Sew-along with us!
Perhaps you'd like some company while you sew? We've sewn up each of our patterns and photographed each step along the way. Find the pattern you're after in the filter drop down below left.
Sew-Alongs
Fairfield Button-up Sew-Along: Day 14 - The Parade
Today I want to show you an inspiring selection of Fairfield Button-up Shirts sewn by you as well as the finished Ikat Fairfield that I sewed during our sew-along.
Matt really loves this print and I think the indigo blue looks lovely with his brownish/blue eyes.
I’m really happy with the casual look that the contrast Tagua Nut buttons gave to the shirt. The amber color looks very summery against the blue – like the sun against a blue sky!
I decided to sew the buttons on by forming a cross with my shirt to echo the print of the fabric (usually I sew two horizontal lines when working with four hole buttons…sort of like train tracks). I’m not sure if this echoing of the motif is too subtle that it is virtually unnoticeable. I notice it though!
Matt really likes how the print placement worked out on the back yoke. I’m glad I decided against placing the yoke on the bias. I think the print was just a bit too large in scale for this cutting technique to have been effective. I’m pretty pleased that the print matches along the collar and yoke at center back!
With all the shirt sewing that I’ve been doing lately, Matt’s closet is beginning to look quite fresh and full! I have been choosing his fabrics with a general theme of “blue and bright” since last winter his wardrobe had become almost exclusively dull brown and olive green. The influx of a few bright colored items has made a huge difference! I might do a photo shoot of his new shirt wardrobe soon – all of the prints and colors look really nice together.
Now, the best part of this blog post – it’s time to show off your Fairfield Shirts!
_ym.sews_ achieved beautifully crisp cuffs and excellent print placement for her plaid Fairfield. I love the careful use of contrast fabric for the cuff facing, collar stand and yoke facing!
tiny_needles whipped up this Fairfield so quickly! It was the first Fairfield Button-up that I saw in the wild after our pattern release. Her boyfriend wore this very dapper shirt for their anniversary celebrations.
One of our test sewers, Sarah, sewed this fresh and summery Fairfield for her husband. I like how the sleeve tabs add such versatility to this shirt. With the sleeves full length it looks very dressy but with the sleeves rolled up it takes on an airy and comfortable vibe that could easily work with brightly colored shorts!
After completing her first Fairfield Button-up, Sarah immediately cut out another one – this time for her brother! She had a lot of fun playing around with the stripes (she added a seam down center back) and she added some hidden froggy details. Isn’t the frog peaking out of the front pocket such a great idea?! She added a lining to the pocket to achieve this detail.
These three Fairfields have been sewn by bego_aguilera_caballero, Ana, and sewing_dutch. The whimsical print on Begoña’s shirt is just lovely (especially with those dreamy houseplants as a backdrop). Ana sewed the band collar (available in our Alternate Collars free download) on her green linen shirt. The band collar and linen are a match made in heaven! Lastly, the subtle floral yoke adds such hanger appeal to Becca’s shirt. She also sewed a striped grosgrain ribbon down the right front of her shirt which adds structure (for stronger buttons) and the perfect contrast if the top button is left undone.
And last, here is a great example by scaredstitchless of how much fun you can have when sewing a wearable mock-up! Quilting cottons provide a limitless palette of bold colors and unique prints. I’m impressed that she managed to find perfectly matched orange buttons!
Thank you, everyone, for joining me on the Fairfield Sew-along and for sharing your Fairfield photos by emailing me or by using #fairfieldbuttonup ! It’s been a thrill to see how smart your shirts look. If anyone has wrapped up their shirt to give on Father’s Day, I look forward to hearing about the grand reveal!
Jedediah Sew-Along | Getting Started
- Preparations - Fabric Requirements, Garment, and Body Measurements making bias binding from a vintage handkerchief
- Lengthening or Shortening a Sewing Pattern Tutorial - Learn how to adjust the length of the Jedediah Pants before cutting them into your fabric
- Grading to Create a Custom Fit Tutorial - If the body measurements given aren't a perfect match, consider grading to create a custom fit!
The Jedediah Pants Sew-Along will be separated into 5 segments for easy to follow, step-by-step images, and tutorials:
2. Finishing seams using bias binding and the flat felled seam method (back yoke, inseams, and side seams)
For inspiration check out #Jedediahpants on Instagram and our community Pinterest board
Jedediah Sew-Along | Front and back pockets
Jedediah Sew-Along | Finishing seams (back yoke, inseams, and side seams)
- Front pant
- Back pant
- Back yoke
- Scissors
- Bias binding (optional)
Jedediah Sew-Along | Sewing a fly zipper
- Zipper
- Zipper shield
- Scissors
- Fusible tape (optional)
- Marking pen and ruler
Double-check that all markings are transferred from your pattern to your front pant legs at the center front and the waist edge.
Finish the crotch seams and fly facing edges before you sew up the seat seam. Options include serging, zig-zagging, or binding.
Tip: If you are using a bulkier material you may want to avoid using binding for the seat seam — this is a better treatment for lighter weight pant fabrics.
Serging or zig-zagging the entire seam and then strengthening the seam using topstitching (this step is included later on in the instructions) will create a stronger and less bulky finish for these close-fitting pants.
Stitch until 1/2" (1.3 cm) below the zipper placement mark at the center front. Check that your seams line up nicely and reinforce this seam by stitching over it one or two more times (this is an area that needs to be very strong). Refrain from pressing this seam until you are finished sewing your fly.
The Left Front (if you were wearing the pants) will act as the TOP, the most visible part of the fly. Fold and press the left front fly extension to the wrong side at the notch FURTHEST from the curved fly facing edge.
With the right sides together, line up the right-hand side of the zipper tape with the finished edge of the LEFT FRONT fly extension. Use a zipper foot to stitch the zipper to the FLY EXTENSION ONLY. Make one line of stitching close to the zipper teeth, then make another closer to the edge of the zipper tape.
Jedediah Sew-Along | Belt loops and waistband
- Belt loops
- Waistband + waistband interfacing
- Bias binding (optional)
- Pants
- Button
- Seam ripper or buttonhole making tool
- Press under one long edge to the wrong side at 3/8" (1 cm).
- Finish one long edge with a serge or zig-zag stitch
Apply binding to the other long waistband edge.
Pin both layers of the waistband in place with the inner waistband lying unfolded from the stitched corner onwards (as shown). From the right side of the pants, topstitch along the lower edge of the waistband.
Flip the belt loop up and loosely curl the top edge under 1/4" (0.6 cm).
Jedediah Sew-Along | Hem and cuffs
Stitch 1/8" (0.3 cm) away from the folded hem edge.
If you are sewing the Pants Variation you are DONE! Give your garment a final press and your pants are ready to wear!
Your shorts are DONE! Give them a final press and they are ready to wear!
Mahle Tie Sew-Along
• 1 yard (1.1 meters) of sew-in wool or wool/nylon blend interlining
• Silk thread
• Hand sewing needle
• Microtex or fine point sewing machine needle (for sewing silk or rayon fabric)
• Beeswax
• OPTIONAL FOR QUILTING COTTON OR SIMILAR FABRICS: 1/4 yard (0.2 m) lightweight interfacing or canvas lining
• OPTIONAL: Source your interlining materials from a vintage tie. To do this, carefully take the tie apart by ripping out the center seam. Gut the tie, trim the interlining and canvas pieces to size, and then use them as the inner material for your tie.
Stitch, using a 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance, along the outer and diagonal edges towards the blade tip lining point, stopping 1/4" (0.6 cm) from the point.
Pin. An intentional bubble will form on the blade because it is wider than the blade tip lining.
Push the bubble out of the way so it stays at the point and doesn’t get stuck in the outer and diagonal edges. To make sure you don't accidentally sew the bubble, sew with the lining side up.
Stitch, again with a 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance, along the outer and diagonal edges together towards the tie point. Your stitch line will match up with the previous stitch line.
Stitch across the blade point bubble using a 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance. The stitch will end up being perpendicular to the diagonal stitch lines. Start by placing your sewing needle down in the center of the stitch line, leaving the bobbin and needle thread tails long and towards the back of your sewing machine. Gently pull on the thread tails when you start stitching. Stitch forward first until your stitches match the lining stitch lines. Then, backstitch off of the fabric. Tie the thread tails together to secure the stitch.
Fold the keeper loop in half once more aligning the long folded edges. Press. Edgestitch along the folded edges at a scant 1/4" (0.6 cm) seam allowance.
Insert the keeper loop into the blade opening at the measured point. Stitch the short edges of the keeper loop to the blade seam allowance, stitching within the blade seam allowance.
Cut a long strand of thread so that you can sew the seam together in one go. This will help to keep the natural fluidity of the finished tie. Run your thread through beeswax to prevent your thread from knotting up while sewing.
Begin at the tail end by backstitching a few times to anchor your thread. Sew along the seam creating long and loose slip stitches, about 1/2" (1.3 cm) apart. Be very careful that you are only sewing the seam together and not stitching into the tie front.
Press the keeper loop open so that it is flat and centered over the tie seam.
Using your hand sewing needle and silk thread tack the short folded edges of the keeper loop to the back of the tie, being careful not to stitch through to the tie front.
Timberland Henley Sew-Along: Neckband, Sleeves, Hem
Timberland Henley Sew-Along: Placket #1
Timberland Henley Sew-Along: Pocket and Placket #2
Timberland Henley Sew-Along Day 1: Gathering Materials
The Timberland Henley, the newest member of our Parkland Collection and women's version of the Strathcona Henley, is a casual everyday wear garment to add to your wardrobe. This pattern comes in two variations, has a scoop neckline, and a curved hem that is lower in the back. You can choose between long or short sleeves, chest pockets, or add a Henley placket to the front neckline. In our sew-along, we will go over detailed instructions on how to assemble a Henley placket in two ways.
To begin, pick which variation you would like to make. Then, pick your size.
Please refer to your instruction booklet on how to take your measurements and determine which size works best for you. You can also refer to our Woodley Tee Sew-along where we go into similar detail on which measurements to account for, and which ones you can adjust on the pattern.
If you need to lengthen or shorten the pattern, it is very important to use our lengthen/shorten lines provided on the front and back pattern pieces. Due to the curvature of the hemline, it is best to make adjustments at the lengthen/shorten lines to keep the correct shape of the hem.
Fabric
When choosing fabric for your Timberland Henley, we highly suggest picking out a cozy light to medium-weight knit fabric that will soften over time. A medium-weight knit will be easier to sew with, especially if you are planning to make the Henley placket detail. A lightweight knit fabric may be a little trickier to sew with but could make for a perfect summer lounge tee. If you are not sure what type of fabric to look for, think of your favorite t-shirt that you already own and check the fabric weight and content.
When designing the Timberland Henley, we had a vision of a traditional Henley shirt made in waffle knit fabric that could be a great stand-alone or layering piece. Waffle knit fabrics tend to be more available in cooler weather seasons. For our photo sample, we used a waffle knit from Blackbird Fabrics that unfortunately sold out quickly. We hope they bring it back for next fall/winter ;)
Here are some recommendations for online stores that are currently carrying waffle knit fabrics:
Organic cotton waffle knit from I See Fabric
Cotton/spandex waffle knit from Style Maker Fabrics
Here are some non-waffle knit fabrics that are also great for creating the Timberland T-shirt variation:
Hemp/organic cotton jersey knit from Blackbird Fabrics
Mid-weight cotton jersey from Style Maker Fabrics
Some fun bold stripe cotton interlock fabric from Blackbird Fabrics
Optional: Use a matching or contrast ribbing for the neckband of your Timberland Henley or t-shirt. Check your favorite fabric store for their rotating stock on ribbing fabrics. Pictured here is ribbing from Blackbird Fabrics
The only hardware needed for the Timberland Henley is snaps or buttons for the placket variation. You can choose to use sew-on snaps, set-in snaps, or buttons.
Getting Started:
Before our next installment of the Timberland Henley Sew-along refer to our previous tutorials and posts about helpful tips to set up your sewing machine, get your sewing space ready, and how to cut out your pattern pieces from knit fabric:
Check out these tools and accessories from our Haberdashery that could help create your Timberland Henley:
