choose to match the width of elastic you plan to use for instance.  I left my waistband the full height because I wanted them to be high rise trousers.  Centring the 2″ elastic within the waistband resulted in a bit of a paper-bag silhouette.  If your waistband does not extend above the elastic your trousers will not have a ruffled top edge as mine do.

You might like to understitch along the top of the waistband to prevent the facing from rolling outwards.

Attach the waistband to the trousers while keeping the waistband facing free.  Place the waistband and trousers with right sides together.  Make sure to centre your buttonholes over the seat seam and align your side seams.

Press the seam allowances towards the waistband and then press the waistband facing downwards to enclose all of the raw edges.  You can either finish the waistband facing edge at this point or you can press under the seam allowance for a very tidy look.  I left my serged edge visible because my fabric is pretty bulky so I didn’t want to add another layer of fabric.

Pin the waistband facing in place carefully.  I would highly recommend basting it in place so that you don’t have to worry about it shifting during the next step!

From the right side of the trousers, start 1″ away from one of the side seams and stitch in the ditch all the way around the waistband.  Finish your stitching 1″ away from the same side seam so that you are left with a 2″ opening at the bottom of the waistband facing.  You will use this opening to insert the elastic.

Circle elastic around your waist to find the perfect fit.  I circled mine at my natural waist but if you have shortened your waistband to fit your elastic width, circle your elastic a couple of inches below your natural waist since the trousers will now sit lower.  Remember to include some extra elastic so that you can overlap the ends later to create a loop!

Thread the elastic into the opening using a safety pin.  Once both ends are pulled out of the opening check that the elastic is not twisted within the waistband and then overlap the ends and stitch them together.

Close the elastic within the waistband by stitching in the ditch over the 2″ hole.

Try on your Lazos to check the length of the hem (and to admire how they look!).  Hem them in the style that you choose (a regular hem, a wide cuff or a narrow ribbed cuff like mine).

Now you have several options to prevent your elastic from shifting around in the waistband.  The simplest option is to distribute the fabric nicely around the elastic (while you are wearing the trousers) and then place a pin through the side seams and elastic.  Stitch in the ditch of the side seam to secure the elastic in place.

To create the paper bag waist and more thoroughly secure your elastic in place, you can toptstitch along both the top and bottom of the elastic around the entire waistband.

Now all you need to do is thread a drawstring through the buttonholes using the same safety pin technique is before and your joggers are complete!

I hope you like my fresh interpretation of the Lazos Trousers!  Have you tried hacking them yet or do you prefer to sew them as is?

Edit Jan 25th: Some of you asked me to model these Lazos for you – here I am in my jammies ;-) They look pretty cozy eh?

To finish off Friday in a happy sort of way, let’s do the third Lazo Hack contest draw!  Today’s winner is Meg (@madebymegblog)!  Check out the awesome way she styled her Lazos.

The rolled hems and boot combo is really wearable and cute!  Congrats Meg, your use of #lazotrousers has won you $25 to Blackbird Fabrics.  Thanks for sharing!

I will draw the last Lazo Hack prize on Friday, Jan. 27th.  The winner will get to choose which goodies (from our shop) they would like me to fill this sewing caddy with – up to a $100 value!

You have 7 days to take a photo of your Lazos whether they are still a work in progress or finished and share them on Instagram or Facebook using #lazotrousers.

Download your Lazo pattern >

Happy New Year!  I’m getting right in to the swing of things on the blog today now that the busy holiday season is over.  It’s finally time for the Lazo Fitting post!  Sorry for the delay on this one.  I just couldn’t fit it in before my Christmas break.

I have included fit adjustments based on the feedback you gave me several blog posts ago.  If I missed a category or you didn’t have a chance to request a fit adjustment, shoot me a comment on this post so that I can try my best to provide you with some fitting help.

I have chosen the simplest solution for each fit problem so I hope this post won’t intimidate you!  Also, you will notice that a lot of my solutions use the Lazo’s unique style lines to help fit.  We will work with the waistband shape and also with the pleats to create a better fit when possible instead of performing more elaborate pattern manipulation.

Now, please, before we get started, please add a mock up (trial run) of the Lazo Trousers to your agenda!  All of these fitting suggestions are operating under the assumption that you have sewn a mock up using the size that best matches your hip circumference and a fabric that is fairly similar to the actual fabric you plan to use for your Lazos.  Once the mock up is sewn, you will be able to see how the Lazos fit you and you can pin them tighter where needed or cut them open where needed to get an idea of where you need to adjust the actual pattern pieces.  If you want to see this process in action, check out the photos that I took of Matt in his Fairfield Button-up mock up…he looked like Frankenstein but it was a great visual way to see where adjustments were needed!

Wide Hips

When choosing your Lazo Trousers size, I would recommend picking the size that matches your hip measurement most closely.  If your hips are proportionately wider than our fit model’s hip measurement, you will likely need to adjust the fit of your trousers at the waist.

Here is an example: Your hip circumference is 42 7/8″ so you choose to work with size 14.  Your waist measurement is only 29 7/8″ (which, is a size 10 for our Lazo Trousers).  Select the size 14 pattern and then adjust it to suit your other body measurements.

To bring the waist in to match your proportions, you can grade between sizes only on the waistband pieces.  The fullest part of the hip curve is positioned at the bottom edge of the waistband so you will need the bottom edge to remain the larger size to match your hips.  This makes it very easy to work with two sizes because you don’t need to worry about adjusting the pocket pieces!

Of course, your wide hips might sit higher or lower than the Lazo Trousers hip curve.  I would recommend making a mock up after grading between sizes.  Try on the mock up to see if there is any strain or bagging along the curve of the hips.  Adjust the shape of the curve accordingly.  Note that you will need to adjust the pocket facing and pocket to match your new curve.  I find it is easiest to do this by lining up the pieces how they will be sewn together (as I have done with the pocket facing in the image below), that way you can copy the hip curve on to the smaller pieces:

It is remarkably common to have two different shaped hips – you will notice that your mock up pulls on just one side of the body.  This is because we generally have a dominant leg that gets used more often – it develops more muscles and becomes bigger.  During the pant fitting class that I took a couple of summers ago, my classmates and I were surprised to find that the majority of us needed to adjust for a hip that was higher or larger than the other hip.  For most of us, it was our right hip.  To make the pants look symmetrical on an asymmetrical body, you can adjust one hip but not the other.  I don’t think I would do this unless the larger hip was very noticeably causing asymmetrical strain lines.

Crotch Depth is Too Long

As I mention within the instruction booklet, the Lazo Trousers feature a very closely fitted seat seam.  This creates a flattering, fitted appearance to balance out the roomy double pleats.  It is very likely that the crotch depth of our fit model will not match your crotch depth exactly.  Don’t ignore this because you may end up with uncomfortably tight trousers that try to give you a wedgie!

Measure your crotch depth as I illustrate in the booklet and then slash across your pattern pieces and spread them apart.  Adding crotch depth will ‘drop’ the crotch – a little adjustment goes a long way!  I recommend adjusting slightly less than you think you need in order to maintain the very fitted appearance of this seam.

It is important to adjust the crotch depth before adjusting for a full tummy, flat tummy, full bottom or flat bottom.  Changing the crotch depth will change all other pressure points because the pants will sit lower on the body (the crotch length is increased).  Make up a mock up before proceeding to the other fitting issues – you may find that they no longer exist!

Full Tummy

This is a very important adjustment for the Lazo Trousers because the contoured waistband fits snugly and the bottom of the waistband will likely sit against the fullest part of the tummy – you do not want this to be cutting in to you!  You want it to match the width and curve of your body.

If you are unsure whether you require a full tummy adjustment, circle a measuring tape around your waist (the narrowest point).  If you have a full tummy you will find that the measuring tape naturally wants to ride up at centre front and sit lower at centre back.  This is okay, of course!  Let the measuring tape do this when you measure your waist…just know that you will need to add more length to the front of your trousers so they have room to curve over your tummy.

Here is my preferred way to add a combination of length and width to accommodate a rounded stomach.  You will need to adjust the Waistband Front and the trousers Front.

Cut your pattern piece vertically down to the knee.  Turn your scissors 90 degrees and cut across the knee leaving a hinge at the side seam and the inseam.  Cut horizontally at the hip as well (at the bottom of the slash pocket).  Spread open to add as much width at the waist as needed.  Add the same amount of width to the waistband.

If you wish to avoid any fancy pattern manipulation, a very simple way to add some width to the Lazo Trousers front could be simply letting out one (or both) of the pleats!  You would need to add width to the waistband accordingly.  If you only sew one pleat on each pant leg, you would add 3/4″ to the waistband (for an extra 1 1/2″ overall).  If you do not sew any of the pleats you would need to add 1 1/2″ to the waistband (for an extra 3″ overall…a very large adjustment!).

If you do not need the extra width at the top of the waistband because you have a narrow waist, you could add width in a wedge shape instead of spreading them apart evenly.  The wedge would tapers to less or nothing at the top of the waistband.

Flat Bottom

There are no darts on the Lazo Trousers since the shaping needed for the curve of your bottom is built in to the waistband seam.  If you have a flat bottom you will likely notice two fit issues when you sew a mock up:

1. The waistband appears to be wrinkled and sagging because it provides too much room for your bottom.
2. There are folds of fabric below your bottom at the back of your legs – this is because the back of the pants are too long since they do not have to curve over a round bottom.

These two issues mean that the trousers do not need as much width or length to curve across your bottom horizontally or vertically.

Try adjusting the curve of the waistband.  I show you how to adjust the curve in the instruction booklet to suit a full bottom in the last illustration within the “Fitting the Waistband” section.  The adjustment needed for a flat bottom is the opposite.

This is equivalent to making shallower darts.  You will likely need to decrease the width of the trousers slightly since your straightened waistband seam is shorter than the original curve.

Now that the Lazo seat has been made flatter to suit your bottom, you will probably still need to reduce the length of the seat seam only on the back pattern piece.  This will get rid of the fabric that pools just below your bottom.  This adjustment is quite easy!  Just cut in to the Back pattern piece somewhere near the middle of the seat seat seam and leave a little paper ‘hinge’ near the side seam.  Using the hinge, overlap the paper so that you remove the excess length.  You will likely only need to overlap 1/2″ or so.

Full Tummy paired with Flat Bottom

Okay, this might seam a bit repetitive, but this combination of fit adjustments is very common so it is worth giving a category of its own so that you can recognise the problem and then head for the correct solution.

You will notice, if you sew a mock up of the Lazo Trousers, that there is excess fabric pooling around your bottom while there are diagonal wrinkle lines over your crotch…it may feel a bit intimidating to be faced with trousers that are too tight and too loose simultaneously!  To top it off, your side seams will not fall straight since they are being pulled towards the front.  Don’t worry, all of these issues stem from the fact that the crotch curve does not fit your body. – you need to add length to the front to accommodate your lower tummy and you need to remove length from the back since the trousers do not need to curve much over your bottom.  Perform the previous two adjustments!

Full Bottom

The Lazo Trousers are drafted to fit a figure with a fairly full bottom in relation to the waist measurement (an hourglass figure).  All the same, if you make a mock up and notice that there is strain across the widest point of your bottom (or, maybe you notice that fabric is pooling directly above the widest point of your bottom), you might like to give yourself a little more room.  If the strain is near the waistband seam, you can create more room by exaggerating the curve of the waistband (as I illustrate in the instruction booklet).  Exaggerating this curve will simultaneously add a little more width (the seam becomes longer) and more shaping.  You will likely need to add more width to the pants back as well so that they can be easily sewn to this longer waistband seam.

If the widest part of your seat falls below the waistband seam or if a fairly large adjustment is needed, you will likely want to add more length to the seat seam by adding a wedge at centre back in addition to addition to the extra width.  Just as I described for the Flat Bottom adjustment, slash across the back pattern piece and leave a “hinge” at the side seam.  This time, spread the slash apart and redraw the seat seam curve smoothly.

Straight Figure

Someone with a straight figure will likely find that, when they choose their size based on their hip measurement, the waistband is too small for them.  This is because they do not have a tapered waist.  You can make small adjustments to the way the waist tapers by adjusting the side seams within the 5/8″ seam allowances so that they are much more straight.

You might like to change the style of the waistband to better suit your figure.  I would recommend reducing the height of the waistband by at least 1″ or possibly even 2″ so that the pants are mid-rise instead of high rise.  If you prefer not to highlight your waist, you will find this rise much more flattering!

Full Thighs

The Lazo Trousers are drafted to have very roomy thighs (due to the double pleats) so I don’t anticipate you will feel any strain across the thighs when you sew a mock up.  There were a few requests for this adjustment though, so here it is in case you need it!  If the pant legs are too tight at the thigh you will notice horizontal or diaganol wrinkles across the legs just below the crotch.  You will also notice strain at the bottom of the slash pocket.  Add more room only on the pants Front pattern piece since a large thigh is caused by a very developed muscle on the front of the leg.

Add the room by extending the crotch at the inseam.  If your adjustment is fairly large it might be necessary to lower the center front waist to remove the length that unfortunately has to be added to the crotch while you are adding width.  You probably won’t need to do this though – wait until you’ve sewn another mock up to see if the front crotch seam has become pouchy and too long.  Here is a PDF from Sew News magazine that includes a very succinct description of this whole adjustment…in case you need a second opinion!

Full Calves

Since the Lazo Trousers feature tapered legs and since the cropped variation includes wide cuffs, you will need to ensure there is enough room for your calves.  You can compare the pattern pieces (minus 5/8″ seam allowances) with a comfortable pair of pants that have no stretch and a bit of roominess across the calves.  Or you can sew a mock-up of the pattern as is (while working on other fit adjustments) and note if the knees or calves feel restricted when you bend your leg or flex your muscles.  To add width, simply redraw the side seams and inseams from just above the knee downwards.  Decrease the amount of tapering.

Adjusting the side seams by hand allows you to shape the trousers how you feel they will be most flattering. Make sure to add an even amount of width to the front and back, inseam and side seam so that you don’t end up with wonky twisted legs!  You can avoid having to draw new seamlines by hand slashing the pattern and pivoting.  This is more complicated but can be a great way to ensure your side seams remain even and straight.  You can view an excellent interpretation of this adjustment (along with loads of other useful pants fitting tricks in this post on the Closet Case Files blog).

Oh, and if you are sewing the cropped variation, don’t forget that you will need to add width to the Cuff piece as well!

Whew!  Did I miss anything?  Keep in mind that these suggestions are simply my preferred approach to fitting and that there are MANY ways of going about fitting!  Google your fit problem using this wording: _______ _______ Adjustment (i.e. Full Hip Adjustment, Flat Seat Adjustment).  You will find all manner of excellent tutorials!

Let’s close for tonight by drawing the first Lazo Hack contest winner!

I’m pleased to announce that Robynne (@adelajoy) is the winner of a $50 (US) gift card to Stylemaker Fabrics!  Congratulations and thanks for playing along!  Here is her lovely sketch of a nautical pair of shorts inspired by the Lazo Trousers pattern.

She posted this entry on Instagram using #lazotrousers.

We still have three weeks of prizes to draw.  Email me at info@threadtheory.ca, or use #lazotrousers on Instragram or Facebook to enter the contest.  Simply share your plans for working on the Lazos or your finished Lazo masterpiece.

The next draw will be on Friday, January 13th.  Enter as many times as you want for a chance to win your choice of any 3 Thread Theory PDF patterns.  Which patterns are on your wishlist?

It was lots of fun yesterday to receive all of your emails, blog comments and Instagram comments about our Lazo Trousers release!  As always, thank you so much for letting me know how excited you are to sew our patterns and also for asking all manner of questions before you delve in.  Your questions are helping me to direct my upcoming posts about the Lazos…so keep them coming!  Today I’m going to answer what is always the most pressing question when we launch a pattern: What fabric should I use?

The Lazos are a bit of a wild card when it comes to styling.  Depending on your fabric choice they can appear dressy, casual, cozy, or even a touch rugged.  Over the last few years I’ve sewn airy versions that are best for the hottest days of summer.  This is my favourite summery version in tencel (I added a big statement bow to the waist).  Of all my versions, I really cant beat these ones for comfort!

My sweatpant version was a close contender though! I hacked the Lazos while I was in school to create heather grey sweatpants with a satin ribbon draw string (that’s the only pair I’ve actually worn out…I guess that says something about my dressing habits!).  A sweatpant hack will be on the blog in January as part of our Lazo Hack contest!

I’ve also created some active wear cropped Lazos that were intended for summer hiking using a poly twill.  Photos of these will be on the blog soon (once Matt has had a chance to photograph me).

Lastly, of course, you can’t beat the classic ‘work’ trousers in a wool blend suiting:

Can you see what I mean about the pattern being a wild card?

So, when you ask what sort of fabric you should use…the answer is not a quick one!  Let’s dig in:

Within the instruction booklet I recommend the following:

Light to medium weight fabrics that drape nicely. These trousers are especially comfortable if the fabric contains a small percentage of spandex for stretch.  Keep in mind that the pleats will look best if you choose a fabric that presses crisply. Great choices include suiting fabrics, tencel or rayons, crepe de chine and peach skin.  Self fabric or light weight wovens can be used for the waistband facing. Pocketing or tightly woven cotton can be used for the pocket lining.

The main information to take from this paragraph is the recommended weight, drape, stretch, and pressing ease of the fabric.  I’ll elaborate on these criteria without actually naming any types of fabric.  That way you can get a deeper understanding of what properties you are looking for.  If you’re excited to get shopping and just want some actual fabric options, scroll down to find them near the end of this post!

Weight

Most trouser patterns call for mid to heavy weight fabrics but the Lazo Trousers do not.  If anything, I recommend choosing something on the lighter side!  The reason I recommend light to medium weight fabrics is because there is a considerable amount of fabric situated across the belly and thighs – there are pockets, pleats, and an overlapping wide waistband all in one small area!  Using a lighter weight fabric, regardless of its ability to press or drape, will help to ensure that the Lazos do not look bulky across the lower tummy and upper thighs.  A light to medium weight fabric is more likely to sit close to the skin softly rather than fold and buckle rigidly.  Lastly, a light weight fabric matches the look and feel of a super comfortable full gathered maxi skirt that was my inspiration for this design.

If you want to experiment and choose a heavier weight fabric, make sure that it drapes very nicely – it will work best if it is loosely woven and soft.  This raw silk version of the Lazos is the thickest fabric I have used but it is very light and soft because it is loosely woven.  The waistband is fairly bulky and, I think, looks best with an un-tucked shirt as a result.

Drape

In my opinion, soft drape (sometimes called ‘good drape’) is the most important criteria for the Lazo Trousers.  As my instructor always said in design school, drape is a deceivingly tricky thing to quantify and understand.  Essentially, drape is the way a fabric hangs on the body.  There is a very informative blog post about drape on the blog “Cucicucicoo”.  Lisa has included an excellent selection of pictures showing ‘good’ drape fabrics vs. “low” drape fabrics.  Here is an example from her post:

I think the Lazos look consistently best, regardless of fabric type, when the fabric wants to form itself to the body’s shape and fall fluidly towards the ground.  Choosing a fabric with soft drape will encourage the pleats to sit closely against the legs, ensure the waistband looks smooth and perfectly formed to the curve of the waist, and allow the legs to remain smooth and crease-free.

If you are feeling like experimenting, I would love for you to prove me wrong about drape!  The only Lazos I have sewn with a stiff, rigid fabric are the cotton muslin samples that I sewed while developing the pattern!  I imagined the design to be soft and fluid so I was never inclined to sew structured trousers. If you end up sewing with a stiffer fabric, be prepared to accept some wrinkles after sitting and a bit of volume from the pleats (this isn’t necessarily a bad thing depending on the look you are going for!  Maybe your going for the chic 1920’s look featuring voluminous jodhpurs?).

(Source: The Maryland Historical Society)

Stretch

The Lazo Trousers are designed for fabrics with no stretch but that doesn’t mean you need to avoid stretchy fabrics!  Sew them in a fabric with a little bit or spandex or even in a very stable knit!  Many suiting fabrics and bottom weight fabrics contain about 6% spandex these days – these would result in a very comfortable pair of Lazos!  The waistband is very closely fitted so you will not need to size down to accommodate for stretch.

With some modifications to the pattern, a stable ponte de roma or sweatshirt fleece make for creat Lazos (the sweatpant hack I was mentioning).  Don’t try to sew the waistband as drafted (without my upcoming mods) in a knit fabric though – there wouldn’t be enough structure for the centre front overlap to look nice and crisp.  You could try sewing a woven waistband and cotton legs though!  Oooh, that would be comfortable!

Press Crisply

I encourage you to choose a fabric that presses nicely so that your pleats look crisp and professional.  At the same time, you will probably want to avoid fabrics that wrinkle exceptionally quickly since the loose legs may become creased when you sit down.  Some gentle creasing (just as you will notice on most wide leg trousers) is just fine…but you don’t want to choose fabrics that crease at the slightest provocation.  Test a fabric by bunching it up in your fist and letting it warm in your closed hand.  Release the bunch and examine it to see if it falls flat or if it remains a crumpled ball.  If the fabric does not remain entirely smooth but only has light creasing, it will still work for the Lazos!

Now that you’ve read my reasoning, here are my top fabric picks for the Lazos.

Tencel

I cannot recommend Tencel enough for the Lazos.  Indeed, I designed the Lazos with this specific moss green fabric already purchased and sitting happily in my fabric stash (it was fueling my imagination!).  My favourite source for Tencel is Blackbird Fabrics, an online fabric shop based out of Vancouver.  Caroline currently has two weights stocked in her shop – both would be excellent choices for the Lazo.  The above green version is similar to her lighter weight option (though I purchased the green fabric from a shop near my school years ago).

Here is a navy blue Tencel that she currently has in stock:

She describes this as a twill with a unique brushed surface and suede like texture.  It has very good drape and just enough body to hide bumps that you don’t want to show.

I have just finished sewing myself a pair of Christmas Lazos in Blackbird Fabric’s slightly heavier tencel twill.  They are dreamy!  The twill weave is a bit more pronounced with this fabric.  I look forward to showing my Christmas outfit to you in a future post!

There are quite a few beautiful colors (in both weights) within the Blackbird Fabrics online shop.  I am tempted by the camel color for my next pair!

Suiting

If you plan to sew the Lazos in a suiting material, be aware that there are MANY suiting fabric styles with all manner of properties.  Not all of them will work well!  Make sure to choose a light weight suiting that drapes well.  To give you an idea of what I mean: It should be thin enough and soft enough that you would need to add a LOT of interfacing and structure if you were to use it for a blazer.  Stylemaker Fabrics (an online shop based in the US) is an excellent online source for beautiful yet affordable suitings. Here are my top 3 picks!

Pick one is a solid brown stretch suiting featuring polyester, rayon and lycra.  The polyester would make this fabric hard wearing, the rayon would allow the fabric to drape softly, and the lycra would make for a super comfortable waistband!  The brown is a nice versatile colour.  The other solid is a rayon and lycra stretch twill in wine.  The rich colour paired with the beautiful drape of rayon would make for a very dressy pair of trousers.  My third pick is this statement Shepherd’s Check!  It features polyester and rayon (so there is no stretch).

I had actually purchased this fabric to make a pair of Lazos inspired by English riding attire but it got swallowed in my fabric stash and I just recently unearthed it to create a vest for Matt (the first sample of a future menswear pattern!)!  If I wasn’t told that it has no wool in it, I would never believe it!  It feels luxurious and high quality.

I have a bit of (likely) unwanted advice for you…You may have noticed that I have not featured any wool suitings.  I am a huge wool enthusiast so, if you are too and can source lovely light weight wools, please go ahead and cut into your bounty to create some Lazos!  Before you go crazy trying to find the right wool (I have a hard time sourcing nice light wools), consider this:  If you like your clothes to wear well without much special treatment, choose a polyester blend suiting.  I know many sewists steer clear of poly blends in favour of pure wool, but this is a situation where a bit of polyester will be very beneficial!  A wool or rayon and poly blend is a good choice for trousers because it withstands abrasion and remains looking new (without special care) for longer than pure wool.  Even more important for the Lazos:  Wool/poly blends generally drape better than pure wool suiting materials.  An added bonus is that blended suitings are generally very easy to source and are quite affordable!

Bottom Weight Fabrics with Texture

My last fabric category to discuss today is a grab bag…really this category is just a mish mash of all my crazy ideas to help you ignite ideas of your own.  I have found that the Lazo Trousers are a great canvas for light weight fabrics with unusual textures!  As long as you can ensure the fabric has the weight and drape we have discussed, why not try rich velvet, adventurous faux suede, airy rayon crepe or matte peachskin?

All fabrics from Stylemaker. Top to Bottom, Left to Right: Faux Suede, Jacquard, Peachskin, Metallic Rayon Crepe, Chevron Rayon Crepe, Bold Rayon Crepe, Cranberry Stretch Velvet

These options are untested by me but I think, based on my experimenting over the last few years, they could be stunners!  The rayon crepes would create summery Lazos similar to my Tencel versions.  The Faux Suede would definitely create that safari look that I mentioned!  I purchased the black Jacquard to make myself a pair of Lazos…it remains languishing in my stash but it will emerge one day!  It has the lowest drape of all these choices and would definitely create voluminous pleats.  I think this would result in a great silhouette for New Year’s parties!  Last, but certainly not least, the stretch velvet is beckoning to me…how about you?  Of course, the pleats would not press well and working with velvet would require some careful forethought…I think I would convert the double pleats to one large pleat on each side of the fly and leave the folds unpressed so as not to crush the velvet.  I would also add a lot of interfacing to the waistband and cut the waistband facing from a thin cotton to add structure.

I hope I have your creative juices flowing!  Send me a link or a photo of the fabric you are considering and I will give you my opinion :).

Next week I will be sharing my inspiration and styling photos on the blog.  That should be a fun post!

To close for tonight, I want to remind you of the Lazo Hack contest!  It will run the rest of December and all of January.  I had intended to explain it further in this blog post but this has become rather long…stay tuned for a small post of it’s own next week.

Christmas is quickly approaching so this will be my 2nd to last post about the Lazos before a short holiday.  I will be posting about some Christmassy Lazo outfits on Friday and then will be taking a break from blogging until January 2nd.  We will be kicking off the New Year with all the fitting posts, tutorials and Lazo Hacks that I have been promising to you! Today’s post is meant to get your creative juices flowing before you have a chance to cut into your Lazo Trousers fabric.  I imagine many of us will be too busy spending time with family until the end of the month to actually delve in to sewing something for ourselves – that’s no problem!  It just gives you more time to daydream about your creations and post about your pattern hack ideas!

As you are aware, I am hosting a Lazo Hack contest that runs until the end of January.  I will be awarding prizes at random until January 31st so the more often and sooner you enter, the higher your chance of winning a prize!  Prizes will include digital gift certificates to a great selection of sewing shops and all sorts of goodies that will be mailed to you (worldwide!).  Yes…some of our gorgeous Merchant & Mills tools and books will be given away as prizes!

To enter the contest, draw a sketch, share an inspiring photo, take a snap shot of the supplies you’ve gathered, post your WIP, create a tutorial, or share a photo of your finished Lazos!  Use #lazotrousers on Instagram or Facebook or email me at info@threadtheory.ca with your images.

The contest is meant to inspire creative interpretations of our Lazo Trousers pattern – meaning you could alter the pattern to suit a figure other than the recommended hourglass shape, you could change the pleats to gathers, you could add width to the legs, or you could even just sew the pattern as is but style it differently than I have done!  Anything is fair game!

You don’t need to actually sew your Lazo Hack idea – you could post sketches of a dozen ideas and then pick your favourite to sew.  The more entries, the merrier!

I will be contributing to the Lazo Hack contest by hacking the Lazos into the comfiest and prettiest sweatpants featuring a mock fly, a drawstring waistband, and deliciously cozy terry knit fabric.  Stay tuned for a tutorial to create this in January!

Now that you know the details about the Lazo Hack contest, here are some of the inspiration photos that I gathered before drafting the Lazo Trousers in school:

The image on the left is a sketch that I made for my Lazo Trousers design.  Sorry for her creepy blank stare – we were told to turn our sketch into a vector (so it could be coloured in digitally on the computer) and I discovered that this is NOT something I excelled at naturally!  All of the other images come from a Pinterest Board that I have created for the Lazos.  Click on any of the collages in this post to link to the Pinterest board.  Unfortunately, I believe you need a Pinterest account (which is free) to view the board but I’ve displayed most of my inspiration in this post for you to view anyways!

As you can see from the five images of modern store bought trousers, I was taken with the idea of a loose, pleated front with stovepipe legs.  I noticed, as I was selecting images, that I always preferred the overall silhouette of trousers that sat at the natural waist (instead of the hips).  This was a bit of an epiphany for me since, prior to creating an inspiration board, I was sure I preferred very low rise trousers!

Next up, we have these tiny skirt and palazzo trouser images above.  They come from Pinterest…which is a great source of inspiration and an exellent way to organize thoughts but it can be hard to find high quality images or original sources! A fitted waistband with a full skirt attached (a dirndl skirt) is my most comfortable silhoutte…but I find I can never wear it because all that fabric is not very practical for dog walking, bike riding, and generally living actively.  The free feeling of wearing one of these skirts or palazzo pants paired with the practicality of trousers = my goal for the Lazo Trousers.

The fashion line that I created while in school was called ‘Rationed Fashion’ and it was inspired by British women’s fashion during the second world war.  Rationing led to an appreciation of hard wearing fabrics.  Women had to select their clothing to suit their new jobs (and often wore uniforms for their work).  Design details were subtle and functional so that the garments would remain wearable for many years.  I hadn’t watched the show Land Girls yet when I designed the Lazo Trousers but, the Land Girls uniform was exactly what I had in mind (second image from the right, above).  As you can see in the photos above, jodhpurs or breeches have often been a working or adventuring woman’s go-to pair of trousers in the last 100 years.  They were popular for aviators and equestrian women in the 1910s and 1920s.  They were a staple of wartime working women in the 1940s.  And there have been periods throughout the 1970s and 80s when trousers with fitted waists, roomy thighs, and fitted calves were in vogue.  It is a functional style because it allows full range of movement without excess fabric getting in the way.

The wide Lazo Trouser waistband and slash pockets provide a great blank canvas for small design details.  Leather or vinyl buckles are my go to choice but you can also feature self fabric buckles, statement buttons, self fabric covered buttons, or even those beautiful frog closures that are always in fabric stores but rarely get used!

Quite a few of you have shared your ideas for the Lazos with me so far (not as contest entries, but instead as comments…you guys should sketch your ideas and submit them as contest entries!).  There are many people planning to make safari style Lazos and there are a couple of you planning to cut in to tartan wool and use kilt buckles.  And a number of you want to add width to the legs to create elegant palazzo pants.  I’m so excited to see your creations!

Download the Lazo Trousers >

Check out my Lazo Trousers Pinterest Board >